I have a manual that refers to adjusting the chokes but I seem to be having trouble setting it according to the book. It says to bottom all 3 adjusters to the brass part that threads into the carb. then your suppose to back one out until you lose all free play on the lever. then your suppose to turn the adjuster in until you get your 1/8th of an inch free play at lever. WHen I do this, my adjustment seems to be backed all the way out. THen when I go to adjust the next choke I can only turn it a couple turns before the lever is tight and then I go to move it back in to get my free play but I cant move it far enough to get my 1/8th of an inch. Finally on the third choke, I cant move it at all because then I lose my adjustment. This this correct? I would think that all chokes should be somewhat the same inside (as far as setting). Any suggestions?

I tried syncing my chokes "by the book" and ended up just getting frustrated. I measured the depth of the hole the choke plunger goes in and then adjusted each plunger to the same length ensuring that it sits on the bottom of the carb when the choke is off. My understanding is that it is more important to insure that the choke is closed when it is off. Hope this helps.

That is exactly right...the most important thing is that the plunger is all the way on the botom when the choke is off.

The way I've done it forever is this: Instead of checking for freeplay in the lever, check for freeplay in each individual cable. With the choke in the off position, loosen the cable (drop the plunger) until there is about 1/8" of play in the cable. Do this for each carb. That's all you need to do. Simple, eh?

Yes it is frustrating me as we speak. I tried it 'by the book' and it just isnt working for me. According to my adjustments (by the book), its only allowing my choke lever to move out 90 degrees (straight out) . I cant move it back one more notch. I am already fouling plugs. Mainly the center and right side plugs. :cussing: Im gonna try it your way. Sounds a lot easier... Thanks guys!

Adjust the chokes so when you put the plunger into the carbs you feel a little spring pressure before you start to thread them in. Thats all you have to do.

You nailed it Scott.............same way I've done em for years.

Rick.

this does sound a little more accurate then the way the book says. another question i have is this.. i was trying to adjust the idle and the book says to start at the PTO side and adjust to 1480 then center to 1490 and MAG side to 1500. It seems to take A LOT to get the idle at 1500 and after you gas it a few times then it wants to drop to 1000. Once in a while the sled will pick right up and idle at 3000. At this point I try to back them off a little but then the idle drops back to 1000. what the heck? I cant seem to find a spot where it wants to idle consistently. I like it to idle around 1700.

Your issue may be intertwined with improperly adjusted chokes, do that first and see what ya got.


Rick.

will do.. thanks for the info

I went ahead and adjusted the chokes according to the way you guys said. Man what a difference. I didnt realize it was that easy. I took it out and it runs great and no fouling plugs. The only other concern I have now is my throttle cutting out. This sled as always done this and I dont understand as to why. Sometimes when I am sitting there and I get right into it the engine bogs out for a split second. Same thing when I am running down a trail and am holding it half throttle. It will bog down as if the engine is shutting off but it will pick itself back up again. Any ideas??

A friend of mine just had this problem w/his 98 zirt 600. There is a throttle safety switch on that machine. We unplugged all the leds from the carbs, and pluged them into each other on the wire harness end. problem solved. I think Cat also makes a shorting plug this also works.

this is one reason I like my efi,,,,, no choke problems,,,,

I'v got an 800 that has those safty switches. you say you unpluged them then pluged them in. Did you mean unscrewed them from the carb? Just left them off. and don't use em.

No, leave the sensor attached to the carbs, just unplug the wires leading to the carbs and plug the wires into each other (I'm reffering to the wires in the harness not the ones on the carbs)

I looked at mine and it looks like that you only plug into one of the plugs and leave the other one open. being that it is a three cylinder. one plug short.If you don't use the sensors why can't you just take them off the carb.mine are already off being that i tore them apart to clean and rebuild.My experiance with cars if its unhooked and not being used get rid of it. lighter the better.

Yes thats how we did it, we were only able to plug in 1 of the wires. I don't see why you couldn't take them off the carbs. However I would be sure to test the sled before you remove them as there is a certian setting on them.