Track Moving At Idle - Snowmobile World : Your #1 Snowmobile Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-05-2009, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Track Moving At Idle

One of my sleds that I recently bought (1989 440 Jag AFS) is set so that you start moving at low rpms. I don't know how many exactly because it doesnt have a tachometer. The only part that I'm a little worried about is that when I pick the back end off the ground the track slowly rotates when its at idle. It's only a tiny tiny bit, its so slow that sometimes it doesnt rotate at all but I was wondering if this is bad for the clutch or not. You still have to give it a decent amount of gas (not a ton) to get it moving and it has plenty of power. Just wondering if its ok for the clutch to have it like this.
Thanks, Dave

Ya I'd say its official now, winter in Connecticut sucks. Rain/sleet/freezing rain in winter??

"Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it."


Current Sleds:
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1989 Jag 440 AFS
1986 Citation LS

Previous Sleds:
1972 Olympique
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-06-2009, 10:20 AM
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That's pretty much normal - especially if the track has been warmed up a little.

'07 Apex RTX w/Pro X suspension conversion, Fox Floats w/resi's, Doo extro drivers, Cobra track, Dual Ryde FX rear clickers, .375 Edge torsion springs, HyGear Dual rate front skid springs, SLP anti-stab kit, Powermadd handguards/mirrors, 2" Rox riser, shimmed Poo skis w/custom (homemade) ski savers, Black chrome W/S, Graphics by Arctic FX, and a grin every time I think about it! New Project: 600HO Fusion bump sled, Air 2.0 w/hi/low valves, HRM spindles, Retro graphics, .359 torsion springs.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-06-2009, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks for the info. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't bad for the clutch for some reason.
Thanks, Dave

Ya I'd say its official now, winter in Connecticut sucks. Rain/sleet/freezing rain in winter??

"Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it."


Current Sleds:
1996 Formula SLS
1989 Jag 440 AFS
1986 Citation LS

Previous Sleds:
1972 Olympique
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-07-2009, 05:55 PM
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It might indicate a bit of wear in your driven clutch, but as long as it doesn't pull the motor down or squeal as it sits, you're probably not going to hurt anything. If you do start noticing that it is doing either of those, then your belt may be at risk (along with some other things). That's when I'd look at the driven (secondary) clutch. A bit more space between the sheaves will usually take care of the problem assuming they aren't improperly aligned.

Formerly known as 63November, and before that as Golsovia.

Riding since 1983.

-Scorpion Whip
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Current:
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-07-2009, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Ok sounds good. I'll keep an eye out for that but its not making any sounds right now. If it does I'll be sure to check it out.
Thanks for the info,
Dave

Ya I'd say its official now, winter in Connecticut sucks. Rain/sleet/freezing rain in winter??

"Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it."


Current Sleds:
1996 Formula SLS
1989 Jag 440 AFS
1986 Citation LS

Previous Sleds:
1972 Olympique
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 12:16 PM
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Make sure you lube the rollers on the clutch .

670 SKIdoo
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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is there a grease fitting for that?

Ya I'd say its official now, winter in Connecticut sucks. Rain/sleet/freezing rain in winter??

"Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it."


Current Sleds:
1996 Formula SLS
1989 Jag 440 AFS
1986 Citation LS

Previous Sleds:
1972 Olympique
citationls is offline  
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-10-2009, 09:17 AM
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You want your track to creep at idle(just a little). As long as it doesn't bog the motor it's fine.
Thats telling you that your belt deflection is right. You want the belt high as you can get it in the seconary and should start to creep the track when off the ground.

If you lube anything on or in the clutches Make sure it's a dry lube(ie) comet clutch lube . You want a grafite base lube, nothing with grease in it.
Any grease based lube will collect belt dust and it WILL gunk up the clutches.
I always wash mine in HOT soapy water,blow them out w/ air and re-install..no lube other than a bit of anti-seize on the splines of the shafts.

Mutt


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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-10-2009, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, good to know that my belt and clutches are adjusted properly. Ya I probably won't add any lube to inside the clutches because I don't wanna take them apart but I'll lube the shaft when I put the clutch back on.
Thanks, Dave

Ya I'd say its official now, winter in Connecticut sucks. Rain/sleet/freezing rain in winter??

"Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it."


Current Sleds:
1996 Formula SLS
1989 Jag 440 AFS
1986 Citation LS

Previous Sleds:
1972 Olympique
citationls is offline  
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 02:24 PM
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I guess I'm just a bit different than some when it comes to my clutches. I find that the single biggest cause of clutch failure is neglect. They should to be taken off, cleaned and inspected every 2000-3000 miles or annually, whichever comes first. Secondly, corrosion and dry wear come into play. While some of the bearings and bushings are intended to work adequately in a dry condition, the one thing that "dry" doesn't do well is prevent corrosion. I still use oils and greases/waxes on my clutches. (I bought and used many bottles of the Polaris clutch and cable lube they sold over the years.) So, while I tend to use the dry lubes, like the Comet moly based aerosol, much of the time, I still use some oil from time to time - as I see "red dust" forming in things. And spring time will see me slathering bare metal parts with one of the aerosol "greases" like LPS 3 on unprotected metal. Only the belt contact surfaces get it thoroughly cleaned off in the fall. And belts which last 5000 miles and clutches lasting 10,000 miles are no mean trick with these methods - subject to the horsepower and gearing of the machines of course. Of course, I also clean areas that collect the sticky "spin-off" residues periodically so it won't find it way back into or onto moving parts.

And I don't run nor want a machine to be able to move the track at idle. Either the track is way too loose, or the tension on the belt is too tight.

Formerly known as 63November, and before that as Golsovia.

Riding since 1983.

-Scorpion Whip
-Ski-Doo Skandic
-Yamaha Enticer LTs
-Polaris Trails

Current:
-99 Arctic Cat 550 Panther 14,000+ miles
-08 Ski-Doo 550 Backcountry
-340 eBay Edge from AK, and 10+ other states
-'11 AC T570 brand new...4000 miles
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