lookin do do some clutch work on my 02mxz800 rer any good setups that u guys have tryed and worked good.i weigh 240lbs sled is stock exept for a can mbrp trail can.

If you are looking just for a bolt in and go type kit, I would recomend the Goodwin clutch kit for the 800rer. It is a good start to getting your sled dialed in. What I noticed with the 02 800's is that you can have two stock sleds clutched the same, and one will run better than the other. You can get good results just by "bolting in" a clutch kit but, for optimum performance you will need to fine tune to your wieght and riding style.

Brian :)

i agree with mxzwfo. a bolt in is perfect to get a little more snot to the track. keep in mind though that the stock clutching in a sled is a general set up for "most" riders. a bolt in clutch kit is a little bit more aggressive clutch set up for "most" riders. if you just want a better clutch set up than you have now, a kit is the ticket. if your looking to harness every possible horse to the track you are going to have to build a kit yourself, for you. what type of rideing do you do the most?i'm sure we can get you pretty well dialed in for what you want to achieve. this is the performance clutch tuning forum. :D

clutchman and i mostly ride on groomed trails not a big speed freak. :D and some lake running too.just want a little more top end power what would u suggest.?

what helix is in it? all things being equal, you could go up a few degrees on the angle, or the final angle, if it a multiple angle helix. it will give you a little more top end but will affect the power curve through out the shift. if you want all top end grunt then you will need to re clutch everything. if you just want more top end speed across a lake, play with the gears. my personal rule of thumb is to gear the sled as tall as posssible without affecting the holeshot, again this is all clutch components being equal, or unchanged. do you know what gears are in it? if not the cheapest route is to go up a tooth or two on the small gear, leaving the clutching alone. this will give you more top end. this is a ball park though because i have no idea how you are clutched or geared. sorry this is a bit long, your weight is an issue as well. not that you need to lose any, but your sled will react different with a 150 pounder on it. we have the summer to figure it out, and i'm shure you'll be happy in the fall on your first ride, let's keep talking about this and we will get you dialed in. :D

I have a copy of what Goodwin uses in their clutch kit, modified it some, then gave that info to Idooski last winter, and we kinda stumbled on a good thing. While it is setup more for dragging not top end, it is allot of fun in the woods.

Should we let them in on it Keith? LOL

:withstupid:

Although I modified it some from the form that it was received from Dave, it was a real fun set-up in the trails. (be ready for it when you pinch it, or you'll be looking at your own tail lights) I have to take a look at my note though. (you know, that old man memory thing again) But...I will post it today yet.

i don't normaly do this but i want to get this forum going!!!! tell your friends :D .try this 54/47 helix, new beige at b-6, 127 belt, 297 ramps, 19 or so pin weight, adjust clickers for rpm, with a red/230/410 doo spring. good trail/ditch set up.

I personally would get a hold of Dynamo^Joe he has a kit for the 800. I have his S4X kit in my zx 440 and this thing really rips. Plus his coustomer service is second to none, any questions that I've had he has been more than willing and able to answer. His kit comes with a tuning manual that is Very very informative. He has done his homework on how to tune the clutching for Ski-Doo's. He may still be on this web site if not his is on Amsnow.

i don't normaly do this but i want to get this forum going!!!! tell your friends* .try this 54/47 helix, new beige at b-6, 127 belt, 297 ramps, 19 or so pin weight, adjust clickers for rpm, with a red/230/410 doo spring. good trail/ditch set up.

Looks like you're describing a good set-up for a machine with a formula clutch there clutchman.

This is what I'm running in mine right now:
46/50 helix, Goodwin blue spring, 230/350 primary spring, arms of my own w/21.5 grams, (stock arms would be about 19.8 grams), 280 ramps.

If you're not ready to hang on, don't pinch it!

Do you mean a 46/50 or a 50/46?
These arms of you own...do you mean that you made them? If so, how much weight are they?

Do you mean a 46/50 or a 50/46?
I'm running a 46/50 reverse angle helix.

These arms of you own...do you mean that you made them? If so, how much weight are they?
I made the arms myself and they weigh in at 35 grams. I end up at 72.6 grams total weight per arm using a hollow pin that weighs in at 11.5g. The rest of the weight is adjusted in 2 of 6 different areas to choose from on the arm. The pin is left hollow with no added weight.

Originally posted by idooski@Jun 5 2003, 01:00 PM
Do you mean a 46/50 or a 50/46?
I'm running a 46/50 reverse angle helix.

These arms of you own...do you mean that you made them? If so, how much weight are they?
I made the arms myself and they weigh in at 35 grams. I end up at 72.6 grams total weight per arm using a hollow pin that weighs in at 11.5g. The rest of the weight is adjusted in 2 of 6 different areas to choose from on the arm. The pin is left hollow with no added weight.
Ok...how much does stock arm weigh....Bare Arm?...no washers/roller/pin...etc.

Im very interested. I have had two sets of arms on the drawing board for a few years now and just have never got around to making them.
I personally want the heaviest arm weight towards the pivot pin. say like opposite of a mag arm...as an analogy
Skidoo beat me to the curved arm. :angry:

a stock heavy aluminum ski doo arm weighs 39 grams by it's self. just curious why do you want the most weight near the pivot point of the arm? i have no point here, i was just wondering.. ???

I just weighed a stock arm in at 40.2 grams. The arms I made were lighter, but the weight is more evenly distributed along the whole arm.

I think the reason for having the weight toward the poivot is that the pivot point is farther from the center, thus creating more leverage against the ramps sooner in the shift curve.

I placed most of my moveable weight closer to the pivot than the pin.

Yeah, Joe... I have had a set of curved arms drawn up for almost 2 years now. I have other configurations drawn up too. Maybe we should get to gether on it sometime? :thumbsup:

Quotes Clutchman:
a stock heavy aluminum ski doo arm weighs 39 grams by it's self. just curious why do you want the most weight near the pivot point of the arm? i have no point here, i was just wondering..*


The center of gravity on a Mag arm is closer to the clutch bolt/shaft center compared to a heavier aluminum arm. Using the mag arm, the engine has to produce more rpm to force the pressure lever out from low shift positions on the primary. You have to "jazz" the throttle more to get the sled to move or jump. Visually, you see lotsa rpms with little sled movement on the bottom end of midrange.
The mag arms use less of the "meat" of the torque curve to supply upshift signal.
Regardless of how big of angle on the start of the helix....a revvy primary is a revvy primary.

I want to move away from this and have the center of gravity farther away from the roller. I want the CofG near the pivot point to just like idooski mentions have the lever push harder sooner in the shift curve; More force at lower rpms. The most important thing here is that at low rpms when the arm is tucked in, the c of g with the heavy arm is farther away from the clutch bolt center. Farther away...more force / rpm, right? Just like the Bucket O' water trick I talked about several pages back. LOL
Want to make the engine work harder so the pipe gets hotter, quicker. The engine will build its hp quickly when loaded at a lower rpm.
Now there is an advantage to this. Under fuel with this arm, the arm pushes hard, quickly. When you let off the fuel the arm will decrease its push force quickly. Quicker with less time than a std aluminum arm and even much less time than a mag arm.
Sooooooo....if the push of the arm diminishes quickly "the upshift signal diminishes quickly" then the secondary feels the torque fall off quickly and will promote the backshift signal quicker.
Can you say "toggle switch" throttle responce?

I've done this concept with Cat and Pol flyweights for about 10 yrs. But i have to start with a flyweight that is about 6 to 10 grams heavier than I want to use and start carving the flyweight up. For example, I have taken a 56g stock flyweight which engage at 5100 and replace it with a carved weight of 56g and the engagement is 4000 rpms. The new flyweight I made was originally a 62g weight. A common mod I do with 440 Cats and Pols. Then shim the spider to get the engine to engage back into the pipe and can you say HOLESHOT?? Sooper Kewl Shiit man!! :inlove:

This way here if I have a TRA arm that weighs a ton...I can perform the same exersizes yet only have to fine tune with setscrews as we all know.
The reason I drew up curved arms a few years ago, was to make a TRA arm have its C of G even closer to the pin. I have always found to go to the point that is not functional is the quickest route to find the best funtional point. you know...go forward, then come back a little. heh heh

Gawd you should've seen the look on my face when Bomber released their curved arms. :angry: My friends were howling at me again that I got beat to the punch. :cussing:

Seems like you guys seem sold on adding mass to the pivot end, enhancing a strong low shift ratio pull. Not saying I disagree, hey whatever works? But I've never heard of anyone complaining about the tra out of the hole performance, in fact they almost always will run the other brands in a short run. The complaints I hear are " had him but he walked on me on the far end". That said, one would surmise that getting the tra to pull at high shift ratios would be the challenge? If it takes a big reverse angle cam, so be it, but is this not an indicator of poor high shift ratio primary force? Do you have any trouble slipping the belt in the secondary at high shift ratios? pretty cool you made your own arms!