Is it worth the money to put vforc3 reeds in my 2000 machz. Is the clutching just as good stock or can it get better with some adj. Ive gone down to 290 jets it had 310's in it is this safe 3 sizes down. Any help would be great

yeah you should look at clutching before reeds... i dont have reeds and my sled is a strong runner. i had even tried a set of pipes and still did not see enough of a gain for the $$.. this is something i like to run on my 2000... i run a pink white with the stock ramps and 19.5grms pins and 27-44 gearing... now when you can get good traction and shorter runs then i will use 286`s with the same spring and 25-44 gearing... i also have a b&b can and a 1.25 preditor track.. so for very little $$ i would say clutch first then the can second and the track 3rd..... so reeds...lol... there are more ways to gain.....;)

Thank you machz69 i'll try that this season if you could tell me what stock gearing is plus did you set up your secondary any differnt. Its nice t see someone in this world still has a triple.

I put V-Force in my 2000 and did not see enough gains to justify the cost.
I would put the 310's back, you are asking for trouble with 290's. These are some facts I learned while I was searching for the same thing you are after:
00 MachZ has 26 degrees more advanced timing over any other Mach's built [hotter], all other Mach's after 2000 have a different air box [inside] and run 290 main jets with everything else the same.
Remember, it takes fuel to make power, to a certain extent. I have found that my main jetting is about right but the needles could be richer by 1 e-clip for those long mid-range runs [temp rises].
Clutching......still working on that, got to get that heat out!

yeah with mikadoo on this.. i have checked my jetting closely and it always seems to be right on the money so i would go back to the stock. stock gearing is 26-43... i leave my secondary stock you can get in to trying different cams but that will get costly. do the other things i have mentioned and this will get you running strong then get in to the secondary as there will be some testing involved.. now is your sled a standard machz or rer? my sled is rer.. so if it is standard you could go with a straight 50* cam or a 46 black ice cam. oh another thing you can look in to is a cudney shim kit that will net you some good h.p. but again clutch it, the B&B can and the track 1.25 preditor. or depending where you are mabe just stud it... 144. is what i run on the stock track. let us know how you make out

This is one o the few times I`m in agreement, I think. The reeds doo make a perceivable improvement, but to buy v force, defintly not. If your dying to buy reeds, maybe try different petals, and that I`m not sure on, but they cost less. The little difference high dollar reeds make, and I know most people will disagree, is not worth jack. I dont know what helix is stock in your sled, if its a 50/47 or a 50 leave it, especially if its a 50. You owe it to yourself to try 280 ramps (especially if you WERE thinking about buying reeds), maybe with a 185/410, a 230/410 or a 250/460 and experimenting with 19.5 to 22 grams of pin and 16 to 24 lbs preload with a 24/44 or 23/44 or 23/43 gear. Its more of a drag race set up , but it does backshift, the only drawback is it probably wont lake run for sit. The thing about jetting is dont sweat the small stuff, between melting down and running 2 jets richer, power is more or less the same, a trade off betweeen a little torque and alittle horsepower, the sled that still runs wins everytime........old age and conservitism speaking here... good luck.

I`m surprised that there were not alot of opinions saying go v force. It seems everybody ges that route first thing.

Thanks everyone for the inf. Keep it coming as to machz69 ? mine is a plan jane mach z not the rer. machz69 is that gearing you run is it slightly higher. I believe my cam is a 50/47 if so you say leave it alone or go to a striaght 50. And as far as the jetting goes if on the 2000 mach z the timing is more adv. iam going back to stock thanks for all the inf. One more ? more machz69 is your sled setup kinda a lake runner becouse my friend has a mach z tech plus bone stock but he cant get his top speed back he's getting around 115 thats it before he was around 120 right now hes getting beat on top end bad by a 03 xcr 800.

I just bought a 2000 mach z motor with delta v force reeds and the shim kit any Idea what kinda horse power that would hold? thanx

yeah mach i would take a shot at saying that the h.p. there would be close to say 165-168h.p... give or take a few. yeah thats right stay with your stock or go with a 50* bombi cam or a 46* black ice cam.... its a 46 that shifts like a 50... its coated but will still have the back shift of a 46. but if you cant find that then a straight 50 bomb. and yea that gearing is just a little higher its closer to a tcat gearing. its not as high as just going with a 27 on top. i find that with a 27 its just too tall. now your buddy`s sled thats a tech right so he has an rer right?... if he does get him to check out the primary bushings and to change out the secondary spring as they tend to wear out very fast and decrease in performance wich would give you what he has. just not as fast as it was but don't know why?.... thats why.yeah i find that this set up works all the way around. i can still drag a little and speed run and radar. now if im just going to drags then i gear back down and i go with the 286`s for more punch off the line. what is your buddy running for a track? he should not be getting beat by an xcr

Machz69 my friend does have rer. He's track is stock with no picks the xcr is stock as far as we know with no studs just plan out runs him after 100-105 mph. Machz69 do you think that your primary setup would work with a plan jane machz with if i did which i think i will by what your saying go with the striaght 50 from bomb. what are you running for top speed with your machz with rer.

yup that set up will work on a reg machz. but im sure your friends sled does need the rer spring. i am running a 1.25 preditor track so i will lose some top end but i do run 115-118 mph with the 1.25 track. im planning on running either the stock again or a speed track when radar running this year. another thing that really does work well is the B&B can.

Machz69 should i leave my track studded with 144 or take them out for all out long lake runs should be alot lighter with out them in. Were can i find a b&b can. Also what do you think about running 290 mains someone had posted i should go back to 310's that the 2000 machz's the timing was advanced 26 degress more than any of the z's.

im not so sure about the stud thing.....lol.. i had them in right away and have beaten a lot of machines... not bragging or showcasing but my machz has been at the top of the food chain at many drag,radar runs. if i did not finish on top one day i would find what was not working then finish on top the next day. and that was with the studs in it so i would say leave them in but if you have the time it might not be a bad test to find out for sure as it would make sense that you should be faster with out the extra weight but then again the extra traction to keep the speed up so again ??..... now for the jetting thing go back to the stock for what you may or may not gain on a dyno you will never notice in a real world run. take this as a point i only go down to a 280 main on asphalt in the summer so you do the math....lol...the B&B can you can find at royal distributing. this is a real world gain i have tested this on cosdra`s timing system and i think its the biggest bang for the buck the can is lighter and leave less heat under the cab. what is it your looking at doing?? just trail or some drags? some radar? or just all around

I would sooner go with boyceen reeds before Vforce just because of the cost savings.

The V force dont give you enough power to justify the cost but if reeds do anything boyceens will do it and for a lot less.

machz69 i think i'll run them without studs to try since i need to replace them after a few good lake runs i'll put new studs in then ride the rest of the year out. Most of my riding is going to be trail and lake running i mean long lake running not short runs is your b&b can loud i would rather not listen to a load exh. all day long. Once again thanks for all the inf.

Machz69 the ski-doo dealer in town larry,s small engines dynoed the d+d can a couple years ago on the 700 and 800 twin and the 800 triple and they all LOST 1-3 hp on stock engines.As far a reeds go the v-force 2s gain about 3-5 hp on the dyno with crankshop pipes on a 809 but with stock pipes there is no improvement.

well its either you gain or you don't? with the reeds on your not gonna gain 3 h.p. with pipes then loose the 3 h.p. because you went back to stock pipes?? as far as the B&B can i don't believe that either as i have proved this time and time again on the gun and the timer. so if you gain 2-3mph on top and almost a second in the 660 on snow and still lose 3hp ill take it.....lol. and then now for the 3-5 h.p. with reeds??? i have went out with a guy we ran about ten runs from bottom all the way up then went back and installed the reeds. then went back out and i can tell you that there was no visible gain. but there was a definite gain when we ran the sleds with the stock can then went to the B&B can. the we tried the 3x3 emery can and it was just in between the stock and the B&B. it was not as quick as the stock but faster then stock but the B&B was quicker and faster. so these are the tests that i have done and thats all i can tell you.