nhguy
03-15-2003, 06:25 PM
I have an 86 phazer. It is boggy on the start also. I've changed the fuel pump, also a mechanic 'allegedly' changed the needles and seats. It starts first pull. Idles all day long. As soon as you try and gas it, seems to want to choke itself out. However, if I engage the choke a bit, it is responsive and I can get the rpm's up and start moving and then its fine. You can scream, but once you slow down again, it won't let you move. Can someone assist me in diagnosing, or inform me on what the jetting should be precisely? I'd would guess its the high-end jet setting that is the problem. Please advise. Thanks!
gregrobbins
03-17-2003, 09:41 PM
You say it responds better with a little choke on the bottom end? If so raise needle one position ( move clip down to raise needle) read plugs as you go :)
Phazers have butterfly carbs, so there is no needle like in a normal round or flat slide carb.
Ok, if it runs better when you pull the choke, that usually means you are lean. But that does not mean the mains are to small. The butterfly carbs in Phazers are very finicky when they are dirty and there are a lot of small passageways that may be dirty or clogged. Also make sure that your float level is set correctly, if it is too low that will also give lean symptoms. The standard pilot jet is a #95 and you usually never have to change it to a larger size unless you put a aftermarket pipe on at low elevations.
mtnpilot
05-28-2003, 01:36 AM
It is lean if choke helps. If carbs are clean, then check both air screws on top, fwd part of carbs. Turn in till lightly seated (too tight and you just ruined the needle) and back out 1 1/2 turns. Make small adjustments for best response, from here (1/8 turn equally on both.)
Bitbucket
02-10-2004, 02:57 PM
I has this exact same problem when I changed the stock carburators over to a set of 32mm Mikuni Flats. (Awsome setup once I got throught the jetting process) The pilot jets were way too lean. Assuming your stock, I would say your pilots are dirty and need to be replaced.
shawnmcgr
02-12-2004, 12:37 PM
I've had the opposite problem with the low speed circuit - too rich. To adjust spark the sled up and get it good and warm. When it's good and warm shut it down and adjust the pilot screw all the way in (not too tight) and then back out 1 1/2 turns. Spark it back up and adjust the air screw until the RPMs are at idle spec (1650 RPM I believe). When you get the proper rpm setting adjust the pilot screw slowly to get maximum rpm. When you've got your pilot setting so that engine rpm is max then re-adjust the air screw until your at 1650 rpm. I usually do one carb at a time then copy the settings from the tuned carb to the 2nd carb as a starting point. Repeat on 2nd carb.
It's important to do it when it's warm otherwise the settings will be no good on the trail.
The air screw is the plastic screw that adjusts the minimum setting for your butterfly valve (right side of fan carb on my 96 phazer). The pilot screw is a small screw on left side of carb on each carb.
With a little practice it's easy to do. My pilots are at about 1 turn out from seat. The pilot screw tends to drift with use due to engine vibration. I do this a few times a season with elevation and temp changes.
Good Luck!