I know a guy that works at a muffler shop and made a pipe for his 01' zr600 from a Tractor Supply tractor muffler and custom piping. I was owndering if it would be worth it to have him make me one for my sled, and once i get it on take it to my snowmobile shop and have them tune up the whole machine. Do you think this is a good idea? Also i was thinking of taking a peice of metal and bolting it onto the tunnel and bolt the rear part of the suspension to the bracket so that it hangs lower. Would this be a good idea also? Any ideas are appreciated! :) Travis

Anyone? :(

in my opinion i would say scrap that, a home made pipe is going to rob power unless you really know what your at, so buy a proper after market pipe from a respectable company with the silencer, I have no idea what you mean with the metal bracket from what i can get from it you want to drop the height of the suspension??? squat it down?? If you want a bit more performance get a clutch kit, or even just replace all the stock parts in the clutch as i would say they are getting worn if it has quite a few miles,that alone will be a big help. Drop a size or two on your top chain gear for better bottom end, Replace the track so it will hook better for aceleration or studs, get your self a 1 or 1.25, replace your shocks with some new ones front and rear to give you your proper ride height back, get yourself a handle bar riser block for some leverage while standing because the bars on those older indys are too low get at least a 2". Those are a couple ideas that will help you alot, i had a couple 90`s model indys, a 500 Indy, XLT 580 so im talking from experience here and what i always did with mine to keep them going good. Best of luck! :hallo5:

Ok, i will just forget about the pipes then. As for the suspension i want it so the rear sits higher without buying a whole newer setup. I have replaced both front shocks and when i got the machine 9 months ago the previous owner had just rebuilt the rear. For the clutch i do plan on getting it looked at because it engages really hard. I'm not sure how i would get a handle bar raiser to work on my machine since the bars are welded to the whole steering system. Thanks, Travis

I have a Comet Clutch for my Phazer that engages hard also, but its desinged to, to get the power to the track fast without alot of engine lag and strain. As for the rest... beats me!

What do you think of this riser?
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_cata...70&skuId=592870 (http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?catId=&leafCatId=&store=Main&productId=p592870&skuId=592870)

I HAVE A BUDDY THAT HAS A OLDER INDY 400 GREAT SLED. THESE ARE A FEW THINGS HE DID TO HIS
CHECK YOUR COMPRESSION NOT SURE OF THE PSI BUT BOTH CYL SHOULD BE WITH IN 5%. WE REBUILT HIS TOP END 20 OVER THIS HELPED A GREAT DEAL

NEXT HE REBUILT HIS CLUTCH I'LL TRY AND GET THE SPEC'S
PUT ON A GOOD BELT LIKE A DAYCO ULTIMAX III, MAKE SURE IT SITS OVER YOUR SECONDARY SHEAVE BY 1/16" IF YOUR SITTING TO LOW IT'S LIKE STARTING IN 2ND OR THIRD GEAR IN A CAR.

NEXT HAVE SOMEONE CHECK YOUR JETTING MOST INDY'S WHERE JETTED REALLY HIGH.

SOME PLASTIC SKI SKIN'S OR SKI'S IF YOU CAN AFFORD THEM.

THIS YEAR MY BUDDY IS LOOKING IN TO A NEW TRACK 1" PREDATOR FROM USA TRACKS.COM MY BROTHER CHANGED HIS TRACK ON HIS 99 ZR AND IT REALLY HELPED.

SKIP THE CUSTOM MADE PIPE YOU'LL NEVER BE ABLE TO CLUTCH IT TO THE RIGHT RPM'S

KEEP MOST OF IT STOCK JUST UPGRADE A FEW THINGS AND THAT LIGHT INDY 400 WILL ROCK IN THE TRAILS

I think that i will get the handle bar riser and redo the clutch. How hard will it be to change the springs/ what springs should i get for the clutches and how do i adjust them? Travis

First of all, this is a little 400cc fuji motor. Youre not going to gain a whole lot by doing any aftermarket stuff - for the amount of money being spent, you would be better off sell your sled and buy a bigger sled if youre looking for something that is faster.
If your engagement is coming in hard - sounds like the belt is out of spec, which is why when the motor engages, its coming in hard to make a contact with the belt. Check and see if the belt is within spec : 1 3/8 wide - if its not, then you know why. You do not need to get a UltiMax III belt like DGZRT stated - its unnecessary to spend an extra money on something that isnt going to benefit you in any way.
Anyone? WL

Yea, I've seen that kinda sled, there really meant for a chilling ride.

I really don't expect to make it faster. I just want to make sure that it's running properly. I plan on firing it up tomarrow, and i will be able to tell you guys how it's set up and see if you guys think it's running right.

Yea, giver a god. There a nice sled, worth keeping in top notch shape.

What doe you mean by god?

CI400 - if youre not looking to make it go faster, thats ok. Believe me, that sled has a great top end speed for the that little 400. Just make sure the carbs are all good and clean, good drive belt and the clutches are in a good shape. I used to have '88 Indy 400 and man, it was one of the toughest sleds I ever own - very extremely reliable. What year is your sled? WL.

Mine is an 88' just like your's was! I plan on firing it up and working on it today to see if everything is good to go for winter. I hope to be riding by Thanksgiving on the lake since it has been so cold already. Last season i put a 1" lug track on it and had to remove the tunnel protectors for clearence, but now i want to stud it, so i would have to instal them and drop the suspesion down so they fit. How many studs would you recommend(was your sled studded?). Here is a pic of it. I had it custom painted last year.

She looks darn good! Take out the grills and paint them red, and get yourself a headlight cover, two inexpensive add ons that will give you some more pizaazz.

I have painted the screens red now (pics from last season). I will look into getting a headlight cover. Any idea on how much they run for?

You can get headlight and tail light covers Made by SPORTECH $33 bucks for the headlight cover Canadian, and $27 Canadian for the tail light covers, thay are really nice and i had them on mine, they come outlined in black, purple, red, blue and white. This is thru Royal Distributing (http://royaldistributing.com)

Originally posted by customindy400@Oct 17 2003, 11:48 AM
Mine is an 88' just like your's was! I plan on firing it up and working on it today to see if everything is good to go for winter. I hope to be riding by Thanksgiving on the lake since it has been so cold already. Last season i put a 1" lug track on it and had to remove the tunnel protectors for clearence, but now i want to stud it, so i would have to instal them and drop the suspesion down so they fit. How many studs would you recommend(was your sled studded?). Here is a pic of it. I had it custom painted last year.
With your new 1 inch track - I wouldnt recommended using any studs (unless youre planning to run her on the lake a lot) 96 studs would be plenty for 62hp sled. Before you go on installing studs, make sure you have enough room under the tunnel. No, my sled was never studded. WL.

Well i checked out my sled today and i found that it has a blue primary clutch spring, but i don't know what that means? Also i have attached a pic of how the belt fits in the driven clutch, so someone could tell me if it needs to be adjusted. Travis

It would be hard to tell if an adjustment is needed on the secondary or not but I can tell you that the belt has to be on top by 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch would be plenty. Polaris blue is rated for 120/285. Get EPI black and you'll noticed a higher engagement over Polaris blue. What are you engaging at now? WL.

Ok, i guess i won't stud it since i like to slide around on the ice usually more than hooking up on ice. I live right on the lake and it's my primary ride spot. Right now i think it engages at 4800rpm, but i'm not sure. I plan on starting it up tomarrow so i will check it out and tell you. Also what do you mean by the measurements of the belt and clutch? How would i fix it? Travis

Just a suggestion here-
I had (still have, don't ride) a 88 polaris 340. I put the clutch spring in it that is designed for higher elevations (6000-8000 feet, iirc) and WOW what a difference. it only lost about 2 mph off of the top end (who cares, it went from 72 mph to 70, lol) but it gained a TONE of snap on the bottom. it did not really engage that much higher, i guess it just changed the gear rates different. you might want to give it a try on your sled... made it alot more fun on the trails

as for the studs... i would probably skip them. you are going to loose alot of top end speed with all the added rotating mass. you have a 1" track, so it probably hooks up pretty good. just my $.02 though

- jason

How hard would it be to change the clutch spring? You said to get a black one right?Also what did those belt measurements mean? Travis

Wouldn't bolts with nyloc nuts hold the bracket on better than rivots?

I'M BY NO MEANS AN EXPERT ON CLUTHING, BUT BY LOOKING AT THE PICTURE OF YOUR SECONDARY CLUTCH I WOULD SAY THAT THE BELT IS SITING ALITTLE LOW IN THE SHEAVE. THE SPEC'S ON A DAYCO BELT IS (MAX1105 ) TOP WIDTH
1-3/8" X 47.25" LONG. CHECK THESE ON YOUR BELT. YOUR BELT SHOULD SIT ABOVE THE TOP OF THE SHEAVE BY ABOUT 1-16" OR UP TO 1/8". IF YOUR BELT IS NOT 1.375" WIDE THEN IT'S WORN AND NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. IF IT MEASURES CORRECTLY THEN YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE SOME SHIMS IN YOUR SECONDARY CLUTCH. IF THE SHIMS ARE THE PROBLEM I THINK THERE ARE A FEW POST ON THIS WEB SITE THAT WOULD EXPLAIN IT BETTER THAN ME. IF YOU NEED A NEW BELT I MIGHT HAVE A NEW ONE FROM LAST YEAR AT HOME I'LL CHECK.

PS. GREAT LOOKING SLED!!!

If youre engaging at 4,800 revs, then I would leave the spring alone for now. But the motor runs best at 8k revs for the peak power. If youre running at that type of revs, then youre in a good shape. But check out your belt width and see if its in spec (1 3/8) If youre off by 1/8 of an inch - get a new belt. 1/8 or more makes a big differents in top end speed and engaging as well.

Well, i measured my belt and it's 1 1/4in. and my spare is the same width. I haven't measured the depth of the sheave yet though i will tomarrow. So do you think i need a new belt? Did you find that belt dgzrt, if so how much do you want for it? I will post new pics of my sled once i get it ready for the season (hopefully in a few days) since i repainted some stuff. :) Travis

SORRY I'M ALITTLE SLOW, I'LL TRY AND CHECK TODAY. I HAVE A BUNCH OF DAYCO BELTS LEFT OVER FROM LAST YEARS INVENTORY.
DGZRT

I will check back later then. As for the new drop brackets, do you think i should attach them using rivots or bolts with nyloc nuts? Travis

SORRY NO BELT, THE CLOSEST I HAVE IS A MAX 1108 ABOUT .5" TO LONG
AS FOR THE DROP BRACKET RIVET IT ON .

IF I DO FIND ONE IN THE FUTURE I'LL LET YOU KNOW. I CAN TELL YOU THIS MY COST FROM DAYCO/CARLISE IS 18.00 SO A GOOD PRICE WOULD BE AROUND $ 25.00 EA IF YOU CAN FIND AN ULTIMAX III YOU WOULD BE BETTER OFF. MY COST WOULD BE $38.00 A GOOD PRICE: $ 55.00

SORRY DGZRT

Which belt would last longer though? Also do you how i would flush the coolant in my sled? Thanks,Travis

Originally posted by customindy400@Oct 21 2003, 12:44 PM
I will check back later then. As for the new drop brackets, do you think i should attach them using rivots or bolts with nyloc nuts? Travis
The ones on my polaris are attached with jumbo sized pop rivits. i've beaten the crap out of the thing and they have held on just fine. i would rivit it. there is 6 or 8 rivits on each side, so do not skimp. make sure you attach the bracket to the inside of the tunnel and the underside of the floor board too, keeps it from working its way loose.

I can not remember how we did the 'doo, but think we bolted that one on. either way you should be fine. if you use bolts, make sure you get some big washers so they dont pull through the alumnium.

- Jason

Hopefully i will get the steel tomarrow to make the brackets and i will rivot them if i can find big enough rivots. Also my mom is going to recover my seat (ripped very bad),gas tank cover, and handlebar pad soon with black vinyl. It should look awsome! Travis