Does anyone have any pointers on rebuilding the act/fox shocks. *I am gonna make my first attempt tomorrow evening.

I have the oil, depth gauge tool, and a needle valve. *Cost me like 200 beans for the parts.

I understand the theory behind the rebuilding, and chances are I won't have a problem. *It would be nice to see a hit list or a proceedure in doing this.

Why am I doing this myself? *Cause I have 12 shocks to do, and the dealer here doesn't rebuild shocks.

newf

Go to you dealer and pick up a performance man. *It has a step by step procedure for servicing shocks and will list the IFP depth charts for the sled model.

Newf, how are you going to charge the shocks?

Also go to www.deycore.com they sell a video that will walk you through the whole thing

Good Luck and let us know how it goes

Maxwell

I plan on hooking my needle valve to a nitrogen tank and fill them with 200psi.

I checked in to deycore, maybe thats what I need.

Thanks

newf-i just learned how to rebuild mine and you have all the tools you need-a good set of long handeld hex heads will make it easier too--the 200 psi is exactly what i put in mine------that is if you arent already done!--

Have yet a chance to start them. *Have to fix sister-in-law car last nite. *Plan on removing the shocks tonight. *Thursday nite rebuilding and friday nite reinstalling. *So hopefully I be on the snow saturday!

Did you have any problems rebuilding yours?

I'm gonna be redoing mine for the first time too. The manual is great. you need a depth gauge too if you don't already have one. Some say you can use calipers too. Make sure you have a regulator and a gauge right on the needle portion too. Send me pointers too. Thanks Let me know how it turns out.

not really any problems--except for the caps were really tight, and I couldnt even get them off in the vice, so i had to put the shock in a sleeve so the vise wouldnt *bend the cylinder. and one more thing--dont put your head directly over the internal floating piston if you push down--that fluid will spray out of there hard core http://www.snowmobileworld-s2.com/forums/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif

I'm new at this too and my shocks are in desperate need of charging. *I bought a manual when I got my sled and it looks and should be pretty easy, But??? *What kind of needles do you guys use? *I've been eyeing the websight www.deycore.com , and debating on which one to get. *A replacement needle for a fox is $45. *Both the daycore come with 10 extra. *There is a $20 diff between the 2 deycores, but what is the advantage of having a brass standoff?

Well I attemped my first rebuild last night. *The depth gauge was useless.

I used Arctic Cat's needle valve to release the pressure in the shock. *Not sure how much nitrogen is in these to start, but not much came out. *As soon as I unscrewed the back end of the shock, the floating piston poped out, thus I was unable to measure the depth of this piston. *Shock oil was a dark brown, milky, and full of bubbles. *So I continued to clean the shock, dismantled the piston orifice and valves, and put everything back together.

Question: Does anyone know the proper depth of the floating piston for the rear arm shock? (Part Number 0703-666). *The sled is a 2001 ZR600LE.

newf http://www.snowmobileworld-s2.com/forums/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif

FYI: *Found it!

Floating Piston Depth for 2001 ZR600/800 LE

Ski Shocks: 1.365 inches
Front Arm: *3.000 inches
Rear Arm: * 0.800 inches

newf *http://www.snowmobileworld-s2.com/forums/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

All done.

Wasn't that hard after all.

The shock oil was a dirty milky brown in all shocks. *The front arm shock (with the easy adjust) was the most time consuming to rebuild.

newf

Newf,

Have you taken the sled out for a test ride yet? Let us know the difference, I'm curious....

I will be installing them tonight (along with a clutch cleaning), so I can be on the snow tomorrow.

I will let you know

http://www.snowmobileworld-s2.com/forums/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif