Had the ad b kit installed, since then it rides harder than it should. The stock springs were not made to work for this type of coupling. Installed a softer front spring and was wondering the best way to change out the back two springs. Can this be done by just dropping the rear of the skid? or does the whole susp. have to come out? Thanks


Some how I can't respond to my own posts so here is a reply to my reply.
Block is on the softest setting. nothing is binding or froze up. Everything is greased every 300 to 500 miles. The skidoo racing handbook has three different springs available soft, stock and hard. The stock springs are designed for a uncoupled suspesnion f to r. More pressure is required for the rear arm. With the ad biovin kit the front and rear is coupled. Thus borrowing spring pressure from the front arm= stiff. With this kit one should use lighter spring pressure to optimize ones ride. The instructions that came with the kit strongly advise to use the lightest settings because of this. as well as getting the best ride and handling. The acm also has to be tightened. Before I had the kit I had my spring settings on the hardest setting. Now they are on the lightest but seems to ride harder, the "sit in" has really declined. Any ways you do have to remove the two idler wheels to get to that block to remove. thanks.



How does one respond to ones own post?? Before I had my kit my sled would lift the skis very high, especially with the acm loose. 583 sledder, You have a lot more power than both of those sleds so you are going to spin more. The best way to win a race is not necessarily full throttle. Lifting the front end is funner but doesn't mean the sled handles better. My sled has a 1.5 track and was very tippy without this kit, it hooked up good but also dug in when sliding sideways. With this kit it was less tippy.

I take it by your info. that you must be a very light rider if #1 setting is still to stiff?
I dont think they make "lighter" springs just heavier.
Yes, you have to remove the 2 back bolts and drop it down [only way possible]. You also have to remove the block the spring slides in after you remove the second from the front idler wheel.
I found it a little stiff too. Need #3 for aggressive riding and #2 for easy trail cruising.
Are you sure your suspention isn't bound up from not greasing or some suspention parts bent? If the ACM arm was froze it would ride stiff.

I'm glad you posted this. I haven't installed my A.D. kit yet, and I think my rear shock needs to be rebuilt. Didn't know if it was the shock or the springs or both, because when I push down on the back end of the sled it doesn't come back up by itself. When it was new I had a hard time getting it soft enough (I weight about 140).

So to make a short story long :p , should I wait to see how it is after I install the kit before doing anything else to the suspension? I'd hate to have to pull the skid twice if I don't have to; opinions?

1. Jaqui you can't rebuild the shocks on your sled (unless they aren't stock)

2. To change out the rear torsion springs follow the procedur Mikadoo laid out for you. Its the only way to do it. Get yourself an impact wrench to save some headaches when dropping the suspension...

I'm looking forward to seeing what the Boivin kit will do to my sled's ride as well Jacqui, except I'm on the other spectrum as I weigh 250 lbs and I always had to have my suspension on the stiffest setting. I'd wait and see about changing out the shocks.

Hey guys I hate to bust your bubble but that AD Bovin upgrade for the SC-10 is not all its cracked up to be. I weigh 240 and I always had the spring set on the lightest setting and I never bottomed it even with some decent jumping. Its a great suspension for that. But aas far as trail riding I think it is down right dangerous. I cant count the number onf times I have almost been bucked off of that thing. And not to mention the damage it did to my back, brutal! It was so bad I didnt think I would be able to snowmobile anymore. I broke down and bought a M-10 ( i know its a lot of money) but it turned my mxz into a totally different machine. I cant imagine riding on that old sc-10 with the ad bovin kit.

Maybe I should explain a little. the kit couples the suspension so that both arms of the rear suspension work together. sounds good right? its makes it a LOT stiffer than the stock suspension. as I mentioned above I weight 240. And as far as reducing kick back, I dont think so. The shocks on the mxz dont really have any dampening because they are made for jumping. and they work greaat for that. But a long day on a bumpy trail and you are toast.

One example of a typical trail ride for me. Imagine flying along with your buddies down the trail, you guys are really moving and then you dont see this dip in the trail, your legs go flying up over your head and you look like Blair Morgan doing his superman stunt. This happened often. It has never happened once with my m-10. If you are young and like to do a lot of jumps this is great, you can really beat the hell out the sc-10 and come back for more. If you are in your 30's like me, rough, real rough. Hope you have a good chiropractor.

Best bet would be to by some aftermarket shocks to go with it so you can tune in the amount of dampening or scrap it and buy an m-10 or the ad bovin suspension. Sold my old sc-10 for $400.

I was thinking of replacing the shocks next year. Dave, that's the first time I've heard of something really negative to say about the upgrade kit, though I always had my the springs at the stiffest level and I still bottomed out, maybe the springs are tired. I guess I'll find out when the snow flies as to how the kit works for me.

I had a 98 MXZ and put on the AD Bovin upgrade. I couldn't tell any difference. A wast of money...

I bought my sled last February and it had that a.d. kit on it. I always felt something was different when riding it compared to my brother's formula 500 and his friends mxz 440. I could never launch out of the hole and I always seemed to spin off the line more than anyone. I took off the A.D. and it really improved the way I like to ride. It 's also my first sled so I don't know if that's how its supposed to be or not. I'm also changing my track next week, so I'll see how it feels without it and a new traxck.

Dave, I weigh the same as you and have never experienced any of the problems you described.
The Bolvin kit is an awsome work of plastic! After putting it on my my first SC-10 a 96 SS 670 then to a 97 700 Mach and now on my 2000 Flll 800 I couldn't imajine riding without it. One ride on my 2000 and it was put on the next morning!
You say you can ride on #1 and never ever bottom out? Either you dont weigh 240#'s or someone put a pair of heavy duty fatboy springs on your sled.
Comparing an M-10 to a SC-10 is apples and oranges so no point of even going their.
Someone mentioned poor hole shots? If you adjust your ACM you can have 2' wheelies all the way down to no wheelies if you want but you cant have it both ways all the time.
An M-10 is a great mogal mashing suspention but that's it, no good for top end and no good for racing!

Not sure if this helps but on the mt. sc10 I have moved the part the spring slides thru on the rail to a factory drilled hole that is farther out on the end of the spring.

Hey Mikadoo,
Believe me I do weight 240. And the springs were stock. I had this checked out more than once. I tried several different set ups and I was really disappointed with it. Just like a lot of other people you hear all of the good things about this product and I feel like the stock suspension was better. I had the shocks replaced thinking it might have been those and there was still no improvement. I know its not fair to compare the m-10 with the the sc-10 but after spending some time on the m-10 i cant understand why people would dump good money into beefing up a peice of crap like the sc-10. Dont get me wrong, i'm glad that you are satisfied with the ad arms, everybody has their own experiences and opinions. i'm just stating mine.