Hi guys, I made up this little slide show to help out those who have never taken apart a TRA clutch before. I hope this helps you out. :D

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And here's my puppy dog, just cuz she's a cool ##### :D

one thing I want to add about the arrows for alignment.I have taken several of these clutches apart that the moveable sheave arrow does not align itself up perfect with the stationary notch,thus a quick look before dis-assembly I recommend so not to confuse you later ;) .

:D Great job Rad Chad ! good pix and explanations.

...but I still don't know HOW they get the caramel into the Caramilk bar!

very well done!! now how about secondary's ? :)

HA HA good one Zog, twolf, the secondary's comin' :D

Thanks Chad. Great info.

I'll look forward to the secondary pics.

Nice job Chad. The picts make it alot clearer than the words alone

Clutch newbie ? --Before your first step, how tough is it to get the clutch off the motor, should it slide right off?

For the s and f chasis, you need to pull the entire clutch off to get it out. You need a puller and clutch holder tool. For the ZX chasis if the splines on the end of the clutch are not too tight, you can just slide the outer sheave assembly off, leaving the inner sheave attached to the engine.
Clutch puller for 454,494,599,670,699,800,779,809, part # 529 022 400
Clutch holder tool part # 529 027 600

Thanks, great illustration SWRules

Well, got my puller yesterday, so I have it off and torn apart. No problem. Shop just called saying my new spring is in, so I can reassemble tonight.

Two questions though;

1) How much slop is acceptable in the rollers? Mine aren't real loose, but they definitely have some slop in them. Otherwise they look fine.

2) When putting the clutch back on the sled, do you use any kind of antiseize or just clean and slide back on? Also, the manual doesn't call for any locktite on the clutch bolt, should I use any, or just torque it to the spec given dry?

Thanks,

FishHog

A little slop is acceptable. If you grab them and think "holy crap those are loose" then change them.
When putting the clutch on, NO antiseize, just clean and torque to spec with nothing on the bolt either.

Excellent, thanks for the response Chad.
I just finished cleaning, and was just starting to assemble, and thought I would come in and check for any responses.

Appreciate all the good info you provided. I'm no longer a clutch Virgin.

:p

FishHog

Hey I need help adjusting for deflection in the secondary. Never done it and I dont want to mess it up. Hope you will post pics for the secondary.

Any type of lube on the rollers, buttons or arms? Or once cleaned just reassemble. Great post, thanks

Great info. Chad

Appreciate the time you spent putting this together for our benefit.

Jeff SWRules :D

No lube on anything. Just put her back together clean.
Thanks. I enjoyed dooing it. :D

Thats a great post, step by step and pics. Myself I have the thumbdoctor helping me, but this is great for others. SWRules

Hi Chad, My TRA clutch is 'knocking' a bit and I'd like to take it off and service it. I've removed the center bolt and find the clutch slides outboard on it but doesn't clear the belly pan. Is there a way to get it out without removing the engine?? I'm assuiming the inboard sheave can remain in place while the clutch is serviced.

Also ... I can't seem to get to your other slides. Only the one showing the tools is visible??

And hey ...just cause it's a Skandic doesn't mean we're totally tame. We have an MXZX as well. Hope to hear from you Chad.
Jay

For your Scandic you will need a puller to remove the inner sheave as well. That is the only way it will clear to come out of the sled. Unless you take the bellypan off. LOL
I don't know why you can't get the pics. I'll e-mail em to ya.
later

Chad you are now schooling me on the internet. and even pics to Notice I have not called to get some advice in the last 2 days. It helps with pics.
Thanks Cherad
Now if I could Just figure out the Berakes

Good post! thx!