there appears to be two mounting holes for the top of the front shock. there is quite a bit of difference between them. what do they do? mine is in the top now. what happens if i go to the bottom?

also on the slide rails there are 3 possible locations for the bottom of the rear scissor, mine is in the middle(stock). whats the difference? can i get more coupling by going to the front hole?

what do these two adjustments do?

TIA, mike

Haven't messed with that top shock mount. The lower rocker mount position is something I've played with a little. The rear hole give the rear arm a little more leverage, that equals a little stiffer ride, a little less coupling.

Anyone messed with the lower FRONT rocker position?

i want mine more coupled. i think im going to use the forward hole. i still am wondering about the front shock top location.

Just a guess, but if you're looking for weight transfer, thinking that top position for the front is going to be going the wrong way...

Are you planning on setting the sled up for use on the lake only, or do you need to keep some weight up front for the twisties?

i want to race on snow and be able to ride it to the race. i want it more coupled because it tends to buck me off the seat alot. so i ride standing up. im getting sick of standing up so much. i dont want to be the "cool guy" whose sled wheelies really high because ive wooped many wheelie sleds. long story short ive got a few people gunning for me in the snow races, so im trying to improve my sled.

The snow races, are they drags?

More coupling = less traction off the line and coming out of corners hard, are you ready for that?

If it's bucking you off, your springs are set too stiff, or you are using too much coupling for your spring settings. That's the best I can tell you for sure right now.

I'm playing (or would like to be/was when the season ended last year) with a fully coupled setup on my '02 XC8X. It handles like it's on rails, but the ride is terrible no matter what I do with the standard rear suspension springs. When it's fully coupled all 3 springs are working together so things start getting pretty stiff even when using the lightest settings. Shock is out now being revalved and eliminating the PPS function. We'll see what happens from here when the snow flies. Next step
will be lighter springs, lighter than the standard.....and I'm no lightweight at 280.

Good luck.

yes, snowdrags.
my sled transfers weight well. i dont need more i would prefer less.

<i dont need more i would prefer less. >

For less transfer, you want to decrease the distance from your rocker arms to the RRSS. This is where it starts getting touchy. That&#39;s going to start compromising both your transfer AND ride as you go forward with the RRSS. It&#39;s going to start getting stiffer as you close up that distance also. You&#39;ll notice a big difference in how aggressive you can get in the corners with your skis still firmly planted if the center spring is set loose enough, even to the point where you can completely blow out traction in the rear as you approach being fully coupled. Lots of stuff to balance out here for your riding style. No one setting will do it all.

Frwrd. hole softer ride more transfer, rear hole, stiffer ride less transfer. Haven,t played with frt. shock mounting holes

We were messing with that top front shock mounting position recently. It&#39;s about shock speed. In the bottom/forward position, the shock is at more of an angle to the skid, less damping, lower shock speed. Top/rear position leaves shock closer to vertical resulting in more damping/higher shock speed. We wound up using this position as the preferred setting for trail work after comparing the 2 settings over identical back to back runs on a 35 mile loop we like to play on. FWIW

thanks mhicks. im currently in the front hole for the scissor pivot. what i have noticed is the suspension transfers too fast and unloads the track. i hope to test all 3 locations saturday. i will hopefully be tuning again this weekend. im tuning just for snowdrags now. mike