Call me stupid, but this is only the 2nd year for my own sled. What actually is fogging, how is it done and what does it accomplish. Thanks.

Joe

Fogging is when you take an engine storage spray and have the engine injest it.The spray itself applies a coating to the internal parts of the engine which helps prevent rusting/corrosion from moisture.

True fogging is spraying a fogging oil into the carburation system. This is done while the engine is running. There are many different methods etc. But here is my best estimate. Since it is done while the engine is running, you need to give it a little gas, otherwise it will stall. Make sure the engine is warmed up. You hold the spray button down for a good 30 seconds per cylinder. Then when it starts to cough pretty good, you can also shut the fuel off to help limit the amount of fuel left in the system.
Another point, try to get some sta-bil in the gas a little while before this.
The reason for the fogging oil is to lube the entire fuel system and cyclinders etc. Anywhere the fuel goes, so does this oil. Then this oil leaves a nice layer of protection on the cyclinder walls etc.
I have to admit since I take my carbs off in the fall and totally clean them, I just spray some fogging oil in the cylinders, pull it over a couple times and call it good.
Just my 2 cents and I'm sure others have better explanations.
Good luck

Originally posted by Tattoo3235@Mar 11 2003, 02:41 PM
Call me stupid, how is it done

Joe
First off ..... I'd rather call you Joe .... :D

The storage or "fogging" spray is sprayed directly into the carbs, alternate between the carbs ensuring even distibution but don't stall the engine untill you have sprayed in a sufficient amount. (at least a few seconds into each cylinder)

and I thought this a chance to rant about my crappy helmet :p

My Doo dealer sold me the Doo fog and instucted to apply the whole spray bomb.
This took a long time. It was easy to apply as I sprayed directly into the primer line as I reved the machine. When you fog your sled, you will know why they call it fogging .......cough, cough

Originally posted by alscool@Mar 11 2003, 04:08 PM
When you fog your sled, you will know why they call it fogging .......cough, cough
:withstupid:

I had the neighbourhood volunteer fire fighter at my house.... :nervous:

Thanks for the tips and explaination.

Joe

When you fog your sled, I guess you don't bother starting it up once a month or so over the summer? That would take the protective coating off of everything right?

put some gas stabilizer in the tank so it draws in the carbs during the fogging. Do the fog thing and shut her down for the season. Take the weight off the suspension and stuff the exhaust pipe to prevent mice from nesting, have a beer and lament on the good or bad season, re-introduce yourself to the wife/girlfriend as you may have drastically change over the season and think about a second job to pay the credit card.

Originally posted by jayjaysin@Mar 12 2003, 06:36 PM
When you fog your sled, I guess you don't bother starting it up once a month or so over the summer? That would take the protective coating off of everything right?
right

wonder if it would be better to start fogging my sled insted of whayt i have been doing. Usually i will drain all the gas from the tanks and use it in my lawnmower. then i will start the sleds and run the gas completly out of the lines until i can no longer start the sled. then i have always pulled the plugs and dumped about 2-3 tablespoons of oil down the cylinders and pull it over about 10 times to coat the walls with oil. Would fogging be better? come november i can usually start the sleds on first of second pull once fuel line is on.

That is what the Yamaha manual of my buddies 93 Exciter recommends. (oil down the plug holes)

snowmobiler7c.........fogging would definitely be better as is ensures all area are coated with the "oil fog" In the method you are describing, only the cylinder walls get coated.

Some people also claim it is bad to drain fuel out of a carb because they say it will prematurely dry rot the rubber components. They say it is better to have fuel in there with a stabilizer added. Just my 2 cents

Also, don't store a sled with reformulated gas. The 10% ethanol will absorb moisture and it shortens the life of rubber components.

I'm sure this has been beaten to death... forgive, it's my first season.
So do you spray directly into the carbs or do you spray before the carbs, in the air box?
Thanks!

worb, dont worry its no problem. You spray directly into the carbeurators. :D by the way it is ok to just start the sled once a month or so rite?? Thats what i do, no problems so far?

Originally posted by mx_462@Apr 16 2003, 06:21 PM
worb, dont worry its no problem. You spray directly into the carbeurators. :D by the way it is ok to just start the sled once a month or so rite?? Thats what i do, no problems so far?
If you start your sled & run it till the engine is warm to the touch, you're wasting your time fogging it. If you fog the engine you don't start it until you have to in the fall.

yeah i no, i dont fog it, just start it once in a while.

:withstupid: Is there away to fog motor without pulling off air box

If you use a fogging product with a long nozzle, get a piece of bulk primer line a couple of feet long, push it over the nozzle, and if you're lucky, you should be able to push the carb boot back far enough to get the line in.

Originally posted by snowmobiler7c@Mar 12 2003, 04:12 PM
wonder if it would be better to start fogging my sled insted of whayt i have been doing. Usually i will drain all the gas from the tanks and use it in my lawnmower. then i will start the sleds and run the gas completly out of the lines until i can no longer start the sled. then i have always pulled the plugs and dumped about 2-3 tablespoons of oil down the cylinders and pull it over about 10 times to coat the walls with oil. Would fogging be better? come november i can usually start the sleds on first of second pull once fuel line is on.
Fogging is better than putting oil down the plug holes. One of the biggest things that need protection is the crankshaft bearings - one speck of rust will destroy a bearing in no time. I don't recomend putting oil down the plug holes (even though most owner's manuals do) - I've seen were the solvents in the oil have dissolved the carbon on the top of the piston, and it can run down into the piston ring grove, and cause a ring to stick.

Originally posted by mx_462@Apr 16 2003, 07:14 PM
yeah i no, i dont fog it, just start it once in a while.
If you don't let it warm up full, this can be worse than doing nothing at all. Starting it up and shutting it down- before allowing it to reach operating temperature- can and will cause condensation to form inside your engine.

First I run the sled for a few minutes with Stabil in the gas tank to get it circulated through the fuel line. Better to have gas in the tank over summer rather than not. Keeps evertything wet so it won't dry out. Then I pull the plugs and SLOWLY pull the engine over a few times while I spray in the fogging oil and replace the plugs. Spray all moving metal parts down including suspension with some WD40 along with the heads and exhaust can. I don't spray any rubber or plastic with WD40 as that can dry it out and cause it to crack. Don't put a rag in the exhaust pipe, the mice will chew it. Use a SOS pad. Then I detail/clean the hood, A-arms, seat, dash etc.
Then prop the sled up off it's skis and track and don't start it again until the next season is almost there. Some may disagree with these suggestions or have better tips to say.
These seem to work good for me. Just make sure the sled is outside your garage next fall when you fire her up. She'll smoke quite a bit at first.

Couple other tips I was taught by sledders much smarter than me....
Don't Armor-All your seat too much unless you want your butt to be slip sliding all over the place next winter. Believe me on this one fellas.

Find some old tennis balls and make cuts into them and stick them on the ends of your grips before putting the cover on. Especially when trailering your sled during the riding season. This not only keeps the grips from wearing through your cover, but it makes it alot easier to put the cover on and take it off.
Thats my $.02 anyway.
'02 MXZ 600

I JUST RIDE MINE ALL YEAR ROUND...THEN YOU DON"T GOTTA WORRY ABOUT IT ...LOL :blahblah:

See the pinned topic Summer Prep.

Whether you actually use fogging oil or put oil in the cylinders after as some of the manufacterers recommend (Polaris and Arctic Cat also do), maybe the most important thing is to make sure the engine was up to operating temp the last time it was run before it was oiled for storage. Short periods of combustion will actually introduce or create conditions that may encourage moisture.

My method uses some oil (between 50-1 and 80:1) in the last carb-fuls of fuel along with fuel stabilizer before I run the carbs empty. That trace of oil in the whole system will give some protection to the plastic and rubber components as well as the metal parts. I drain the tank afterwards and finish with a gulp of oil in each cylinder.

Since I don't have indoor storage I try to remove some of the removable parts that are readily brought indoors including the skidframe and, on the Polaris, the driven clutches. Something that shouldn't be but often gets forgotten is some grease on the shock shafts. Nothing ruins a perfectly good shock like the first ride in the fall with rust-roughened shock shafts.