tried to install a clutch kit on a 98xc700 saturday morning and didnt have much luck. bought an EPI kit and puller from dennis kirk. the primary would not budge. i lubed the puller as told, and put a good amount of torque on it and even tapped the end. i wanted to ride the rest of the weekend so i hesitated to really reef on it, but it wouldnt come off with a 'reasonable amount of torque'. any suggestions? so then i pulled the secondary and checked it out-do you just take the snap ring off the back to change the helix/spring? i needed a second set of hands to get that off. the snap ring pliers i have didnt seem to want to spread it far enough. i feel like a moron for not being able to put a clutch kit in. seems like it should be pretty simple. had a good ride sunday on the stock stuff though.

It takes a lot of torque to get that primary off especially if it has not been off for a while. I use a 18 inch handle on my socket and tighten it as much as I can. Even at that I have to hit the end of the puller sometimes to get them to pop off.
Yes you take the snap ring off to get at the helix and spring. You need a large set of pliers to spread it far enough. A second set of hands helps to compress the helix away from the snap ring or else make or buy a tool to compress it for you. Sometimes you have to work the helix a bit to get it to come out after the snap ring is out too if it hasn't been apart for a while. It's a good idea to take your clutches apart for inspection and cleaning at least once a year.

When I take my primary off it takes a good rap or 2 on the puller.

so you dont think i'll snap something or strip the threads if i put a breaker bar and really lean on it? i just leaned on a normal size 1/2" handle as much as i dared. do you guys just hit the end of the ratchet handle while pushing on it?

I had a hard time with mine too. DOn't feel bad. I put a good amount of torque on it and then hit the end of the puller with a dead blow hammer. I had to hit it pretty hard too. Finally it poped off. Good luck.

When I have a hard time removing a primary clutch, if a couple hard hits on the puller head don't work (before I force too much and break the puller inside the clutch as I've heard of this happening), I remove puller and pump about 4-5 shots of grease into hole and re-install the puller and have always had the clutch pop off this way, but is just messy as all grease must be cleaned up from PTO end and inside clutch taper (this is called a hydraulic wedge). As for secondary, remove snap ring (push and twist helix clockwise a little to remove spring tension on snap ring). When re-installing new helix, make sure the spring ends are inserted into holes (one in moveable sheave, the other in the helix), then turn moveable sheave counterclockwise a quarter turn while holding stationary sheave (bottom one), then while holding both sheaves with one hand, push down on helix and install snap ring. I find this hard to describe, but once you have done it, you'll understand. If your working on a Bombardier secondary, you'll need someones help or some special tools as the secondary spring tensions are high on Bombs.
Good luck and hope this helps ! ;)

Keep turning and tapping but turn the puller out every so often and make sure its not starting to bend. A friend borrowed mine and kept putting force and instead of popping the clutch off he corkscrewed the puller inside the clutch. Ended up cutting the clutch off and replacing it.

Limskii I could not have said it better that is the correct way to take the primary off grease. Never use an impact wrench. I like to use a big wrench on the puller so you can hit on the end of the puller while turning the wrench slowly. It is hard on the ratchet to be hitting it with a hammer and a breaker bar takes most of the impact out of the blow from a hammer so using a wrench you are hitting square on the puller not losing any force from the hammer. Don't be swinging to hard.

i use grease on the tip of the puller and a breaker bar with a pipe extension. tighten as much as you can then rapon the puller with a hammer i use a lightweight steel hammer and use a sharp yet light impact. then try to tighten the puller some more.often it will turn some more. then hammer then tighten hammer tighten etc. once i stopped because the puller wouldnt tighten i left it overnight and the next day i got another eighth turn quite easily and it popped off. good luck

I just removed my primary to install a heelclicker clutch kit on my 02 edge x 700. I couldn't get my primary off either. Called the dealer and he told me to use an electric impact with a low torque rating. It came right off the impact hardly worked. I was skeptical about using a impact but it worked you also might want to check with your dealer to make sure you have the right puller because I have heard of people having wrong pullers. And that will cause a ton of damage.

if you are still having problems, try using a propane torch to heat between the clutch faces while rotating the clutch (make sure you don't have a fuel leak) the heat expansion of metal will pop the clutch off the crank.

Why not use an impact wrench....that puts the impact and strain in the same direction the motor is designed for... it puts a radial force on the crankshaft...woo hoo...

I would be more worried about using a BFH to beat on the end of the clutch puller... that puts a strain down the axis of the crank.... pushing it sidways against its bearings, and that force is transmitted all the way out the other side to the stator....

Someone clear this up for me.... why am I not supposed to use an impact wrench on my clutch puller... if it is used with brains and not cranked down to 10000 ft-lbs of torque. And is this based on fact or something that you heard from someone??

UPrider, I agree. Should be no big deal to use impact with a little brains. Too much can strip the threads easier is the biggest problem. Do not use the gun to install, though. Two manufacturers had cranks breaking (and clutches bouncing around) tracable to people overtorquing the bolts (using rattle gun). Torque wrench!

I agree absolutely.... use the impact for removal, and always use the torque wrench to reinstall.

I dont know why but in the race book it says WARNING never use any type of impact wrench at drive pulley removal and installation

You really don't want to use an impact because unless your crank is welded, you could spin the crank. That is why they say not to use one. But if you are REALLY carefull, I don't see a huge issue. Used one a few times very carefully but I try to stay away from them. There may be other reasons but this is the main one. Everything on your crank is just a press fit for most. Unless you are a true motor head and have had the crank trued and welded. I know hitting it with a BFH isn't the greatest either. All is used within reason.

I'm sure they say not to use an impact because of the possibility of damage. It is just a CYA policy in the event somebody has an impact cranked up and does manage to break the puller in the clutch. This way the manufacturer doesn't have to fix it under warranty.

wow, thanks for all the replies. i might have another go at it this weekend. if i put a squirt or two of grease on the tip of the puller is that the best way to get it in there? i'm pretty sure the hose on my grease gun would not fit in the hole. also, how much of a mess is it to clean up after if i go that route?