Who has used both and what is your opinion on them?

Using the stud bit, is it better to use a drill with high RPM? Does the stud bit clog with the track material like a hole saw?

I'm a fan of the stud bit used in a high speed drill. I use a 1/4 air drill. The idea is to let it burn through the track from the heat being generated as you push on it. The first couple holes are a little slow, but once warm, it cuts like you are going through butter. It does plug on occasion as it warms up, usually ok after that. You need to keep it hot. Drill the entire track at once, don't stop and install a stud every time you drill a hole.

A regular drill bit can snag and cut an irregular hole. I used one turning backwards in a pinch.

:hallo8: STUD BIT IS THE ONLY WAT TO GO DRILL BIT WONT REMOVE ENOUGH
material TO HARD TO PUSH STUD THROUGH :hallo6: :cussing:

I am not a big fan of a stud hole cutter. They tend to cut too many cords in the track. I use a regular drill bit that is smaller then the stud you are installing as it cutts less cords in the track and the track will actually hold on to the stud better giving you less chance of pull through. Once you get through the track with a regular bit you have to spin it at high speed to soften the rubber up a bit then install your stud right away. You may need a plier to pull the stud all the way in. don't wrry about installing the backer and nut till you have all the studs in place and the holes drilled. I used to lose studs all the time due to pull through when using a hole cutter but when I went to the regular drill bit it never happened again.

The stud bit is the only way to go as far as I'm concerned. think of it this way, would you rather have a hole made by the "hot knife thru butter" conept or the "wood chisel and block of wood" concept.

The regular drill bit uses the chisel approach, where as the stud bit uses the hot knife approach.

Heck, they're uner $10 I think too. I've used the same one and studded 6 sleds with it.

In the old days I used to stud using a pointed hot rod 1/4 or 5/16. This worked great and coterized the hole at the same time. Only problem is the stink of burning rubber so I use a track drill now. Regular drills dont cut it "dont cut it" get it, hehehe.

Another way I prefer to stud is jack the back of the sled up so it is at eye level. Then drill your hole and install a stud one at a time, as you continue studding you can look down the track and see your first set of studs then off setting the next set slightly so you have more scratch lines that way. This is why studding templates are worthless, would you rather have 6 scratch lines or 26?

:hallo5: w00t

Originally posted by Mikadoo@Oct 22 2003, 09:22 PM

Another way I prefer to stud is jack the back of the sled up so it is at eye level. Then drill your hole and install a stud one at a time, as you continue studding you can look down the track and see your first set of studs then off setting the next set slightly so you have more scratch lines that way. This is why studding templates are worthless, would you rather have 6 scratch lines or 26?

:hallo5: w00t
[quote]

I do the same thing but raise the back of the sled up with the chain hoist, I also like to make my own templates, this way I can make almost an infinite number of scratch lines(except on the 03 Rev, damn tunnel protectors) :p

i've never studded a track but i am sure that a regular drill bit would tear out cords in the track the are part of the track strength. i have drilled similar materials with drill bits and the bit looks like a shoe string has been wrapped around it after a few turns in the material.

nothing but a stud bit,,,,if you have to use a regular bit, use it in reverse,,,,,,and only temporarily

I have also heard the drill bit cuts less cords and the stud is stiffer in its installation. With a air wrench and a allen wrench head, I can screw the stud in instead of pushing it through after drilling with a bit..... I am only doing two sleds and I will have these rides for quite some time. I was wonder what the masses use here. Thanks for all the input.

Rob

Use a track drill!! and Use the correct size.(There are 3 sizes available 1/4", 7mm & 5/16") I run the end of my bit on a bench grinder while spinning the drill) a few times while drilling a track. Try and keep it as sharp as possible.
I would NEVER use a regular bit.
Thought for the day: Ever try drilling through piece of carpet???
My.02

Stud cutter for me!! So much easier. I used a fairly heavy 3/4" drill as it spins faster then my 3/8 drill. I marked out my locations with liquid paper and then went cutting!
Make sure to sweep up the plugs, as they can cause a wipe out on the shop floor!! DON"T ASK! lol

I just posted in another post, do you guys clean your studs before installing?? One of the manufactures recommends that you soak them in hot soapy water to take the oils off! Makes good sense if yoou think about it. Loctite sets up better without oil!
Oh yah... we put a small drop of red loctite on the threads before tightening. I know they have lock nuts, but loctite works better in the cold!

Originally posted by rev8@Oct 23 2003, 08:15 AM
Ever try drilling through piece of carpet???
My.02
the first time was the last time :(

WEll at least Paul knows what i'm talking about!

THIS IS JUST MY .02, I WORK FOR A CONVEYOR BELTING DISTRIBUTOR.

WE DRILL HOLES IN PLYED BELTS EVERY DAY AND INSTALL FASTENERS. THE ONLY WAY IS WITH A STUD OR TRACK CUTTER. AND TRY AND KEEP IT VERY SHARP!! A TWIST DRILL WILL WORK BUT IT TEARS AT THE REINFORCING PLY'S THAT ARE IN THE BELT OR TRACK WHERE THE TRACK BIT CUTS A NICE SMOOTH HOLE WITH MINIMAL DAMAGE TO THE TRACKS.

MOST TRACKS AND BELT HAVE AN INNER WOVEN CARCASS OF NYLON AND POLYESTER SOME USE ONLY NYLON.

ONE THING I'VE LEARNED FROM repairing MY TEAR OUTS ON THE OUT SIDE EDGES OF MY TRACK IS THAT AFTER I HAVE SKIMMED BACK THE RUBBER ON THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE TEAROUTS. I NOTICED THAT THE FABRIC SEAMED TO BE CONTAMINATED AND SORT OF ROTTEN. SO I ASKED A MFG. OF CONVEYOR BELTING IF HE HAD ANY IDEAS. HE SAID THAT THE NYLON CARCASS IN THE PLYS WILL OBSORB WATER AND ROAD SALT OVER A LONG PERIOD TIME AND START TO SOFTEN THE FABRIC. HE SUGGESTED THAT I STICK A HOT ROD IN THE HOLE AFTER CUTTING AND SORT OF CLOTTERISE THE RUBBER AND NYLON FABRIC. MAKES SINCE TO ME.

I TO HAVE MOVED THE STUD HOLES OVER ON THE OUTSIDE EDGES OF MY TRACK TO GIVE ME MORE TRACK LINES. FROM MY EXPERIENCE BIG MISTAKE.
I FEEL ON THE OUT SIDE EDGES YOU SHOULD ALWAYS KEEP THE STUD HOLE IN THE CENTER OF THE OUTSIDE EDGE AND TRACK WINDOW. THIS WILL GIVE YOU THE MOST FABRIC ON ALL SIDES OF THE HOLE AND HELP WITH TEAR OUTS.

FROM EXPERIENCE THE ONLY ONE THAT PULLED OUT WHERE EITHER TO CLOSE TO THE OUTSIDE EDGE OR TO CLOSE TO THE TRACK WINDOW.

SORT OF RUNNING OFF AT MOUTH SORRY!!

DGZRT

Better than foaming at the mouth. LOL


The hot poker does make sense, since the stud bit works better as it gets hotter, I would have to assume it is sealing the fibers. Maybe I will take a propane torch to it before drilling the first hole. I have a 3/8 drill that has avery high RPM, looks like this will be the choice to use. I'll pick up a stud bit, thanks guys for the advice.