Hey guys!!!

I'm new here and wanted to do my introduction.....

I'm 12 years old
My home forum is M3 Forum (my dad has an M3 convertible)
I drive an 01 Formula Deluxe 380f
I live in Massachusetts


First of all, I have a couple of questions-

I am a beginner snowmobiler, and, am wondering if a 380 fan is going to be enough for me? Im really am addicted to speed. (we have a big driveway and an M3 homealone, lol) I really hope I wont outgrow it too quickly (we just bought it) The only mods it has are Simmons Flex Skis with 6 in. carbides. It has 2000 miles. Another question is how do you change the chaincase oil? (I check and clean the dipstick, but it never needs anymore) and tell me how to clean the carbs. Any driving tips would also be nice...

welcome there droptop :wink:
that 380 should be enough sled for you atleast 2-3 years. the chaincase on that sled might not have a drain plug and if it does not then you have to remove the side plate of the chaincase, there is only one pain bolt to get at. remember that there is an "O" ring there that seals the chaincase and you will have to watch that you put that back on correctly when you are installing the side plate again then of course put in the new chaincase oil. i wouldn't clean the carburetors myself but i remove the carbs myself. first you take off the breather box i think those ones are hose clamped to each carburetor and watch the coil is attached to that box also you'll have to remove it. then take the carb slides out then a gasoline line to each carburetor will have to be removed then last the hose clamps that attach the carburetors to the intakes will have to be loosened. the carburetors will with a little twist come off.

Is changing the chaincase oil absolutely vital? It dosent say anything in the owners manual about it... Anyway... about the chaincase....when you remove the plate, does all the oil just fall out into the belly pan? And when replacing it, do you just use the whole can of Bombardier Synthetic Chaincase oil? If you are using synthetic, what are the changing intervals? And for the carbs, does the STP Carb cleaner a good alternative? Thanks for the response.

The chain case oil will drop into to belly pan, make sure you have something under your sled to catch the oil. Changing this oil is important, do it once a season. You only need to put 8.5 oz of oil in it. Clean the outer part of the chain case with your carb cleaner, make sure your chain tension is correct and put it back together. I chain should have app 1/2" on play. Sound like you are planing to do some of your own repairs that is cool. I do all my own. Your going to learn alot and save a lot of $$$$. The money you save could be used to upgrade some day. :devil: :devil: :D

elaborate 1/2" on play and tension (for the bolt). Sorry for the stupid questions im fairly new at this stuff.

Use the adjustor belt to tighten the chain. You will have the right tension when the chain has approximately 1/2" of play. The setting from the factory should be good. You should just check it since the cover is off. Hope this helps. Cleaning the carbs is no big deal either. Let me know if you have any other questions.

You don't nee to worry about your carbs or chain case on that sled. That lil 380 will be fine all season motor and chain case wise!!! Only thing you'll need to watch is the belt. You want it about an 1/8 of an inch above the secondary sheaves. The secondary is the rear mounted clutch. As the belt wears it'll need to be adjusted. Also if you get stuck in powder don't keep on the gas as it'll burn a belt up.