'00 700 Twin-crank Failure - Snowmobile World : Your #1 Snowmobile Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-17-2003, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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My motor locked up 8 miles into the sled's first trip this year. I took the sled into my dealer (Ron and Brian's in Waukegan, IL) and Brian confirmed the damage, a mag side bearing locked up. I let Brian know that I was very aware of this issue on the '00 700 twins, and I would like to pursue warranty on the repairs. I argued that Ski-Doo knew of the problems and never recalled the machines. He agreed and began discussions with the service rep. but was told it was too many months out of warranty and they weren't willing to help.

Brian also said he was referred to a different part number for an updated crank with new flywheel weights.
My cost was almost $1,400 U.S. for just the crank.

I then called Ski-Doo customer service and stated my case to them, and also argued that the updated crank proves that there were issues with that motor. Got the same response-no help.

Went back to the dealer and asked how I could fix my existing crank so this would not happen again. He wasn't sure if there was anything that could be done and called the service rep. again. The rep. said that if I rebuild this crank it will probably happen again. Brian argued that it wasn't fair to tell a customer he couldn't do routine maintenance on his existing crank and has to spend an extra $1400 to properly fix the sled. The rep. agreed and authorized a warranty crank(part only).

The repairs included a case modification also. The oil port for the mag side bearings gets plugged off. Just the opposite of what you'd think. They told me that the isoflex grease that is packed into the bearings is a permanent grease and the fuel/oil mixture washes it out.
While the sled was apart I had new pistons and wrist pins/bearings installed.
Oh, by the way, that isoflex grease I mentioned? $58.28
pistons? $164.77 ea.
gasket set was $175.07
All said and done parts and labor was $1,129.61 with Ski-Doo paying for the crank. Ouch.

I couldn't be happier with Ron and Brian's dealership. Brian spent a LOT of time trying to get warranty for me, and I didn't even buy this sled from him. The last time I talked to him he had two more 700's with the same problem and Ski-Doo is giving him a hard time about warranty two weeks after they O.K.d mine. Go figure.

I hope this helps someone else get warranty. They should have recalled them in the first place, and I would still have $1,129.61 in the bank.

Garett.

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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-17-2003, 10:58 PM
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Great info - appreciate you sharing with all. Your story proves the old saying "a squeaky wheel gets oiled". No pun intended.

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-18-2003, 08:35 AM
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How many miles did you have on it when it locked up?
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-18-2003, 10:24 AM
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MY 00 mxz 700 locked the crank up at 700 kliks in the middle of Chandos lake. Had to walk for miles in deep powder Bombi is usually pretty good on warranty problems, but i admit you do have to get on the horn yourself. Not to bad considering that it is the end of the 03 season.

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-18-2003, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Papa's MachZ-

Sled had around 2000 mi.

One of the other sleds I saw at the dealer had around 3300mi.

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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-24-2003, 09:36 PM
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The problem you had with your sled is simple. You may think this is far fetched but this is true. The REAL reason why the mag side bearings on the 700 twins in 2000 were failing is because there was no ground wire from the motor to the chassis. Mercury snowmobiles had this same problem back in the 70's. As far as the isoflex grease, fuel/oil does not wash it out, the grease is from the aircraft industry and it is made to last about 10,000 kms (6250 miles) or more. The oil cavity thing is just something that someone started a long time ago when Doo had problems with the 3 cylinders in 1998. Simple cure - Isoflex grease and pre-mix your fuel with every fill (forever) ! You will see your engine last longer if you premix (1 cup full of oil per tank), especially for cold starts and snow ingestion. Take my word for it, this really WORKS !
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-26-2003, 08:04 PM
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Revguy the fuel oil mix DOES wash out the isoflex grease. I just pulled apart a 00 700 that had the mag bearing packed last season and this season the grease was gone.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-27-2003, 08:41 PM
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I lost the mag side bearing on my 2000 700 in February, got it rebuilt
locally for $851.00. After reading some of the comments on that grease issue, is this something to worry about? I don't want to go through this B.S. again. The money was bad enough, but I lost three weeks' riding
in the best winter here in years........
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-27-2003, 09:23 PM
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shadowman, it depends on what bearings were used when your crank was rebuilt. If they were the '00 bearings and the oil feed hole was left open (or enlarged) your OK, just the oil pump adj good and fat. If your crank was rebulit with the update bearings then the oil hole should have been plugged. if you have your parts reciept you can check, one the (update) bearings was about $60, the other $35. If it was rebulit using the '00 spec both bearings were about $35.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-28-2003, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
I lost the mag side bearing on my 2000 700 in February, got it rebuilt
locally for $851.00. After reading some of the comments on that grease issue, is this something to worry about? I don't want to go through this B.S. again. The money was bad enough, but I lost three weeks' riding
in the best winter here in years........
I had the EXACT same thing happen to me, at about the same time (cost $1000 Canadian).

My problem now, is that the sled is starting to make the same noises as it did when it went the first time. It only has about 6,000 Km on it since the factory rebuild. Sounds like a Polaris when you back off on the gas, and I thought it was a clutch or chaincase problem at first.

The mag side, and the PTO side bearing sound just slightly rougher than the center bearings now through the stethescope, and I'm wondering if I should rebuild it now, or hope it lasts another season.

I guess it's a stupid question -- of course I should rebuild it, but I just don't want to if I don't have to.


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