New project, as delivered

I'm very passionate about rebuilding and hope I don't come off as a show off. I really like this forum and it's members and I am proud to show people my work. This is going to be a slow process (summer free time). I would like to share these pics with you.

As delivered. Mag side big end of the con rod bearing let go. Only other damage is mag head. Sled has been neglected. PERFECT REBUILD PROJECT FROM GOUND UP! :rolleyes:

Sled literally came in a basket -

As with all my rebuilds, you will literally be able to EAT off the sled when I'm done cleaning it. Here's a progress shot

I was thinking a low white racing checkered cobra flared windshield - what do you guys think?

1400F ceramic black paint - 6 coats. Love that stuff

Engine stripped, cleaned and bores measures - cases and cylinders are good to go.

If your a monoblock triple fan, you'll be happy to know that this is a late release 97. The best ever of the xcr engines. 4 oil line from pump, updated crank bearing configuration, SLP type billet heads (factory)

Originally posted by madsledhead@Mar 14 2004, 01:54 AM
I was thinking a low white racing checkered cobra flared windshield - what do you guys think?
sounds good. Or maybe even low smoked checkered

Good luck with the machine,


Bauer :undercover:

whats the best way to strip painted aluminum engines?

Nice to see someone with such a passion for sledding. Good luck with the project, looks like you've got a real handle on things.

looking good.i just rebuilt my 96 xlt.center piston ring turned and caught on exhaust port.repklaced cylinder sleeve,bored all three out .020.new pistons,rings,outer crank bearings,[inners felt fine] and they shaved top of block .020 to flatten it.heads were good.i think its 140lbs. compression now.needs heavier weights in primary now.winds up to fast.i dont want to blow it to the moon.lol.where do u get the high temp. paint.i have a 91 500 that im redoing this summer with xtra 10 front and rear.already done motor.want to clean up the engine compartment.sorry for babling.good luck. wayne

go with the low checkered windsheild, i have one on my sled, looks great. Besides i see you have the liquid cooled brake as well. That is the first sled i have seen with the same setup as myne. :D :D :D

Lookin good Mad. Now I get to see your project. Hope it goes as well as mine did with all the help you and UltraGN gave me on mine.

wow that engine looks great! i hope the rest of the project turns out as nice as that! question: did you rebuild the engine your self? if so HOW? we rebuilt my bros indy 500 and that was a sob! with the mono block like that! it took three people to get the cylinders back on two to compress the rings and one to slide the cylinders on, i can't evan imagine what it would be like with a mono block triple!

Hi all, thanks for all the input.

To answer a few questions:

1. The exhaust paint I use is called DUPLI-COLOR , I don't have the serial number from the cap. But it is 1400F ceramic based paint. In order to do a good job you need to spend LOTS of elbow grease. First - wire brush all pipe and manifold edges - next "bulldog" the entire surface and spray with degreaser to lift out all surface oils - Lastly, wash pipes in water to make sure all surface clean.

Apply paint in short even sprays - but only a little at a time. Pipes need to be baked in between coats - I sit them over a burning stove. Apply a new coat every half hour. First few will look flat and dull, after 5-6 the gloss really comes out.

2. The engine in the picture is gutted - no crank, I have sent it out to Adrien Bernards. They have the best prices.

3. Cleaning the engine is easy with the right stuff. The first layers of grime are removed using the varsal wash tub (using wire brush), then the finishing touches are done by spraying NASHCLEM A202 industrial degreaser. The engine is washed in water after to remove the excess chemicals. Bores are sprayed with very light oil while waiting for crank.

4. Not that I am at that point yet, but allot of people find it difficult to re-install the monoblocks - and I think its because your using ring compressors. I usually bring the outer pistons to the highest level I can get so that there somewhat even, and leave the center the lowest. I squeeze the rings on one side and install that piston, then I do the same the the opposite side. After that the monoblock will stay somewhat level and you can give your hands a rest from holding the weight.


Lastly, why did I seek out this project - being the oldest sled in my fleet?

Theres a reason, these are the last of their breed - the monoblock legacy of the XCR high port triple with vm38's

These engines dominated cross country racing from the mid 90's

The 3 into 1 design runs up there with the twins, can make plenty of torque, and run SMOOOOOTHE - like a triple should.

Lastly, this sled had a BRAND NEW track and fully refurbished rear skid. Driveshaft bearings and jackshaft were done at track installation. I have the Polaris bill of sale that shows this work being done exactly 87 miles before engine blew-up.

I am going to go nuts with accessories on this sled - peicemilling it during the summer. I will post progress as it comes.

Thanks.

Go with the low white w/ checkers w/ handflares. It'll be the best, and NICEST looking windsheild you'll ever buy. Here is a pic of my black one.

can u tell me what u mean by high port engine and billet heads.ive heard these terms before on clutch kit web sites and didnt know the difference.thanks for the paint tips.do u paint the complete engine and the engine compartment too. wayne

Whoa xltier - those are big q's and would require me to write a tech novel.

Here is the short to the point (don't ask why) answer.

Billet heads - in fact billet (insert words, handle/bumper/you name it) can be summed up in one process - machining of piece from single chunk of steel.

Normally heads are cast and have some imperfections, machined heads are milled and machined from a solid piece and are much more resistant to abuse. A billet head can achieve higher compression levels and are less critical of rapid heat/cool.

Fit and finish of billet parts are far superior.

High port - the really short version.

2 stroke engines have a series or ports - passage ways cast into the cylinder
IF you look at your sleeve, you will notice holes all around the bore - these are your ports.

-side and front ports are your intakes
-exhaust side is exhaust port
-around exhaust you can have booster ports to increase exhaust speeds
-you can also have ports to pressurize your variable exhaust bellows

NOW:

Port timing is a word that refers to the opening and closing of ports as the piston moves to cover them, of course, it is much more complicated.

There are several factors that get into the equation to make your engine go.

-Piston speed on the up stoke/down stroke
-intake gas velocities
-exhaust gas velocities
-Rate of gas burn - (very important one)
-Ignition sequence and when to fire (even bigger factor)
-Cyclic frequency of waves in exhaust pipe (biggest - has to do with rate of expansion of gasses/pipe lengths and diameter/piston speed to match)

Lets just say, leave these calculations to combustion/mechanical engineers and lets just look at some basics.

Basic 1 :

It has been proven many years ago that an engine will make more grunt at lower RPM with lower exhaust ports

Basic 2:

It has been proven many years ago that an engine will produce more oomph at high RPM with higher exhaust ports

BOTH THESE STATEMENTS can be calculated using all that useless stuff I put down earlier.

*NOTE - this is why exhaust valves create larger power bands, they change the exhaust port profile as RPM changes.

NOW - since this Monoblock triple in the XC's and XCR's didn't have exhaust valves, the engineers have to make some compromise. Either make the engine run stronger at cruising RPM by giving a medium hight port - or giving better peak HP by giving a higher port.

In this case, the engineers made it a high port engine - peak RPM is well above the XLT's (97 hp vs 88)

But, in order to ride the powerband, you have to be spinning the engine much faster. So it is clutched for higher revs.

High port motors don't like to be ridden slow - you need to really wind the crap out of them to make it an enjoyable ride. But they have better potential.

There are many,many factors that I didn't even list and I'm not even going into the intake ports, but I hope you get the rough idea.

clear as mud?

thank u. and i do understand what u said as i have been a mechanic[transmission specialist] for 30 years.i just didnt no the high and low port thing.to me that, would mean the high port xcr should be sluggish on bottom end. is this correct.also,could i put a xcr cylinder block on my xlt motor and get some of those results.i know there is other variables but its the exhaust port hight im talking about here.also,i hear alot about crank problems.i know about the xtra lube thingy.when l did my motor i drilled out the pto oil hole the same size as the others.and beveled it.thank u much for ur time. wayne

Check it out guys!!!!!! My new rear skid for the project - It's the race version of the xtra-10 - came out of a 99 xcsp!!!!!!

Those of you familiar with setting up weight transfer will really appreciate this - Toolless adjustable front track shock!!! No more compressing the spring to move the retainer ring!!!!!

Rear track shock - Fox PPS. You either love it or hate it. I love it! Only 1000 miles on this entire skid!

Mad,

This sure looks like it is going to be a fun project. Keep up the posts, I want to see how this project turns out. Just got a call from a friend who is selling his 99 700 XCSP with 3000 miles for $2500.00. Clutched, piped, boost bottle, V-force reeds, reverse. May have to sell the 96 XCRSP with 700cc cylinders to make this deal reality.