so i came to the conculsion that i need new needle and seats for my carb. But i'm not 100% sure on which are the needle and seats. And how to change them. I know the needle should just screw out and i should count the turns but how do i get to the seats and whatnot? I have a picture and if you could tell me what number is the needle and seat and tell me what to do that would be great.
Just because your 15 who says you can't RIDE???
Dad had new ones of those installed on his Lynx at the beginning of this season. We just brought it in and had Suzuki do it all for us. It's not expensive, but you don't learn anything yourself by getting someone else to do it for ya. Me... I'm fuel injected... and although I have a '74 Ford that's carburated... it will not always be that way.
Also can i hae like any place do it i mean the closest polaris dealer is 30 mins away. The sled is also a 97 600 xlt. Or can i bring it to this yamaha dealer and have them put it in? And about how much would it cost?
Just because your 15 who says you can't RIDE???
... dad had full servicing, so everything was greased, tuned up, and on top of it all the carbs had new needle and seat installed. It came to $140 for all of it, counting taxes, shop supplies (the needle and seat) and labor. He ended up spending more than that though, because they overlooked two springs that had to be replaced, so he managed to get those himself and they installed them for free because it was something they were supposed to check in the first place as part of the servicing.
It was the first... and possibly last... time we used Suzuki to check a snowmobile for us. Dad knew one of the sales reps... neither of us knew if he was the person who would be doing the work. We're Suzuki fans... well... thanks to Dad we're Suzuki fans.
Anyone should be able to do it for ya... but remember if it's not Polaris you're getting the servicing from, odds are the parts are being ordered from your Polaris shop and then shipped to the place you're getting the servicing done anyway. So you're probably better off sticking with your Polaris dealership, even if it's half an hour away? I dunno... :dazed:
You need to remove the float levers (#32) by sliding out the pin (#33) holding them. You'll need a 10mm (I think) socket to remove the seat. (The needle will simply drop out.) That needle should have a synthetic tip which doesn't show much wear. Inspect it. If you can't see a problem, unscrew the seat and check to see if there is something in the hole that prevents the needle from seating. It's a simple task. Just getting the carbs off is much more work. I wouldn't be surprised if you just have some crud in the seat.
Those early 600's had an all-metal needle/seat that tended to wear out in a short time. The new one will have the viton tipped needle and will last a long time. Replacement is fairly easy but remember to readjust the lever to control float height. Set it level with the bottom of the carb when held upside down with no pressure on the lever. A good idea is to replace all the black rubber fuel line with newer urethane hose. It's the hose particles that wear the needle over time.
Those early 600's had an all-metal needle/seat that tended to wear out in a short time. The new one will have the viton tipped needle and will last a long time. Replacement is fairly easy but remember to readjust the lever to control float height. Set it level with the bottom of the carb when held upside down with no pressure on the lever. A good idea is to replace all the black rubber fuel line with newer urethane hose. It's the hose particles that wear the needle over time.[/b]
Interesting...it seems like normally the high end rigs get the good stuff first. Some of the fans from that year had the viton tipped needles standard.
Hose particles? Wear? All the metal ones I've seen have been grooved where the needle bears against the seat. Can you elaborate on the particle wear thought? I just kind of figured it was normal for metal to wear over time when two pieces get pounded together long enough.
So do i have to take the carbs off? How do i get the bowl off to , too get to them? Also how do i set the float right and what not?[/b]
You'll have to pull the carb, probably removing the airbox first. Loosen the ring clamp which secures the carb to the adapter mount. There are four screws on the bowl of the carb. Remove them and you're into the good stuff. (Make sure you either drain the carb first or have a rag to catch the gas when you remove the bowl.)
You might want to check all three rubber adapters when you are in there. Check for cracks. If there are considerable, change them. Air leaks there will cause a lean condition and likely burn down.