IM LOOKING AT GETTING A NEW TRACK. IM THINKING OF A PREDETOR 1 1/4 *6799818 OR THE CHALLENGER 1 1/2 *6799803 HAVE U TRIED THEM AND WHAT DO U LIKE *AND WHY? * * * *IM RUNNING A 2000 MACHZR LET ME KNOW WHAT U TRIED .

Hey machz69 i ran a predator #9818 for over 12000kliks of abusive riding. it held up excellent. Now i have a renegade 800 and after coming back from a week in the cochrane timmins area i am definetly considering getting the challenger 1.5" If you are into off trail powder exploration go for the 1.5 . You'll get stuck even less and have more acceleration and better braking than even the 1.25"

Hey machz69, I just installed my 1 1/4" predator 9818 last week and my acceleration has greatly improved and my top end is still good (track only weighs 36lbs.), as compared to my 1" predator that had 144 trail studs and weighed 46lbs. Just yesterday, I was riding with some buddies and one had a 2001 SRX, that he bought this year (all stock and 1100km), and from a 40mph roll-on, we stayed side by side right up to 90mph, only then did he creep away very slowly, I tapped out at 100mph (25/44 gearing). I was impressed with my speed with that track. Do you want to buy a challenger 1", I only used it two weeks (120miles). I think you'll be happier with the 1 1/4" 9818, as I know you still like top end.
Just my opinion!

What type of sled do you have Limskii? *I am getting ready to install the same track in my 2001 MXZ800. *I am debating on wether I should put 96 or 144 studs down the center and wether I should switch my gearing from 27/43 to 25/44. *Any opinions?

Blaise,

Drop the gearing and reclutch!! *You will know why when you do. *25/44 is still good for 108mph with all the deductions added in. *Also only use 96 studs on the 1.25", reasons for that but don't want to explain

GLH

The reason I would say to only use (96) 1.325" studs in a 1.25" track is because anything more then 96 will be to much weight which will rob horsepower and top speed. *However, Doug at Woody's reccomends 144 because he said with the MXZ800 if you only used 96, to much force would be placed on each stud and they will have the tendancy to rip out much easier as compared to 144 *- if you are an agressive trail rider. *This is why I am having a hard time deciding.

Whats it gonna be Machz69? Did you decide yet?

lol it looks like its gonna be the 1.25 i still luve my speed...............hehehe... any good deals on 1? :devil:

Are you going to the sled show? Im sure there will be some deals on a 9818 there.

u know what i never even thought of it.... when is it?

We are going oct 25, but it is on the sat and sun too. Usually some good deals to be had and all the vendors are there. At least no tax if not better

every year that i have been there royal offers 15% off and free shipping on the products,but if its at the show you have to take it with you

well i might just be there on the friday ...i have to work on the saturday. NOW FOR THE NEXT QUESTION... has anyone ran the 1 1/4 preditor and ran studs on a machz or what ever realy and how much speed was lost or how durable or just stay with no studs :sly: :D

machz69,i guess that would depend on what you want to do,if your not going to run lots of ice then you wont need the studs,a 1.25 works great for us northern folk :D

I just asked the question about 1.5" vs 1.250" tracks i the powder/mountain forum.
Caleb

I talked with a guy from camoplast for about an hour friday.he told me that a 1 inch track would hook as well as the 1.25 in most instances.he said I could run studs with the 1 inch and not really worry about them being to long and bending,which he said is the biggest problem with studding the 1.25's.what he said was the 1 inch and 1.25 you will never notice the differance from the riders seat. :0:

i just bought a 9818 1.25" for 350 bucks brand new off of mcb.

What/where is MCB sledcrazy??

i have had a 1 and 1.25 and 1.5 inch tracks each is noticeably different,and i could notice the difference from the drivers seat,its only a 1/4 inch jump in lug size but muliply that by the amount and width of the lugs and it adds up

. I agree Panteraone as I have had .88", 1" and different 1.25". It is suprising how much of a difference a 1/4 inch can make. Also as the lug gets bigger so doo the chunks that come out the rear end, i cant wait to run the 1.75" this year :D

Knowing the way you ride, Mr wheelie ;) I would go with a 1" with the studs as you will have less rotating mass than with a studded 1.25" . My 97 mach1 came with a oem 1" track. It was great , no speed penalty. It did not hold up though and was replaced under warranty.

i find that there is a big difference from a 1` and a1 1/4 , i have seen that first hand with a buddy that ran both. the 1 inc seems to fold so u do need studs. the 1 1/4 has thicker lugs. now as for rotating mass, this is why im thinking of going with 1 1/4 cause the preditor tracks are both lighter then my stock track.88 with 144studs. and the 1 inch is the same weight as the 1.25. they both weight in at 37lbs but more importantly every third window is closed to trap snow and help the slidders.i might just mise the studs. i was reading an article on those lug studs and was just wondering if anyone has tried this.

I'm going to try a 9833 (same as 9818 except all open windows) with 96-144 1.325 down the middle in the rx1

i know 2 guys that put them(lug studs)on a 1.25 track,the one had lost something like 40 of them in a month and a half,they pulled out and some ripped out of the lug,on the other track he only lost a couple and the rest held up pretty good

hmmm,maybe the camo rep knows nothing.I doubt that though.don't take this info, call them yourself and see who knows better.which is exacly what I did after checking into buying a 1.25 track for my 700,any guess which I have?I run studs that is a givin for me.longer studs will bring the weight of the 1.25 over the 1 inch with studs.

there is a difference whether you believe it or not,for you to call camoplast and ask means you have not run different size lugs,i have ran the 1 and 1.25 and 1.5...im sure i can get a few to vouch that there is a difference in traction and hook-up and performance

i too know that there is a difference. it all depends when u where talking to him if your tone was more a one inch then an inch and a quarter....................lol

Ever considered getting used one or a take off track ? There are places on the net where good deals on used tracks can be got a great deals if you are in the right place at the right time. Finding a 1.25 or 1.5 x 121 might be a bit challenging but the savings are worth it . I just got a 1.5 x 133.5 slightly used polaris track for just under $300 CND to my door. sure is better than $ 800 CND
it's just a suggestion.
Send me a msg if you want to know where I found mine
( I don't want to make the Censor Police mad )

I've had a 0.88, 0.92, 1 (staggered paddle & studded), 1 (staggered paddle lightweight), 1.18 (full block), 1.25 (staggered paddle), and 1.45 inch (staggered paddle) tracks on my 1997 Mach 1, and have been most impressed with my 9818 camoplast predator 1.25" track for my type of riding (Northern Ontario, lots of snow, groomed trails, and lake drags). I am however extending my rails this year to 136" and already have the 9819 camo. predator 1.25" to try and keep all these new lightweight, high powered sleds at bay, for the first 1000' anyways!

Limskii - do you have your 9818 studded?? How many?

well machz69,if thats the case he would have sold me on the more expensive 1.25 incher,that is what I called for.now for you to tell me I have never ran anything differant,total b.s.. if you must know the reason I called was because if you read the new snow tech, which I did, they have an article that even states this,being confused I called them to verify what I had read,and verify I did.most will tell you I swore by the 1.25 incher or the 1.187 full block was my choice,but know I think I will leave it to the experts which I am not.don't bash me call yourself.let me also add the article states that top-end speed loss is also over exagerrated when refer to the 1.25 track,they told me loss is not as great as most think.

Too many people are worried about how many studs to put into their tracks. If you are the type of person how rides lightly, then all you should be concerned with is enough traction to avoid sliding in icy corners or coming to a stop on ice or a icy trail. Engine size means nothing, riding style means everything! 96 studs is perfect for anyone who trail rides lightly.
Now with that being said, the other thing to look at is lug height. The studs for a 1.25 track are so long that they do not hook up very well, the just flop over. The traction you will get from a 1.25 track is awsome for most trail conditions. And when you need added traction in the corners, 96 studs in a 1.25 track is perfect. Anymore and you are just adding weight and LOSING HP!
If you are looking for huge hookup on ice and hardpack. Try using a 1 inch or .88 track with 144 to 196 studs.

I ordered a 1.25 9854 for my mxzx800 and will definately be studding. We ride in Vermont mountains and I can assure you that you are crazy for not studding here. Last year I helped push a brand new 700 xc up a groomed trail on a hill for two hundred yards because the guy was sure it would hook up with the stock 1" track. No way! We get all sorts of weird weather in Vt. Rain sucks on top of snow with a quick freeze. Southern exposure to some hills will leave an ice shoot sometimes hundreds of feet long at a 30+ degree pitch. Without studs, you are going to t-bone a tree or worse. I am going with the new woodies stainless goldiggers at 1.325" and double backers with the stud supports(bender plates). Not ideal, but I want my sleds strait, not sliding off a side hill, and want to be certain that my climbing does not end half way up a hill. Studs are a MUST for me.

speed loss for the 1.25 is exagerated,as long as its a paddle design there will be very little to no speed loss..its the FULLBLOCK 1.25 that really has a big top end loss

yeah i agree a full block will just kill yah.... dooman i was just joking around. im shure that is what the rep told you. but keep in mind you are running a 700. im guessing a twin. i would not run any more then a 1 inc on a 700 twin. i run a 1 inch full block on my 700 cat and thats lots. im running an 800 tripple the hp`s are very different. so for your case dooman he would be correct in saying that. but when you add hp`s you can spin an 1.25 way easier then a 700. i hope this clears up my point up. ;) :D SWRules

UPrider, I did not stud my 9818 (1.25") last winter, and don't plan on studding my 136" 9819 this year. If I did stud my 1.25" track, I'd install 96 (1.325") in a 121" , or 108 (1.325") in a 136" track using the Woody's Megabite studs and angled backers. These studs would only be installed down the center belt, as every studded track I've had, lost studs or tore the track in the outside belts, when used for trail riding. I would only heavily stud the full track for racing (drags), or with a very high horsepower engine 190 h.p. +. In my opinion, the need for a studded track or not, and amount/length of studs or lug height of track, mostly depends on type of riding and location, along with type and size of sled.
Just my opinion!

ok, I was wrong.I re-read the article and then called back today at work.he thought I was refering to the hyfax wear like the article was.we were on the wrong pages when I called the first time.I also changed the order on my track to get the 1.187 ,I had on the ho.I thought the 1.25 would hook better thats why when I read "they run side by side" I called and ask about it,he knew the article and thought I was talking about hyfax wear which is what the article was.so what I thought was performance was really hyfax wear,meaning they run about the same as far as wear goes. :thumbsup:

;)