What a turn around! I decided to longtrack'er on Monday, now everything was in on Friday! (quick shipping) It got dark on me last night, but I'm suspecting that the lugs are rubbing on the tunnel (could hear rubbing on bumps, dips), not because of the cogs (changed to an 8-tooth), but above that, where the track loops over the highest point in the skid. Since the track is also new and was bundled up tight, I was hoping that maybe it'll calm down and I'll just need to put more tension on it.

Thinking of a quote from another thread by NewfieBullet: I just remember that when I went to put a deep lug track on my Cougar I was limited as to what I could put on, based on the reccomendations in the A/C service manual. I ended up going with a 1.25" and it was a tight fit. I had to drill new holes and drop the skid lower in the tunnel.

Changing the cogs may be necessary, and should solve the problem, if indeed you have trouble with a two inch track.

The more I think about this, lowering the skid shouldn't be too bad at all. The rear mount already has a lower position, but I'm thinking the skid had to swing down in an arc around the cogs, so the new front position wouldn't be lowered as much as the rear...so it's just drilling 2 new front holes.
>>Any thoughts??

There should be holes in the support braket about 1/2" below the current mounting holes. If so, you'll just have to drill through the tunnel there. That's all I had to do with the Cougar.

I did some more testing today...wow, I'm a pretty happy guy. It's an incredible difference so far. :hallo1: Thanks to you guys for convincing me!

Originally posted by NewfieBullet@Feb 14 2004, 05:00 PM
There should be holes in the support braket about 1/2" below the current mounting holes. If so, you'll just have to drill through the tunnel there. That's all I had to do with the Cougar.Is it the front mount you had to drill?
There are lower holes ~2" down (under the running boards) in the rear, with only one drilled all the way thru that support bracket. But no lower holes up front... it is reinforced with riveted plate though, so it would be a strong area for another hole, although I haven't figured how far down to go.

I think the noise I've been hearing is just from a cold track that's not taken it's new form yet....BUT, there was a definite louder rub when the rear really compressed a couple times today. I figured it was hitting the tunnel up front again, until I noticed a chunk of my plastic rear handle assembly missing :slick: So I guess lowering the skid is an immediate must for the back of my short tunnel at least.

2 questions:
1) I don't wan to lose a lug, but is it a problem if the lugs do rub a bit on the tunnel occasionally?? Won't they just wear down a bit?? (Of course I figured it wasn't too good for the lugs if it's rubbing all the time or hitting the rear edge of the tunnel)
2) Is there a break-in period for a new track?? ...hence the faint noise?

Originally posted by Snowcatr@Feb 15 2004, 12:25 AM


2 questions:
1) I don't wan to lose a lug, but is it a problem if the lugs do rub a bit on the tunnel occasionally?? Won't they just wear down a bit?? (Of course I figured it wasn't too good for the lugs if it's rubbing all the time or hitting the rear edge of the tunnel)

It was the front mounting holes that I had to drill on the Cougar. The rear already had holes in the braket below the tunnel.

It won't hurt if the track hits the tunnel every now and again. I'd be amazed at any machine that didn't have that happen on a regular basis.

Originally posted by NewfieBullet@Feb 15 2004, 12:41 PM
It was the front mounting holes that I had to drill on the Cougar. The rear already had holes in the braket below the tunnel.

It won't hurt if the track hits the tunnel every now and again. I'd be amazed at any machine that didn't have that happen on a regular basis.
OK, that's what I thought you meant--your front mount. Cool, I'll do that today.

That worked out great....nice and easy. There were hole locations up front inside the tunnel, which I didn't notice before, so that's where they got drilled out.

And I still can hardly get over how much better this setup is. I was out creeping thru the wooods earlier where I never would have dared go before. I'm in luv

Here's another :cool:

That's going to look really cool when you get the extension done. Have you decided what route you're going to go for that yet? Get one made or buy a kit?

I haven't decided, or thought about it that much. I don't want to spend $100 for one...I'd rather buy a metal break and make it. I might just keep the short bus look for the rest of this winter and fab something during the off season. I don't like tail-gaters anyways.. :hallo1:

Awesome dude :thumbsup: :thumbsup: How hard was it to put the 8-tooth drivers on the driveshaft...that is what you did right?

One more thing, you might not hit your tunnel as much if you adjust your adjustment cam to the third setting, its maximum setting, right now it appears as if you are on the lowest setting (softest).

Dang, after looking at your setup, I might have to rethink my ol 121".... It's good, but I bet the 144" is more forgiving. How much did it all set you back if you don't mind my asking?

Originally posted by Snow-Drift@Feb 15 2004, 11:16 PM
Awesome dude :thumbsup: :thumbsup: How hard was it to put the 8-tooth drivers on the driveshaft...that is what you did right?
I found out right away that it's impossible to do without a press, so that was easy for me to have someone else do it. :)

Originally posted by Snow-Drift@Feb 15 2004, 11:22 PM
One more thing, you might not hit your tunnel as much if you adjust your adjustment cam to the third setting, its maximum setting, right now it appears as if you are on the lowest setting (softest).

Dang, after looking at your setup, I might have to rethink my ol 121".... It's good, but I bet the 144" is more forgiving. How much did it all set you back if you don't mind my asking?
For some reason, it feels stiff right now on that softest setting. And I'm not really sure it is hitting the tunnel after all. I think it's just the new track with a few wrinkles in it yet. ...After I lowered the skid, the same "warble" sort of sound remained.

Money well spent for sure...was about 420, including track, drivers, rail extensions, new hyfax and the shop to have the drivers pressed on and off.

$420 seems like a pretty good price. Did you mess with your gearing, or is the 8-tooth drivers going to take care of that for you?

Originally posted by Snow-Drift@Feb 18 2004, 01:31 AM
$420 seems like a pretty good price.* Did you mess with your gearing, or is the 8-tooth drivers going to take care of that for you?
I didn't touch the gears but the machine pulls hard as ever, so I don't think I'll need to mess with it. I'm still doing wheelies. :D

I could probably mess around with the clutches although I'm not sure what to do. So far, it doesn't seem like it needs anything except a longer tunnel though. We've had a thaw lately, so no fresh powder to test in either.

So have you been able to get into some fluff this week to really try it out or what? I'm guessing it's pulling pretty hard because of those 8-tooth drivers. That's quite a "gearing reduction" right there I would assume.

I was thinking that the smaller drivers just sort of balaced things out with the track. I can hardly tell a difference as far as gearing so far, but I haven't tried for the new top speed either. Maybe that will tell me something. It sure feels like it has plenty so far! I'd say if anything, it does feel snappier.

We've had some crappy warm weather lately (since I got it done of course... :slick: ) but it's been amazing in the old deep snow. I was gone last week though, so I haven't ridden lately. 10" of new wet snow just fell today so I suppose I can test'r out in that.