:) Here's the secondary process for those who have never done it.
You can doo this without the spring compressor tool but it requires 2 people to hold things for you.
Enjoy w00t

:D

:hallo5:

:hallo7:

:hallo13:

:hallo6:

:hallo4:

:hallo2:

:hallo8:

:devil:

:hallo12:

yup that should do it ....nice pics

:)

Hold on there Mach, still postin'. Man this dial up sucks.

:D here's the guide to find different sping preload #'s

And here's my puppy dog again. :inlove:

again very well done i just have one question

i see 2 cases of beer 1 case of bush with 1 case of budweiser on top

which one is the prefered beer for after this job?

:hallo2:

w00t heh heh, Bud is my first choice, but up here in Canada beer is expensive (34 bucks a case) so Busch gets thrown into the mix every now and then (28 bucks a case) It's all good. I also like ot dip into the whisky every now and then. mmmmmmmmm whiskey :p

Excellent.

This is a job, that I think I'm going to tackle this fall.

FishHog

Go for it Fishhog.
Chad helped me through it this summer and that was without the picts. No problems though

Good luck

I think you should get an RER secondary off of Mikey P to show tuners who know nothing of the RER...show dem how to doo eet.

I am sure you have an ACat secondary, and I could lend you a Polaris secondary to continue....

The Polaris secondary may not be needed as it is nearly the same as the Dooey, but I think the RER and ACat would be an impressive completion to this slide show :D

Wot choo tink?....YA DINK! :devil:

I just did my RER secondary, should have taken some pics.
Until now, I was a clutch virgin, and even though it was slightly different, with the above pics, it was an easy process.

Now if I could just get my clutch puller in, I can tackle the primary.

FishHog

Great presentation, but I couldnt read the black letters on some of the pics. I made my own clutch tool using a big bolt and some washers and nuts. Cost about $2.50. Works good for taking off the primary spring too. Great job Chad.

I ahve a 95 formula stx, i just blew out the clutch with an air gun for now but want to clean it a bit better. Is there possibly a way to just remove the clutch and then lace it in some sort of solvent rather than taking it all aprt as i do not have all those tools that are shown?????

Yo need a puller to take it off. So if you ordered a puler, you should get the forks as well then you can pull it apart. You do not need to remove the spring to clean it out good.

does this method go for a 98 mxz 583 secondary also? because my secondary looks a little bit differnt than the one in the pics. i am trying to install a dyoport z helix and the red dynoport spring and no matter what i set it at it reads 20lbs on the scale. the tech at dynoport said to run it at 23lbs but i cant get that. and how much do i turn the clutch to get the right lbs (like 1/4 of a turn or 1/5 and so on)thanks for any help you can give me

Yes this is the same as the 583 clutch.
Take a marker and mark on the outside of the sheave where the slider in the clutch is. Then Mark on the helixwhere the start of the angle is. Put it together part way, then turn the sheave so the marks go past each other a bit. Then push the helix down and you know the are in the right spot. Use the tesion chart to adjust the spring pressure. If you have 20lbs with B-6, then use A-5 to gain a few more lbs. etc.
:D

Thanks again Chad.

BTW - The Rottie pics are awesome. Especially, the sleeping pup.

Jeff

This may be a stupid question but it is better than not knowing. How does one determine spring pressure for a particluar engine, is there a chart. OR can it be many different pressures and will change the shiftout?

Spring pressures are determined by what you want, and what your engine needs. A drag racer generally uses less spring pressure and deep snow uses more. It's all in the testing you do for the conditions you ride in.
This is my new pup Freddy. His mother is my other Rotti. They're great. :D

That was great, thanks. I have done this a few times before, the first time i messed up by not turning the two halves. When i drove the sled it was like popping the clutch on a car every time i started off. Love to see Center to Center and deflection instructions. thanks again.

Great post dude on both primary and seconary's.
I too would like to see RER stuff as well.
Great shots of the dogs, very nice dog.
I have 2 American Pitbulls.

Dog gotta luv them.
Scott

am i glad i found this site, a little late cause i just striped down and cleaned my secondary without the aid of pictures. looks to me this place is going to be great for info

In my ski-doo manuals it say`s to take 2 readings to determine the secondary spring pressure.First reading like you said and second when letting pressure off clutch with scale ,take a reading when clutch starts to move.Add these two readings up and devide by 2 to get your tension.Jst my 2cents

For those asking about RER secondaries, they're not that bad, but you have to have some kind of a spring compressor tool in order to do it. (Unless you're Conan the Barbarian or something...)
I built a tool for mine using a piece of threaded rod, a few nuts and washers, and a piece of 1" by 3/16" steel bent into a horseshoe shape, looks a lot like the one pictured in this thread.

The 2 halves of the RER clutch spin freely from each other until it starts to shift and then contact with the belt is what holds them from slipping from each other. There are no pins that stick out of the ends of RER secondary springs.
The good thing about this is that you don't need to do the 'fish scale' test mentioned above, because there is no way to put the pins in the wrong holes. (The bad part is, you lose extra tuning capabilities because you can't put the spring in different holes.)
Except for the fact that there is no way disassemble/reassemble without a spring compressor tool, (unless you spend way too much time excising your forearms...) RER clutches are actually much simpler than a 'normal' secondary clutches because there is virtually no way to put them back together incorrectly.

after all this discussion and the last post, I took my 99 rer apart to find out I have 'pins' on my secondary rer spring. and it is in hole 3. Does this mean I have the wrong spring in mine, or what is going on here>>> Would someone explain to me why there are different kinds of rer's???

yea my touring sle has a rer clutch and it has the preload holes too..as for the other clutch i need to know some things

just finished restoring a 92 mach 1 and i put the clutch together with my hands and just put the spring in any hole cause i dint know to much about preload...and i tried to take off and just started to bogg like hell and move very slowly ,even when wide open

but when its on a stand it runs like new

and the primary whines loud when idling

REASONS??

thanks

You didn't put it together properly.
Re-read the pretension part you mentioned as well.
It's crucial. You may want to pay attention to the fishscale tension part as well.
I'd try for around 16 to 18 pounds as a starting point.
The bog you're experiencing is probably due to the lack of tension to grip the belt. That's where you pretension comes into play.

Jeff

on the movable sheave, putting the clutch back together. do you turn the shaves clockwise or counterclockwise when you compress the spring?

i guess no one reads this forum to reply. thanks anyways.