How important is it to pull off the airbox and spray the engine fogging oil in the carbs?

For the first 6 years I have been riding I just ran my fuel low in the tank and used Stabil plus greased and lubed everything. Last year my bud had several issues which made me nervous so I tried the whole fogging procedure also. I find that it SUCKS. I like to start my sleds up once in awhile throughout the year and if you fog them your not suppose to and when you do they smoke like a mutha.

So I was thinking of maybe just storing the sleds the way I used to except maybe putting a bit of oil down the cylinders.

What do you people think?

This is wht i doo to my sled engines for their long summer rest :( Pull off airbox and fog until engine bogs and/or dies out.Drain carbs,add a little oil in the cyls and slowly rotate engine over several revolutions.Siphon majority of the fuel from the tank and stabilize.DO NOT start the engine until the fall.The majority of people who start there engines several times over the summer are the ones who have crank/engine problems the first few rides out.Just my opinon on the subject. ;)

ever seen what rust can doo to the crank bearings,let alone the top end.

To follow up dooman, run your engine with the stabil for a couple minutes, then manually engage your oil pump lever to full and really push oil onto the cranks. Stop the engine, pull plugs and spray an oil onto pistons, done. Never had a problem. This is a must with the older(God, that hurts to say. It is now redundant.) triples.

All i have have ever done is just start my sled every couple weeks or so and let it warm up then shut it down and i never had any probs, and i also cant go all summer without that sweet smell.

I've never fogged any of my sleds before either. although I have only had a one banger before my SKS. Not sure If I will do it or not. can't see myself going all summer without skippin some water or a few runs on the grass LOL

i always take the air box off and spray into the carbs,dont be shy and fill er up ,i use the whole can,also spray your exhaust,keeps it looking nice :p

Man it is so sad talking about putting them up, all in all though it has not been a bad winter.
i'll probably get one more ride in before its all over for another year.

For the amount of time & effort it takes to fog an engine it is cheap insurance. If you do start your sled during the summer, make sure you run it long enough to burn off any moisture.

SKI-DOOD

Man, your lucky to say u got a good winter. Here in MN weve had about 2 weeks of snow. I can't go the whole summer with out riding a sled, so thats why I bought a sled with no hifaxes. use it alot to ride. Soild track too, hopfuly turn it into a water skipping sled. :D

I can not believe you guys are talking about putting up the sled already.

March and the first couple weeks in April is great riding time.

well my winter is not over I won't have to put here away until at least the middle of April. mabye even mid May if I go into the hills. :D SWRules

I us eto fog my engine all the time too, But last year a mechanic told me that you don't have to do that. Just Fire your sled up about once every couple of weeks to get the fluids flowing. Run the sled till the cooling bars under the seat just start to get a little warm them shut her down. Just my 2 cents worth ;)

I drain my tank, and put back a gallon of fresh hi-test with stabil and start it every couple weeks. @ every 2nd month, I drain it again and put in another gallon w/stabil. Ive been doing this method for @7 years or since they have gone to the oxygenated fuels and it always seems to work for me. Every summer I pull the cylinders off to give the insides a good look and check clearences....so far, so good :thumbsup:

I dont fog, but it does work for most people and I dont disagree with that method.....it is way better than doing nothing!

My other rituals for putting my sled away include grease everything that can be greased to push out any moisture. I like to jack up the sled so that the ski's and track dangle, this will help the springs maintain there full useful range of motion and not take a set like they would if just sitting on the floor. Backing off the track tension bolts is a good idea to so that you dont get any odd stretching while it sets in one spot. Running the motor and moving the track helps too. Oh yeah...back the shock preload off for the same reasons as above.

Todd

for all the time it takes i say fog it.

Boy do I have a feild day with this one! FOG IT!! What people don't realize is the damage their doing to the needle bearings on the connecting rod. As an engine sits in storage, moisture accumulates on all the surfaces inside the engine, even after "warming her up a little."
This moisture starts the rusting proccess on bare steel, such as the bearing surfaces, and your oil-injection system does'nt put enough oil on the sitting parts to properly seal them.
Every time you run the engine every couple of weeks, the rust is worn away and a new layer is formed...time and time again. This leads to excessive clearance in the bearings, and before long...bearing failure.
To properly winterize your expensive prize possession, do the following;
#1. Treat the fuel tank with a good stabilizer, then top-off the tank with fresh fuel.
#2. Gain entry to the inside of the air-box for fogging purposes.

#3. Run the engine at about 2000rpm, and fog the motor for 30 seconds, continue fogging as the engine is being turned off, then stop.

#4. Use a wad of steel wool and place it in the exhaust out-let to prevent mice from finding a new home!

#5. Remove the drive belt and spray the clutch sheaves and everything else under the cowl with silicone spray...don't be stingey!

#6. Place "moth-balls" around the engine compartment, tool trunk, etc. This will keep mice from doing electrical work on your sled without permission.

#7. Loosen the track as far as possible, then silicone spray all the suspension parts liberaly.

#8. Elevate and block up the machine so all suspension parts have "0" pressure on them.

This next proceedure is only for those who have spent crazy money and have countless hours in clutching...like myself.

#9. Remove the primary clutch, then remove the spring. [a compressed spring will loose its tension rate]

#10. Finally...remove the secondary clutch, then the spring.

All of this does sound a bit "anal", but in reality it only takes 1 hour to complete, and come this fall, you'll kiss yourself for doing it the right way!