Tried to put tunnel protectors on a 2004 700 Classic Touring.
Polaris does not have any available.
The dealer sold us a set of tunnel protectors for the 121" track machine they are not long enough and the rear heat exchanger is about 1 3/8" thick and mounted to the underside of the tunnel and the Polaris protectors are 1" thick and if you bottom out the rear suspension the track lugs hits the heat exchanger and if there are studs installed it will absolutly tear out the heat exchanger.
We thought of making our own that are thicker in the rear of the machine where the tunnel kicks up but then the tunnel strips now become the suspension stops and we are afraid the tunnel may not hold up to that abuse.
SO DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS
Thanks

I put studs in my 2003 Classic Touring 700 and am having the same sort of problem. what I'm thinking is to get something like the Yamaha rear heat exchange protector made. When I set the suspension properly it doesn't hit during normal riding and they'll only be there for the extreme bumps. I'll let you know how it works going to try it this weekend hopefully.

Hmmm, you guys have me confused. Typically in the past, as I understand no tunnel protectors are required on any liquid cooled Edge chassis. The heat exchanger strips are positioned over the track windows preventing stud damage. Maybe Polaris changed the Classic tunnel ('03-'04 M10's will all have the additional aux. cooler at the rear) I will reasearch the issue an post as I get some facts from Polaris.
Rich

The Classic Touring Edge 136" has cooling in the running boards and at the rear of the tunnel.

Originally posted by Rich3791@Dec 30 2003, 10:48 PM
The Classic Touring Edge 136" has cooling in the running boards and at the rear of the tunnel.
Did your dealer sell you one of the fatcory Polaris "fan cooled" aluminum tunnel protector kits? I know that studs can't damage the heat exchanger at the rear of the edge tunnels on the 121" versions, but I'm not sure of the issue with the longer touring suspension. If you see 2 sets of pre drilled rivet holes up inside your tunnel, there is likely a factory tunnel kit that is available (or will be available) for your sled.
Rich

My dealer told me not to stud it and that wasn't acceptable LOL.

My wife and I got on the sled and when I hit the throttle the headlight was pointing into the sky, this is when the studs hit the rear heat exchanger. So with 15.5" of travel and the suspension set right it'd have to be a pretty big bump to hit again.

Well it'll be another week before I'll be able to let you know since it'll feel like spring here today and tomorrow there's no where to ride to test my brackets.

Thanks
I was hoping we were not the only ones with this problem.
We were considering removing the exchanger and rotating it 180* then reinstalling it at a angle in front of the flap. But I don't know if flow is restricted on one side or the other where the hoses connect.
Also if you screw with placement then will it void the engine warranty.
I am not sure what the Yamaha setup looks like.
But again if this goes over the exchanger will it block off the snow spray and effect cooling. We also thought of making a set of rails over the top of the exchangers that would be connected to the ones polaris supplied but then when the track bottums out it is going to hit hard there and would it break the tunnel.
The factory holes in the tunnel did not align with the supplied protectors either, Polaris part number 2874062. They were nothing more than a set of 121" heat exchangers that were not welded shut at the ends and no hose bibs were installed.
I understand it will take some good bumps to bottom it out but one good whack and the exchanger is probably ruined as well as your day and you can bet Polaris won't warranty anything affected.
In North central PA, Potter County the turns are usually always ice and the studs just give a safety margin.

Freind built some out of 1" aluminum box tubing with a 1/2" solid aluminum spacer back at the heat exchanger then ran 3/8" aluminum bar stock over top of the exchanger and welded that to a piece of the box tubing running from side to side for support. rode 250+ last weekend worked ok

Got some riding done and the only downfall I could see is ice buildup but not a big deal I'll keep you updated.

The rear heat exchanger is open so you can run it either direction, that is a good idea and one the will keep snow going to the exchanger.