I was wondering what the clickers on my primary clutch should be set at. The numbers are 2 - 6 with nothing marked on one side (I assume it is a 1). Should all 3 be the same number? I am not familiar with this so any help is appreciated.
(My sled is a 98 summit 670).

They must be at the same setting. What is your sled revving at full throttle?

According to the race manual, you want the clicker number as low as possible while maintaining the peak hp rpm (for drag racing).

If your riding style involves more variation in throttle position, set the clickers a bit higher for better response/acceleration.

Going one click lower should drop the peak RPMs about 200rpm (up approx 200 rpm if you go up one click).

Well, sled engages at 5 grand (is this normal)? and revs at full throttle at over 8 grand. The sled is overrevving and over engaging! I had problems with the priamry clutch, took it to the shop had some things replaced. Seems like there's still a problem!? Also, the shop had the clickers set at 3, 4, and 5.
Now, I have set them all to one and then all to 3 with no noticable difference in rpm.
What could the problem be?

all three clickers must be set the same. they come from the factory set at 3. they adjust the motor rpm point at which the clutch is fully engaged, by about 200rpm a scale #, as the other post stated. higher numbers equal more motor rpms to fully close the clutch...lower numbers equal lower motor rpm level to fully close the clutch. it helps to have them set higher if you ride at altitude. setting 3 is fine for at or near sea level.
your stock engagement should be about 4000rpm. you probabaly have a worn belt, or loose belt tension, or both.

i missed what you wrote the first time...but if a "shop" set all three clickers to different numbers, they dont know wtf they are doing with tra clutchs.

I have had a similar problem with my 1997 Mach 1. Engagement was very erratic. Sometimes at 4500 rpm, sometimes not until about 6000 rpms, and just about anywhere in between. It would also over-rev at full throttle (9000+ rpms), and top out at only 105 or so. The belt was not getting to the top of the primary clutch as it should (about an inch or so down from the top.. I made marks on it with a marker to see..)

I took it to a couple different sled mechanics, and they couldn't figure out what the deal was either. I tried swapping my primary clutch with a friend's, and my problems went away. I finally decided to tear my primary apart, I used the instructions from the technical side of this site (hi-performance and technical discussions, clutch tuning forum) to make the tools to take it apart. I found that one of the arms in it was REALLY hard to move around, and that was causing my clutch to get stuck and not engage properly and not open up all the way. I cleaned it up and put it back together, and all is well again. RPMs right exactly where they should be.

The only tools you will need to pull the clutch apart are the clutch puller (about $30us), and the "forks" (about $8us from Doo Dealer). You only need the spring compressor if you want to change your spring (which is probably not a bad idea if it's still the stock original spring).

Good Luck...

Jim

Thanks Jim, that seems to be exactly my problem as all symptoms are similar, my sled is also lacking at top end.
I have a new belt and just had the clutch "set up" (aligned,etc), although I'm not sure why the shop didn't set the clickers.
Will check out the arms.....

PS. Had the slide flange and spring cup replaced the first time.

Well, shop mechanic said that when he had it apart, the arms were loose and moved fine. So who knows?
What causes a late engagement? (I have a brand new Bombardier 127 belt on, and the clutch alignment was just done).

Binding somewhere in the primary clutch, primary clutch spring, too much belt deflection (something you should check every once in a while)...

I would take belt gaurd off, run motor around engagement rpms, and try to see what's preventing it from moving. I would probably put my money on the belt deflection.