just had all four shocks revalved on my '02 700X due to it bottoming too much last year...now it rides stiffer in all conditions but still bottoms out. went riding on my buddies totally untouched SXR600, not only does it ride plusher, but doesn't bottom out nowhere near as easily!!!! I keep reading the Yam rear skid is junk, not compared to the SC10-III it isn't...I'm reluctant to revalve because I think it will ride only stiffer yet with minimal bottoming improvement...somebody has to know how to fix this, can anybody help? Thanks!

Springs carry the weight, shocks only dampen the motion. If you are running on rebuilt shocks, and think the ride is stiff but still bottoming, it pretty much has to be the springs. I might be able to suggest some changes if I knew about what you weigh, and what everything is set at now.....

RRSS, FRSS, Torsion spring cam position, etc....

I weigh 170 pounds sopping wet...and as far as suspension adjustments (whichthere really isn't much to do) Front (ski) shocks: preload cranked until I ran out of threads.
Front shock of rear skid: spring preload cranked until ran out of threads
Limiter straps: wherever it came from the factory...must be out a bit, since the sled does steer easy.
Rear torsion springs on stiffest position.
Rear shock rate adjuster in stiff position (this is about the only adjustment that makes significant seat of the pants difference).
I noticed going from full soft to full stiff on all spring preloads makes a very small improvement in bottoming, but does make the ride stiffer all around (which to me is not acceptable).
Also coupler blocks in tightest (least gap) position...(again, subtle difference).
It seems to me there is little to no progressive rate on the skid, once the suspension begins to stroke it goes all the way and crashes through it's travel.....

Who did the revalving? Sounds like you need less slow speed dampening (so the ride isn't so stiff), and more high speed dampening (so it doesn't bottom as much on the big bumps). Speed meaning the speed the shock is being compressed.

those were my thought exactly, and I did mention that to the people that revalved the shocks (Deycore enterprises), but they said that by revalving all you can do is either make the ride softer or stiffer, none of this plush at low shock speeds and firmer at quicker shock speeds....Carver also told me the same thing, it's either softer or firmer all the way around.....I'm to the point where I don't know who or what to believe, but somebody HAS to know, I just have to find that guy or start experimenting myself......

Ok, I have the same sled, only mine is an 800. I'm pushing 300 pounds, and am an aggressive rider. I do not do much jumping, enjoy playing in the rough stuff, but emphasis is playing in the twisties. My settings:

Everything set with no weight on it.
Front ski shocks - very loose, spring easily lifted from adjuster collar by hand
Front skid spring - same as above, tight enough not to rattle
Straps - all the way out (thinking about this setting though, may pull it in a little)
Rear skid spring - medium
Trail clicker shock (Fox accessory) - stock valving, 3-5 depending on conditions
FRSS ( front scissor stop) - in rear hole, dot towards the scissor (high)
RRSS (rear scissor stop ) - in front hole, dot up or down (low)
Torsion spring roller (yes, there are 3 holes for it - look) - in rear hole
Rear scissor arm - this is what made all the difference for me, it's in the rear hole.
This lets the suspension couple up a little sooner on the downstroke, something like an 1.5" sooner.

The emphasis on these settings is on maximising coupling, and it seems to be working very well. It works every bit as well as an M10 in the small stuff, much better in the bigger stuff, and there seems to be no penalty when it comes to weight transfer - good hole shot...and no loss on top end as with M-10

The trail clicker shock was added this season, and made a huge difference in the bumps. I can't recommend it enough to someone considering it.

please explain the front and rear scissor stops, I have no idea what that is.....the only adjustments the owners manual talks about is rear shock rate adjustment (two positions), rear torsion spring preload, front skid coilover spring preload and front ski shock spring preload........

I just reread your note, and think I know what the problem is with you not understanding what I'm talking about. I'm talking about a Polaris, I think you're on a Ski Doo.....