Loss Of Power When Sled Gets Warm - Snowmobile World : Your #1 Snowmobile Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-02-2003, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Howdy sledheads. My old Everest is causing me fits. It currently runs great for about 10 minutes, then it will start losing power. Eventually, it bogs down and can't get up enough revs to move. I've rotated then changed the plugs. The carb is clean and because it runs great at first, makes me think that it is not the carb. I do notice that the fuel filter is not full of fuel when it bogs down. I swapped the fuel pump and hose and get the same results. I am beginning to suspect that I am losing compression in the right cylinder when the thing heats up either through the intake, piston ring, or bottom end. The loss of compression causes the fuel pump to stop right? Does anyone have any ideas on where to start? Just a little more backgound on this sled, it melted a piston 6 years ago, and sat for 4 years. I had the pistons and rings replaced and the cylinder walls honed. Nothing was done to the bottom end. Is there an easy way to diagnose lower seals?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-02-2003, 05:07 PM
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Sounds to me like seals,one way to check is spray carb cleaner arouynd seal areas when running,you can tell if it's drawing in air if it bogs.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-02-2003, 05:27 PM
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check the gas filter. On my old jag the filter was part way plugged so when I started it there was enough gas in the filter to let it run good for a few minutes then once it ran all the gas out of there the filter was plugged enough so that it wouldn't run fast, but it would give it enough gas to idle still. Once I'd shut it off and give the filter time to fill again it would start and run good.

Sounds like yours could be worse, but anythings worth a try! :thumbsup: good luck!

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-03-2003, 12:33 AM
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With it sitting for 4 years not running, I would say it is more than likely the crank seals. Like Gator said, start it up and take carb and choke cleaner and spray at the ends of the crank and if it bogs you need to replace the seals. I had a Kawasaki Drfiter that did the same thing, it was the seals. I got a 78 440 Everest. It is my back up sled and a sled for my friends to ride. Good luck!! SWRules

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-05-2003, 08:24 PM
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Hey there, If none of the above suggestions work you ay want to try changing the points if it has them. I have a 79 everest (chassis) with a 79 Blizzard motor (same thing, minor differences) I had a similar problem with mine. You can go like a bat out of hell for a while and then (usually when slowing down) it drops down to only one cylindar (read my post "79 Blizzard, Totally Baffled") We realized during one of it's "fits" it was not getting any spark to that cylindar and only when revving the engine did we see anything. Bringing the conclusion that when there is no spark on a low rev, the carb gets flooded causing it to bogg. try changing those. really cheap item....$5.50 or so for each.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-12-2003, 09:41 AM
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Crank seals for sher.....

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2003, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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How can I get close to the crank seals? On one side is the starter ring gear and clutch, and on the other is the pull cord. Both ends are concealed.

Here is something that makes me scratch my head. Last weekend I put a full tank of fuel in and it ran great for an hour or so. When it got down to 1/2 tank it started acting up. I pulled the air hose that runs from the right cylinder to the fuel pump, and it was giving me both positive and negative pressure with each revolution. This makes me think that it is not the seals, but I'm no expert. I replaced the fuel pick up hose (did not fill up the tank) and it continued its old way of working. (10 good minutes, then acts bad.)

What I notice is that on my 1981 Everest 500 the fuel line comes out of the tank is about 2 inches up from the bottom, so that fuel is gravity fed until there is less than 1/3 tank. On this 1978 everest the fuel hose comes out very near the top so that as the tank drains down the fuel pump has to do more work to pull fuel up to the top of the tank. I am thinking about drilling a hole and putting a grommet about 2" up from the bottom of the tank and having the fuel gravity fed. Then when the tank gets low, the pump only has to pull fuel up 2" of hose rather than the 10" or so that it does now. Does anyone have a good or bad comment about doing this modification and advise for getting carb cleaner closer to the crank seals?
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2003, 05:27 PM
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Take the carb and choke cleaner and put the straw thing in the nozzle and get that as close as you can to the clutch side and spray. If its sucking air at all it should suck up the carb spray. As far as drilling the tank, I wouldnt do that. My Everst has the same tank set up as your older one and it works fine. If you dont think your getting fuel rebuild the fuel pump. Its only a couple of dollars and is pretty easy to do. Pay attention to how the seals and diaphram are when you take it apart. When it is not running right, have you tried giving the primer a slow prime. If its not getting fuel that should give it fuel. I dont know if that works for sure but its an idea to try. I still say the seals.

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