From the day that my 02 MXZ 800 (non X) it has seem to bind. What I am trying to say is that it is very tight and will not return to the top. It will sag a good 4". I have tightrn the rear blocks to its tightest position (more spring pressure) and I have also done this to the front shock, and it still sags. I have a good friend here that has an 02 MXZ 700 Adrenalin that returns almost to full top after you get on it and bounce. When you do that on the 800 it is stiff as can be with the springs in the lightest position as well as the tightest. Could it be binding anywhere? Has anybody run across this before. His 700 rides alot better than my 800 also. It has to be something binding. What do you think?


Brian

Brian, Mine does the same thing!! Mine goes down the train tracks like crap, It nearly bucks me right off. The other thing ive noticed is when I was putting the sled away I had dollys under the front skis and nothing on the back, and the back suspention goes limp, you can lift it up 4 inches before the suspention hits the top of its travel. Then when you let it go, it just drops down till the coupler block hits the stop!!! Whats up! My only guess is the rear springs are weak....does anyone else have any ideas???

At least from Nicks description I can say "Welcome to coupling fellas".


I first noticed a similar occurence when I got my 96 Polaris Ultra with the xtra-10. I almost died taking it off the trailer the first time, I thought something broke.

As for MXZWFO, maybe pull the skid and make sure all of the pivots work well. Maybe you got one with alot of weld slag and the pivots are binding as you said.

Maybe the dealer never pumped it full of grease during prep.

Anythings possible.

all newer suspensions are set up with "sag". 3 "to 4" is not alot.

Take the skid out to find which part might be hanging up. If you find the spot check for corrosion and regrease. I know alot of sleds that the arms get bent ever so slightly and that can create a hang. If this happens there are 2 things you can do, replace the bent parts or if you are lucky take the inner rods out and have about 1/32 of an inch on the middle taken off. Note it works best to use a lathe but if you are carefull a benchgrinder would work. SWRules

For the past two seasons i rode a 02 MX Z adrenaline. I never experianced the problem that mxzwfo is talking about. Mine always returned to full extension. Sometimes you had to just bounce it a little and other times it would return all by it self. Sled had sag once i sat on it but never just sitting there unloaded and I never kept the sled overly harsh as far as ride. I would pull the whole skid and go through it. Something is definately binding.

Track too tight, maybe?

Are the spring blocks that are attached to the rails pointed the right way?

your sag would depend on how your springs are set.

If nothing else you've tried has worked and nothing in the rear skid has hung up then you should check and make sure that your rear shock (and your center one for that matter) has their full charge of nitrogen. If it's not up to speck then it could easily cause what you're describing.

flynn

As soon as I get my sled back up and running, I will go through the rear step by step, and post all of my findings. I will also go through a complete chassis alignment and detail what I have found there.....STAY TUNED!!!!! :)



Brian

hey mxzwfo

I know exactly what your talkin about. My brother has a 00 mxz 700 same problem, the susps seems like it binds about 1/2 way down, we havn't been able to find the prob yet. it doesn't seem to rebound all the time either. last year he thought it might be week springs, still didn't seem ta help though. Keep me posted on what u find and or what to check out

thanx

This makes me wonder if SD had a bad run of 121's in 02. I havent heard that this to be a problem with the gades.

Last season I remember giving Nicks800x some advice on how to set up his suspension. Nothing seemed to work for him the way it should have, and I beleive that some of the adjustments that should have helped actually made matters worse for him. His problems realy had me confused and I tapped out all my knowledge trying to help, so back then I concluded that something had to be worn, bent, broken or just plain wrong from the factory.

Other than that could the dealers have put the wrong bolt in the wrong hole when it was un-crated. Alot of dealers around here pay there own kids or HS kids $25 bucks to assemble sleds when the snow flies and the crap kits the fan and are trying to push 10-15 or more sleds out the door a day. My point being that your sleds may have not neccasarily been put together properly. All the suspension is unbolted so that it can be collapsed in the crate. I have seen the final result of untrained incompetant help and what can be screwed up on a brand new sled straight from the box.

It will be interesting if someone comes up with an answer to this.

Todd

Todd, since my post here back in june I removed my skid to inspect and install new sliders..I didnt find anything!!! One thing I have noticed, When I had the dollies on the front (rear susp. sagged) I droped the strap one hole and it seemed to help. Maybe by having the strap tight its pulling the rear skid up.. ;) I dont know, I guess I will find out when it snows...later Nick

Well guys, i think i found the bindin problem.

This last weekend my bro and i got the sleds out from sleepin. He's got a '00 mxz 700, we've havn't been able to find out why on his sled the susp. seems to go bout 1/2 way down and hit a hard spot. Like it was binding up. My sled, a '02 mxzx 600 goes down super smooth till it bottoms out.

Thinkin they were diff. bein a sc-10 II compared to a sc-10 III. We thought it was his shocks or something else, we pulled his susp apart piece by piece till it would couple smoothly, ( It Never Did ) Last year he pulled his susp apart and checkd everything over, nothing was rough or binding in movement. Finally we started comparin my susp to his. found out that the control arms are identical , the only diff was the rear shock mount location, shock angle, and the couplin rods (single vs dual). we couldn't figure out then why mine would work and his wouldn't.

The only diff we found on the sleds was his rear susp mountin bolt was a 1/2 in. further back then mine. It seems as if skidoo rivited the support braces too far back, limiting the front to rear coupling action. (causing the hard spot) we're gonna redrill his mountin location and try it. With everything else being identical between the two, it should work.

Thats just our observations.

If anyone else has tried this or heard of this before, let me know your thoughts.
Hope it helps out.

Upon futher investigation, one of the big diff we found between the II and the III is the rear arm is longer (reason for the diff in hole distance) We tried his susp under my sled and it coupled fine except it was already partially coupled (in order for it to be able to be bolted up) = not getting full travel. We were gonna try goin a 1/4 in. instead.

Anybody got a answer or a fix?

No real fix as of yet. I did find the front arm bolt was WAY too tight. I had to do some modifing but now its right. The next thing I want to do is get the rear shock rebuilt and revalved to work a little better with my lard butt. (220lbs dressed). If that dont take care of the problem I will install the stiffer torsion springs in the rear.

Brian

hey,
the dealer can order stiffer springs this can get you back up to the proper ride height, they have a cross refernce in the paper skidoo catalogs, i don't think it's in the e-microfiche. as for the binding it's probably the coupling.
later