Bleeding Air Out Of Cooling System 02 800 Rmk - Snowmobile World : Your #1 Snowmobile Forum
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 11-16-2007, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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Trenchdigger here,
Getting ready to put my motor back in after replacing crank(hurt the wallet on this one),wondering if anyone knows proper procedure for getting air out of the cooling system or tips?also what type is the best antifreeze to use?Thanks for your time TRENCHDIGGER.
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 11-16-2007, 10:24 AM
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You need to raise the front of the sled up 12-18" so the bleeder on top of the motor is actually the high point. Otherwise, air will be trapped back in the tunnel coolers.

'07 Apex RTX w/Pro X suspension conversion, Fox Floats w/resi's, Doo extro drivers, Cobra track, Dual Ryde FX rear clickers, .375 Edge torsion springs, HyGear Dual rate front skid springs, SLP anti-stab kit, Powermadd handguards/mirrors, 2" Rox riser, shimmed Poo skis w/custom (homemade) ski savers, Black chrome W/S, Graphics by Arctic FX, and a grin every time I think about it! New Project: 600HO Fusion bump sled, Air 2.0 w/hi/low valves, HRM spindles, Retro graphics, .359 torsion springs.
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 11-16-2007, 02:26 PM
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You have to get the front higher than the rear exchanger. 18" will do it if you have someone sit on the back of the sled when you're filling. You will hear it gurgling from the back to the front as you fill. After it's full, start the engine, leaving the cap off the coolant bottle and let it run until there is heat in the rear heat exchanger. It should suck a little more out of the bottle. You should take a bit more than a gallon of fluid to fill 'er up. Use 60/40 ethylene glycol/water, (the green stuff) and any brand that is safe for aluminum (most are.) I use prestone mostly.

If you just replace the crank, it's a good idea to let it go through two or three heat/cool cycles, then re-torque the head bolts. Also, did you get the primary clutch balanced? 950 bucks for a new crank sure sucks, don't it! My case was bad as well as my crank, so had to spend 200 more for a line-bore. I also added an engine plate and a torque link and push stop, I hope I get more than 1700 miles out of this one! Be careful of the the aluminum guillotine valves, they have a tendency to come apart in the 800. There's no cooling around the valve, so they heat up and melt. New ones are stainless steel and are more durable. Gawd, I just LOVE throwing LOTS of money at a 5 year old sled. Sigh.

2007 RMK 700, 2008 RMK 600, 1995 AC Prowler 2-up, 1980? AC Cheetah
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