there are a few methods ive tried and some i want to. i was wondering what works in snow drags. i have around 160hp xc 800 polaris.

ive tried
gearing higher-did not work, ended up gearing down alot.
straight 34° helix-now this helped the most yet.
camoplast finger track-it wears fast but, man it hooks!
suspension adjusting-i dont think i can gain anymore here.

not tried
sucking the belt-if my belt has alot of slack will it still leave smoothly?
straight 36° helix-spun too much, might try with sucking the belt.
shorter belt-this will get it in the driven more but will it work?

anybody race on snow here?

im pretty much set on the staight helix, im having a 38° and 40° made.

TIA mike

ps i will not be putting a longtrack on it.

tifa, I've fooled around with clutching alot, and from my experience, I would suggest you use the taller gearing (trail gearing) as short gearing on med packed snow with a powerful motor just provides too much torque too fast. I would also recommend that engine alignment and belt deflection be set perfectly (I don't recommend loosening belt deflection as it will affect whole shift pattern). Also, jet properly for air conditions (make most power you can). Suspension should have enough track pressure at front of rear suspension (loosen limiter strap) and set rear of suspension to weight transfer sufficiently, but not too much (5"-10" ski lift) is plenty on takeof for snow. You could advance timing a little for more bottom and midrange power. Now, the biggest change I recommend for snow, is in the primary clutch. If you have a very strong setup already on packed ground, follow this basic setup, but find a primary spring with a much lower engagement tension and same finish tension. This will lower engagement 400-500 rpm (possibly causing a mild bog) and load the motor quickly which will usually launch hard on med packed snow without spinning track violently, then rev up to proper rpm's for the strong mid-top end. Also, the secondary can be left the same or you can go to a lower start angle of cam and same finish angle along with a little looser twist tension, which also helps load engine quickly and shift up fast but lugs engine enough to keep it from reaching max. rpms right away, decreasing track spinning on takeof. What you want when launching, is low engagement, rpm to climb up to approx. 200-300rpm below max. h.p. rpms, then within first 100' to climb up to max. h.p. rpms. for rest of race.
Sorry for the long explanation, but hope this helps !
Just my opinion ! :p

and your opinion is very good. i have a cat spring now with 143-290. the stock spring was 160-310. i have the black/green 120-340 on the shelf to try. id have to change more to run that. dont be afraid to tell me what you think, too many people think they know it all....i dont!