Polaris Engine Identification - Snowmobile World : Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Polaris Engine Identification

Got a modded polaris that has a swapped motor in it and i have no clue what it came out of or for sure what size it is. Makes ordering parts and identifying problems very difficult. Wondering if anybody can help me out or point me in the right direction. I was told there should be a barcode or serial tag on the chain case side of the motor, there is none. Only visible numbers on the motor are stamped on the jug of cylinder #3- 2C68PL03. Tried to google and search with no results. Anything else i can look for to identify this motor? The water pump is on the front side of the motor and is gear driven. I can take pictures of the motor if needed. Any help would be great, thanks.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 09:52 PM
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That's a motor out of a 1997 Ultra SPX, it's a triple, 680.

380 Mains, 50 pilots, 91 octane fuel required, air screw 1 turn out.

What do you need to know about it?
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 09:53 PM
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Also - go back and look at the motor number again... I think it will actually read EC68PL03
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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First digit is a bit hard to make out but i do believe it is an E. And thanks for the info.

Im having a major over heating issue. After about ten minutes of riding, coolant will spray out of the over flow cap. Checked the level, was good. Pressure tested it, upper hose had a leak at one of the clamps, new clamp and system then held 19psi. Tested the cap, was rated for 19-21psi, only made about 13psi and leaked out. Replaced the cap and took it for a test run, still over heated. Noticed the heat exchangers are not getting hot, figured it was a circulation issue. Pulled the water pump assembly off then disassembled it. Impellor fins are all intact and spins with the gear. Im kind of at a stand still at this point. Any typical issues that may cause this?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Oil is not mixing with coolant or vise versa. Also had it running for about 20 seconds and the upper hose wasnt getting pressurized, so it doesnt seem like a head gasket issue either.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 10:16 PM
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Let's start at "the beginning"...

How long have you owned the sled? Did the sled run well for you at one point and this is a new issue, or does the problem [likely] pre-date your ownership?
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Im assuming it pre dates my ownership. I bought it last year. When i got it, it didnt really wanna idle or run very well. Backfired alot. So i pulled off the carbs and took them apart to clean and rebuild. After the rebuild, sled idled great and seemed to run fairly well, but there was no snow so i never got to ride it. This year i fired it and it was not running on cylinder 3, pipe was staying cold. After looking for that issue, found that the choke was frozen in the 3rd carb, starving it for air. Rebuilt it with some new parts and got it running on all 3. Took it out and sled runs great, pulls very hard and idles smooth. But still overheats. It over heated last year and i left it because there was no snow. This is the first iver tried diagnosing it. It has no cluster with a coolant light because im running a digatron to keep an eye on EGT's because its piped, among other mods. To watch the temp, i have a guage wired in.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 10:57 PM
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Two things you will want to check are that the system is completely full of coolant and that the bottle isn't warped.

Get the front of the sled up in the air and run it to warm it up. Fill the system with coolant as needed. It may take a few iterations to get it completely full.

Sometimes, if the neck of the bottle gets warped, the cap doesn't seal correctly and it doesn't hold pressure. That could keep the coolant from circulating. Since your exchangers aren't getting warm, I'm wondering if your system is full.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Only thing i didnt do was raise it up in the air and run it.

The bottle doesnt look warped. The cap has a hole in it so im not sure how it holds pressure. Ofcourse i took it half apart to remove the water pump, so ill have to order gaskets for it and get it back together. Atleast i can put fresh coolant in it and start over. I will probably use a coolant evacuator to take out any air bubbles as well as raise the front end up and run it.

Thanks for the help again
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-08-2013, 08:43 AM
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The bottle doesn't necessarily need to "look" bad. Sometimes the plastic warps, sometimes it just wears down from installing / removing the cap and the tolerances no longer meet spec.

I would start with ensuring the system is full and that the pump is working. The other thing you might want to check is the routing of the coolant lines and whether or not something is pinched - especially the hose that runs under the motor and the ones that run past the chaincase. If something was too short, it could have kinked.
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