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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-27-2007, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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I finally got my old helix apart and am installing an EPI clutch kit on an mxz 670. I was wondering I already put it together quite possibly wrong and when I installed the new helix it snapped all the ramps. What direction do I preload the clutch? Also I just ordered the secondary puller to get a preload spec what should I expect? This is a trail sled hopefully a little more. I also ordered the skidoo puller to hook a secondary up to a spring scale. Please help I would really really like to wake this sled up. Also I am rebuilding with wiseco complete kit any suggestions??? Thanks
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-27-2007, 04:10 AM
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Quote:
I finally got my old helix apart and am installing an EPI clutch kit on an mxz 670. I was wondering I already put it together quite possibly wrong and when I installed the new helix it snapped all the ramps. What direction do I preload the clutch? Also I just ordered the secondary puller to get a preload spec what should I expect? This is a trail sled hopefully a little more. I also ordered the skidoo puller to hook a secondary up to a spring scale. Please help I would really really like to wake this sled up. Also I am rebuilding with wiseco complete kit any suggestions??? Thanks[/b]
been to long since I had a 670. but welcome. I TD has some help for you if not I will doo some research and find out what I ran in mine.

"DREAM AS THOUGH YOU'LL LIVE FOREVER, LIVE AS THOUGH YOU'RE GOING TO DIE TOMMORROW" JAMES DEAN
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-27-2007, 11:47 AM
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its wound counter clockwise when you assemble it. if all your ramps were brocken ya might of squished it together right on top of them. i spin theclutch half, hold it and then squish the helix in. if it stops before its in then your in the wrong spot.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-27-2007, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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The helix went in very easy until the very end when I was making room for the snap ring. It all went together fairly easily and it even seemed to have about the right preload then when I spreaded the clutch apart as I was unscrewing the tool to spread it, the clutch got stuck and then it kinda fell apart in the inside. I really have no idea what happened it was very wierd. How far do I need to twist the clutch as it is being put together?





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its wound counter clockwise when you assemble it. if all your ramps were brocken ya might of squished it together right on top of them. i spin theclutch half, hold it and then squish the helix in. if it stops before its in then your in the wrong spot.[/b]
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-27-2007, 06:03 PM
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The driven pulley should have a 504141800 Washer installed on the outside of the cam (helix) before the snap ring is installed (Ski Doo cams have a steel hub) so it doesn't chew up the aluminium EPI cam. A little bit of anti seize or grease should be applied to the inside bore of the new cam. Depending on the spring installed on the driven clutch (Ski Doo Beige) or EPI blue, start spring placement at A5 (C=softest A=intermediate and B=stiffest).Your goal here is to get an average of 19 lbs measured at the outer circumference of the sliding pulley half. With the scale in place pull it until the pulley moves 1" observe scale (eg. 21 lbs), slowly release the pull on the scale until the point at which the pulley rotates back and observe the scale (eg. 17 lbs). Your average is now 19 lbs. Keep in mind tightening the preload will slow down your up-shift and quicken back-shift while loosening preload will quicken up-shift and slow down back-shifting. If your kit didn't come with new TRA ramps, you might want to consider some 417005280 ramps as they really wake up the hole shot on packed snow. The stock 286 ramps are pretty good all around otherwise. If your primary is using an EPI yellow spring (240-320 lbs), set your adjustable pins to 18.2 grams (2 short hex screws). be sure to use OEM buttons in the primary (used ones) are just fine. Lube the sliding parts with Non stick table saw dry lube and make sure you use a new 417300067 Ski Doo belt. Set the pulley distance up with the engine idling and rear end lifted. With distance correct, the track should just start to creep off the ground. I wouldn't bother putting the windage plates back on the secondary either unless ultimate top speed is your goal. The cooling benefits with the plates off pays bigger dividends. Your shooting for 7850 ~ 7950 rpm and no more as power drops off fast on a 670. Set the clickers to # 4 to get a base line. I would also suggest changing your gearing from stock 26 - 44 to 26 - 42 because the 670 loves to be loaded down to optimize it's big flat torque band. Lastly, let your track limiter straps out 1 hole, tighten ski shocks 1 notch before max (depending on your weight I'm 225 with gear on) and hang on !


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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-27-2007, 06:05 PM
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If you have the motor apart, let me know. I can give you some sound advice to make play more fun.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-27-2007, 10:01 PM
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you note he says " a little anti seize or greese". I will say this a little goes a long way. I say the 280 ramps.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-28-2007, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Wow quite the info, where can I get a different sprocket? Is there a part number?




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you note he says " a little anti seize or greese". I will say this a little goes a long way. I say the 280 ramps.[/b]
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-30-2007, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know where to get the hook to check the secondary spring tension? I tried the part number skidoo gives in my manual but just got an email today that it is discontinued. Has anyone ever made this tool? Is there another part number?
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-30-2007, 07:44 PM
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The scale hook can be fashioned from a plate of steel or aluminium with the scale hook hole close to the outer circumference of the sliding half pulley.

[attachment=39990:Clutch_t...on_plate.jpg]

Remove the windage plate from your secondary (if equipped).

[attachment=39991:Remove_w...ge_plate.jpg]

Align slot in hook plate with reinforcement rib on pulley.

[attachment=39992:Plate_mounted.jpg]

Lock it down using one of the windage plate retaining screws and Bobs your uncle. If there's no factory windage plate you'll need to carefully drill a 3/32" hole into one of the casting bosses then tap it with a 1/4" X 20 threads per inch tap. Be careful not drill too deep into the boss and use a bottoming tap.

[attachment=39998:Plate_installed.jpg]

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Attached Images
File Type: jpg Clutch_tension_plate.jpg (65.6 KB, 63 views)
File Type: jpg Remove_windage_plate.jpg (83.1 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg Plate_mounted.jpg (75.4 KB, 59 views)
File Type: jpg Plate_installed.jpg (73.1 KB, 50 views)

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