I took out my P/Y spring last night from heelclicker set up and noticed both ends on the inside of the first coils are flattened out quite a bit. Where the 2 end coils compress against each other. Anybody understand what I mean?? I'm just wondering if this is normal wear?? Measurement on the good coils( middle) is about .193. The end ones are .140.

Thanks

check the free length of the spring, just the spring out of the clutch. new it was 158 mm.

I would be more concerned of the free length of the spring which is 158mm. New springs will take set after some use.If in doubt change it anyway. I change mine every season regardless of miles.It's cheap maintiance to keep clutches in tune.I'm not sure if your clutch has it or not,but there is a plastic sleeve that fits between the spring cover and spring to prevent coil binding.This is a cheap part available at any SKI-DOO dealer.

I do change springs once a season. The way the coil ends look has me wondering why?? Granted it is a carbon steel spring but I have never had a spring look like this. I also have the plastic sleeve. I need to get some pics going.

Thanks

pics would help us a out a ton, if possible.

Hopefully this works....

and another...

that looks like a defective spring. ive never seen wear like that.

is that spring repainted?

The pictures do help to understand your problem.I'm not totally fimiliar with the Heel Clicker kit. I was trying to find more about them myself. My "theory" is the HC's are creating so much centrificul force in the clutch,the spring is actually coil binding but the plastic sleeve is holding it place,causing the coils to rub together. Instead of being forced out the side of the spring cover.The HC's are known to have a strong grip on the belt,or so I'm told. This just my opinion + which may not be what is happening here. . Were your rpms holding at shift out or were they moving up and down?

No the spring has never been repainted. Was new this time last year. 1500 miles later... Not looking good.

My rpms stay steady at 8000 (tach). It will vary a little depending on snow conditons.

I took the clutch and assembled it without the spring. Just the washer and spring cup. The sheaves are touching so it is at max shift. I got a measurment from washer to up inside the cup, where the spring would sit at full shift. Then compressed the spring in a vise to that measurement of full shift. Almost all the coils are bound except for the middle section. I would assume the spring is NOT completely coil bound. So the wear must have come from the force of the clicker kit?? Dosen't look like vibration was a factor. The first few end coils seem to be almost always in contact with each other when compression begins.

I'm still not positive what's going on.

fun fun fun.

That looks like a defective spring. Is it a Doo spring or a HC spring? I know several who run the Doo blue/yellow with HCs

It is a doo spring. The free length is within spec.

Maybe give SUPER TORQUER a call and see if they ever seen this problem with their kit. Their number is 810-694-5493 or WWW.SUPERTORQUER.COM

are you running a stock tra clutch?

No, this a heelclicker set up with the stock spring. Purple yellow.

it is a TRA?

Yes it is a TRA.

This is just a thought. Are you sure the spring is purple/yellow and not a yellow/purple which has 100-320 spring pressure.The start of the spring compression will be at the end coils,and because weight can be adjusted on the heel, engagement could be where it was stock.Maybe the softer presure at the start is being squeezed to hard,and as it reaches the finishing pressure isn't allowing the coils to touch.Just an idea! You have an interesting problem here!

send your spring to hc after a phone call to them. that is definately a defective sprang.

a spring is supposed to compress equally all the way, not ends to center. try compressing one in a drill press and see what you get.

Strange things can happen when things are modified!

Pete,

Your situation is not that uncommon with the purple/yellow spring. I have had it happen with both setups (HC and TRA) You can use a 160-290 instead to help eliminate some coil bind. It is not detrimental to the sled but does cause some parts to wear faster. You should also check your bushings in the spring cup as well as in the movable sheave. These busings cause the spring to slide on it'self and "lap" itself. I have run the ppl/yllw spring for over 3000 miles and the spring tabs were almost flat. Some new bushings and a new spring and things were normal again.

GLH

Thanks for the info Damon.

Thanks to all that have helped!