I recently installed a 1.25" Camoplast 9818 Predator track on my 98 Mach Z. After the install I had a look underneath to see how much clearance there is between the lugs and the heat exchanger and it looks like about 1/4 - 3/8" at best (at the closest spot directly above the axle and wheel assembly that is bolted to the tunnel). Is this enough clearance to prevent my track from hitting the heat exchanger or do I need to lower the axle and wheel assembly somehow (it looks like there are holes you can drill out to lower the axle and increase the tunnel clearance)? Has anyone encountered any rubbing problems after installing an 1.25" track on a CK3 sled?

I was also checking out the Skidoo site to see if any CK3's came with an inch and a quarter track and noticed that in 2000 you could get a 1.45" or a 1.75" track as an option the Mach Z. How is this possible when it appears that the proper clearance would not be there?

I put one on my ole 99 mach z, was the best thing that ever happened to her. Changed everything - I could actually chase the boys on their renegades! This year I bought a renegade, easier to handle in the deep stuff! I used the bottom holes in the rear - worked fine - no rubbing or touching the exchangers!

Good luck

Wow. My friend has the 9818 on his 98 FIII 700, with suspension on closest holes to the exhangers he has more like an inch of clearance. Are your top idler wheels bigger than 155 mm?(offset ones on top, your torsion springs are wrapped around the axles) I don't know what the smaller idlers on the axle that bolts to tunnel should be.

I know a few CKIII sleds with 1.5" tracks, one guy even has 288 studs in the 1.5" with tunnel protectors, running track on far holes, and stock drivers and idler wheels. There isn't one single scratch mark from the studs (2" studs, too..).

I have the 9818 on my 97 Mach 1, and using the TALL tunnel protectors and the track on the farthest hole, I haven't hit the protectors yet (and I run my track super loose, like 2-2.5" of sag without any weight on track). I would say I have about a good 1/2 inch clearance on top, but didn't measure it.

Jim

:D I have a 98 machz lt and we put a 2" lug track on with no problems.

Originally posted by Big Bad Jon@Feb 7 2004, 12:53 AM
I put one on my ole 99 mach z, was the best thing that ever happened to her. Changed everything - I could actually chase the boys on their renegades! This year I bought a renegade, easier to handle in the deep stuff! I used the bottom holes in the rear - worked fine - no rubbing or touching the exchangers!

Good luck
[quote]

Which bottom holes are you referring to?

Originally posted by 97mach1@Feb 7 2004, 01:00 AM
Wow. My friend has the 9818 on his 98 FIII 700, with suspension on closest holes to the exhangers he has more like an inch of clearance. Are your top idler wheels bigger than 155 mm?(offset ones on top, your torsion springs are wrapped around the axles) I don't know what the smaller idlers on the axle that bolts to tunnel should be.

I know a few CKIII sleds with 1.5" tracks, one guy even has 288 studs in the 1.5" with tunnel protectors, running track on far holes, and stock drivers and idler wheels. There isn't one single scratch mark from the studs (2" studs, too..).

I have the 9818 on my 97 Mach 1, and using the TALL tunnel protectors and the track on the farthest hole, I haven't hit the protectors yet (and I run my track super loose, like 2-2.5" of sag without any weight on track). I would say I have about a good 1/2 inch clearance on top, but didn't measure it.

Jim
[quote]

I'm nt sure what size my wheels are, I'll have to check. The least amount of clearance is around the center of the tunnel, above the wheel/axle assembly that can be removed by itself without touching the rear skid bolts. I'll try and post a couple of pics in a little while. What resolution/size should I use to post here?

There should be another set of holes there that are about 1" further away from the heat exchangers. You shouldn't have any problems putting your axle in the closer holes, but for some reason, it sounds like you have bigger than stock wheels on that axle (that was a common mod because the smaller wheels would lock up a lot because they spin so fast). The track should be equal distances from the exchangers all the way back.

Look on the inside of the tunnel, and you should see the holes punched out on the inside shell. I would double check by taking the axle out, measuring the radius of the wheels, and measure from the edge of the track to the holes (should be same distance). Just drill them out and re-mount the axle in those holes.

Good Luck. Here is a pic of the holes on mine.

(I use 800x600 for pics, I tried 1600x1200 and it says it can't take that type of file).

yeah you do lower the axle with the small idlers on it. and you do this also with studs. the other thing is you should remove your tunnel protectors. you should have no clearance issues. let me know how it works.have you tried out the pipes? and have you clutched her yet?

Originally posted by 97mach1@Feb 7 2004, 01:00 AM
Wow. My friend has the 9818 on his 98 FIII 700, with suspension on closest holes to the exhangers he has more like an inch of clearance. Are your top idler wheels bigger than 155 mm?(offset ones on top, your torsion springs are wrapped around the axles) I don't know what the smaller idlers on the axle that bolts to tunnel should be.

I know a few CKIII sleds with 1.5" tracks, one guy even has 288 studs in the 1.5" with tunnel protectors, running track on far holes, and stock drivers and idler wheels. There isn't one single scratch mark from the studs (2" studs, too..).

I have the 9818 on my 97 Mach 1, and using the TALL tunnel protectors and the track on the farthest hole, I haven't hit the protectors yet (and I run my track super loose, like 2-2.5" of sag without any weight on track). I would say I have about a good 1/2 inch clearance on top, but didn't measure it.

Jim
I have a '99 Mach Z with the .88 track and 1" studs. I have to keep the track tighter than specs call for, otherwise the studs start to dig into the bulkhead when I have it WOT in deep snow.

I would prefer not to keep the track so tight but I don't see how someone could have 2" of sag. If I left it that loose I'd have no metal left in the bulkhead area.

Are there protectors you can put on this area like the tunnel protectors?

Originally posted by machz69@Feb 7 2004, 10:15 AM
yeah you do lower the axle with the small idlers on it. and you do this also with studs. the other thing is you should remove your tunnel protectors. you should have no clearance issues. let me know how it works.have you tried out the pipes? and have you clutched her yet?
[quote]

No I haven't had a chance to try the pipes yet. I still have to clean them up and put a new sheild on the one pipe. I also haven't ordered the other brackets etc. yet (it's been a very busy month!). I figured I would put the track on first and see how it goes and then worry about the pipes after that (one change at a time). Looks like the next job is to drill some holes and lower the axle and then hopefully I can get a test ride in before the day is done (I have a few other things apart at the moment for mtce)?

Originally posted by highmarkco@Feb 7 2004, 09:15 AM
:D I have a 98 machz lt and we put a 2" lug track on with no problems.
[quote]

Did you have to lower the axle in the tunnel as others have indicated (a buddy of mine was over helping me and we both agreed that the way it is now it will definately rub).

You shouldn't have any problem. Thinks about it, basicly all the sleds were built the same suspension wise, except for the shocks and stuff. You'll be fine.

Originally posted by 97mach1@Feb 7 2004, 09:50 AM
There should be another set of holes there that are about 1" further away from the heat exchangers. You shouldn't have any problems putting your axle in the closer holes, but for some reason, it sounds like you have bigger than stock wheels on that axle (that was a common mod because the smaller wheels would lock up a lot because they spin so fast). The track should be equal distances from the exchangers all the way back.

Look on the inside of the tunnel, and you should see the holes punched out on the inside shell. I would double check by taking the axle out, measuring the radius of the wheels, and measure from the edge of the track to the holes (should be same distance). Just drill them out and re-mount the axle in those holes.

Good Luck. Here is a pic of the holes on mine.

(I use 800x600 for pics, I tried 1600x1200 and it says it can't take that type of file).
[quote]

I just pulled my wheels and the radius is 55 mm. It looks like if I lower my axle by drilling out the lower holes and installing it in the new holes I should be fine. Thanks for the input .

Originally posted by blackknight@Feb 7 2004, 01:23 PM
I have a '99 Mach Z with the .88 track and 1" studs. I have to keep the track tighter than specs call for, otherwise the studs start to dig into the bulkhead when I have it WOT in deep snow.

I would prefer not to keep the track so tight but I don't see how someone could have 2" of sag. If I left it that loose I'd have no metal left in the bulkhead area.

Are there protectors you can put on this area like the tunnel protectors?
I had my .88 track w/ 1" studs on my sled for years, ran that one loose as can be, too. The dealership that double checked my stud installation moved the suspension to the closer holes to the heat exchangers, and the studs chewed up the heat exchangers in the back of the tunnel, closest to the snowflap.

I have had the track out, and there's a couple light scratches in the paint on the bulkhead (nothing deeper than you would make with a light brush with a screwdriver). If anything there was more room up front than in the rear. I normally would run WFO in deep powder, 120+ mph blasts across the ice, hard acceleration on trails and ice. Never had a problem after moving the track to the farther holes.

Just got done with a radar run with some friends of mine. Including the one with a 1.5" track and 2" studs. We even double checked the bulkhead area after the run to see if he should consider bulkhead protectors. Not even close to a scratch. He made tunnel protectors from aluminum w/ a white teflon wear strip bolted to it. Not one mark there, either.

I find it hard to believe that you would rub the bulkhead at all with that small of a track and studs. If anything, the CKIII chassis has MORE clearance than my sled in the bulkhead area.

HRP Motorsports makes bulkhead protectors for your sled if you want them. I think Hi-Performance Engineering sells them also (www.hiperf.com).

yeah when ever installing studs in a sled you should always install tunnel protectors. all that ia really is a sort of say slider that slides in the grooves in the heat exchangers with the depth that you need. then the tracks windows ride up the that slider then the track cant go any higher up so you need to measure from the window to the top of the studs then you know how high it has be.

Here is a picture of the track/tunnel clearance.

do you have it in the top spot? it almost looks that way if so lower it. drill out the bottom holes then go. np. ps. is that tunnel protectors? its hard to tell if so pull them out. no need for that.

Originally posted by machz69@Feb 7 2004, 05:56 PM
do you have it in the top spot? it almost looks that way if so lower it. drill out the bottom holes then go. np. ps. is that tunnel protectors? its hard to tell if so pull them out. no need for that.
[quote]

Yes, that's with the axle in the top holes. I just finished moving it down and it looks like I should have enough clearance now (should have gained 3/4" since that is the difference in the height of the holes). why are you saying to take out the factory tunnel protectors? Wouldn't it be better to leave them in (if the track does come into contact with the tunnel I would rather it hit the protectors instead of the heat exchanger)?

well because you have lugs over the widows and if they come in to contact the lugs will wear down on the protector ;)

Originally posted by machz69@Feb 7 2004, 08:39 PM
well because you have lugs over the widows and if they come in to contact the lugs will wear down on the protector ;)
[quote]

The spots on the lugs that line up with the protectors are flat. When I push them up to touch the protectors the lugs on either side almost touch the exchanger. If I apply slightly more pressure then they do touch. Lowering the axle definately made a big improvent. It looks like it should be alright now. Thanks to all who responded and for the picture (97mach1).

Originally posted by 97mach1@Feb 7 2004, 04:59 PM
I had my .88 track w/ 1" studs on my sled for years, ran that one loose as can be, too. The dealership that double checked my stud installation moved the suspension to the closer holes to the heat exchangers, and the studs chewed up the heat exchangers in the back of the tunnel, closest to the snowflap.

I have had the track out, and there's a couple light scratches in the paint on the bulkhead (nothing deeper than you would make with a light brush with a screwdriver). If anything there was more room up front than in the rear. I normally would run WFO in deep powder, 120+ mph blasts across the ice, hard acceleration on trails and ice. Never had a problem after moving the track to the farther holes.

Just got done with a radar run with some friends of mine. Including the one with a 1.5" track and 2" studs. We even double checked the bulkhead area after the run to see if he should consider bulkhead protectors. Not even close to a scratch. He made tunnel protectors from aluminum w/ a white teflon wear strip bolted to it. Not one mark there, either.

I find it hard to believe that you would rub the bulkhead at all with that small of a track and studs. If anything, the CKIII chassis has MORE clearance than my sled in the bulkhead area.

HRP Motorsports makes bulkhead protectors for your sled if you want them. I think Hi-Performance Engineering sells them also (www.hiperf.com).
97mach1,

I don't have a problem hitting the heat exchangers, I lowered the axel to the lower hole and I have 1" tunnel protectors. I will say this though, if I tried to run a 1.5" track and 2" studs, I think they would chew their way through the bulkhead and into the back of the motor - ok, maybe not into the motor, but you get my point.

I'll look into the bulkhead protectors like you suggested, but I don't underdstand why my sled is so tight clearance wise. I'll try to get a picture posted tomorrow.

well i guess all thats left now is how do you find that track works

Originally posted by machz69@Feb 8 2004, 09:41 AM
well i guess all thats left now is how do you find that track works
I haven't had a chance to try it yet. I finished up most of my maintenance last night but got side tracked onto another issue. My garage door opener stripped a gear when I opened the door so now I have that to attend to. To add insult to injury I scraped the top of my truck cab on the bottom of the door when I later went to back out of the garage. I guess the spot where the door quit was not at the end of the travel and the door was hanging a bit lower than normal (I had manually lifted the door until it clicked into place and then proceeded to back out just as I had when I drove it in - I guess the snow in the driveway was a little higher on the way out). Having said that it doesn't look too promising to get out today, doesn't that suck!

Here's the pic of the studs chewing on the front of the tunnel. :hallo1: If someone has had this happen to them, please feel free to let me know why the clearance is so tight compared to what others say their CK3 has. No way I'd fit a 1.5" track with 2" studs. :dazed:

The track tension is already having a good time wearing down the slides.

blackknight,

Your right, it doesn't look like you have a lot of clearance there. I definately have more than that. It's almost like you have larger drive sprockets???

yeah they will do that but that is a plate right there. the studs that you are running must be like 1.025 or something like that but when it hits like that its most likely that your track was or is a little too loose and will rub when your like top end. keep her tight. with the studs you have more rotating mass ;)

sorry i forgot,....... that realy suckz xcellr8.... just have a great day huh

Wow, there must be some special edition CK3's out there that had the chaincase located farther down and back, because there's no way on God's green earth a 2" (or even 1 3/4) track would fit in my tunnel ('98 FIII). Let alone 2" studs(!). It is waaayyyy too tight for that kinda stuff at the driver, between the tunnel and the driver. I don't care how far ya drop out the back of the skid, unless you're running smaller drivers, the only way it's going to get done is with a D&R. Or, there's some 'special' CK3's out there that I never got to see...

After a few "mods":