New to the scene so im sorry for such assinine questions..

But i bought a 98 Mach z with 144 studs and the rest bone stock

i raced my buddy this weekend .. mind u ive put 100 miles on the sled since i bought it.... and he has a 97 mach 1 .. bone stock.. no studs nuttin... he had me by 8 sleds at the end of the lake which is probably 3/4 of a mile.. i got him out of the whole but he blew by me mid race evevrytime.. granted he has no studs so thats how i got him.. but when i tried his.. and he rode mine.. his sled still won.. its like i had no top end.. top speed on mine was 108..

he thinks by belt was too loose, and my track also.. as i said im new to the scene.. and dont know what it could be.. he adjusted my clickers so when i wacked it out of the hole it was 8500 and like 8750 on top end...before the adjustment it was 8750 and 9000

ps.. my sled has 1400 miles.. his had over 2500

rpm still seems high to me...

Originally posted by generis@Jan 12 2004, 02:38 PM
rpm still seems high to me...
what should it run around ?

were gonna work on it tomorrow and put a new belt on and look into the clutches.. any tips guys ?

The 97 Machs were fast. The 98 i believe had the center dump pipes that sucked. The 97's I have herd are supposed to be the fastest stock Mach's of any year.

Your 1998 Mach Z should be in the 8300 RPM range for max power. (according to the 1999 Ski-Doo Technical CD Specifications). You are wayyy over that, so you're probably quite a bit down on power.

Either your belt is slipping or something is not right in your clutches. You guys should be pretty close in a drag race, the 98 Mach Z's that I have raced against have all had the exact opposite results of your race. (I get them a little out of the hole, then after about 80 mph they catch back up).

I was over-revving, and my clutches were not fully shifting out, is was acting really funny. Sometimes it would rev too high (9000+ rpms, about 105 mph top speed), and sometimes it would be fine. Sometimes it would engage around 3000 rpms, sometimes it would engage at 6000 rpms. Turned out to be my primary spring and one of the arms was really hard to move.

I have about 2400 miles on my sled. I swapped primary clutches with a friend, and had no problems, engagement was about 4500 rpms, revved up to 8500 rpms and stayed there up to 120 on the speedo. Have my clutch done, just waiting for a new primary spring that I have had on order for the past couple weeks.

******Update******

We tore into the sled last night.. got a new belt on.. track adjusted...and the secondary off... fully cleaned and sanded clean... need the 3 pads in there.. but other wise all was good...

could not for the life of us get the primary off.. he had the tool and everything and no go.. gonna try and get a bigger impact wrench to get her off.. were gonna adjust sat on the lake.. that way we have something to go by.. seeing how thats were i ran it wide open last week.. gonna adjust the clickers and see how she goes.. anyone ever have any trouble with getting there primary off ? :blahblah:

DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH TO LOOSEN THE BOLT!!!!!!

Tighten the puller into the crank then tap the head of the puller until the clutch pops off. Also, what are you using to hold the clutch while you are tightening the puller?

Originally posted by revrnd@Jan 16 2004, 12:02 PM
DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH TO LOOSEN THE BOLT!!!!!!

Tighten the puller into the crank then tap the head of the puller until the clutch pops off. Also, what are you using to hold the clutch while you are tightening the puller?
I always try to avoid tapping on the end of the puller with anything. Try this first. Pull the bolt out. Fill the cavity with grease. 4-5 pumps. Instal puller and tighten. Clutch should pop off. If not remove puller and add some more grease. Usually the hydraulics of the grease makes this real easy.

Originally posted by 99tiller@Jan 12 2004, 02:33 PM

he thinks by belt was too loose, and my track also
Loose is usually faster. Your track should be just tight enough to keep from ratcheting.

Cant you take a TRA apart while its still on the crank....?? i thought i seen my buddie do that.

Originally posted by piped bravo@Jan 16 2004, 12:36 PM
Cant you take a TRA apart while its still on the crank....?? i thought i seen my buddie do that.
Yes you can, but it's easier to work on if if not on the sled.

Rob, I had forgotten about the grease method.

yes you can but not on ck theres just not enough room to slide the sheeve off. mabe on a 97. i use an impact all the time i dont like pounding the end of the crank. the one thing to remember is that it will come off much easier if you take the sled for a ride the get the clutch hot then it will just pop off.

Not good, sorry to hear that. I'm sure your not the first one to do that. If there's one thing I learned a long time ago having the right tool for the job usually ends up costing you more in the beginning but saving you a lot of time and grief in the end! Not that it will make you feel any better but last year a guy that was new to sledding had bought a new sled from my dealer and figured he would use a normal gear/pulley puller to remove the primary as he didn't realize that there was a special puller. Needless to say he ended up having to buy a new clutch when he bust the end of it off. If you know anyone that is good with a cutting torch you can make your own primary holder. I just traced out the one at the dealer (he let me) and got a buddy of mine to cut me out one out of some scrap metal, works like a charm (of course once it's cut you have to take a grinder to it to get rid of any sharp edges)!

The 1998 should not rev over 8200 RPM. Also those centre dump pipes need to be warm. Before you run your buddy..go out and make a 6-700ft run and turn around and do the same and then line up against him. YOU MUST GET THE RPM DOWN FIRST

www.hlsm.com

It's a parts On-line website (mocro-fiche). Click on one of the Skidoo links and select your year and model. You'll figure it out from there.

Not to be a smart a##, but I'd call that a "learning experience".