Has anyone got a real good setup for weight transfer? :doh: I know it's not a drag suspension but any info would be great on what worked for you.I was told to get new coupler blocks or shave them.Any truth to this?
Thanks for any info. :D

Do you have the book to the skid? The book that I had went into some pretty good detail about weight transfer. While you'll never get it to hook like a stocker, you can make it much better. They may have some indepth info online also. Sorry I can't be more help. I had an M-10 on a Mach 1 700, but it was my wifes and I never really tried to set it up for myself.

Idooski,
Yeah I still have the book.It is brand new as of last year.I needed something a little better than the SC-10 on my 99 mxz 600.I ride on tug hill n.y. and It gets pretty bad on the weekend :p .I will have to get on to the sight or E-mail fast and see what they say.Other than the transfer i think the M-10 is an excellent ride.
thanks for the input.
Baddude :D

I know you've heard this before, but one of the reasons the M-10 rides so well is because of it's coupling capability. If you wanted to pick up on your weight transfer capabilities, it would cost you coupling, and therefor you'd be losing some of that much sought after(expensive?) ride. The coupling block length is the only adjustment available on the M-10 to control each. The shorter it is, the further it can move in it's slot, and the less coupling you will have. To complicate it further, the shorter block will also affect your ride as the springs will not be as coupled together(less coupling increases sag with no other changes).

In a fully coupled suspension, both front and rear arms are locked together. Hit a bump, front or rear, and both arms compress. For maximum weight transfer to occur, just the opposite happens. The rear arm can completely collapse without affecting the front, leaving it fully extended.... and your ski's in the air.

The bottom line is, coupling = track spin. The more you have, the more you get...
with any suspension.