Im trying to get my 1st 97 ext 600 to run like I have read about in past posting, I have had only twins in the past, and always wanted to try one out. top end was just done, carbs, new cat belt and 1/8 above secondary, new yellow spring, 55 degree helex, new drive yell/gr spring, 55 gram wts. I have read its good to start of with new stock parts and go from there, which I did, no change. first off engagement seems high, tach reads 5200 before she kicks in, and doesnot pull real hard like I think she should, peaks out at 7800-8000 rpms about 90mph. ive read here that these 600s can go 100mph and peaks over 9000rpm. im guessing that my drive clutch is bad? or my secondary? she also has a belt squel and wants to still move after you come to a stop. my buddy has a a 98 zr 600 and takes me start to finish, I would think the finish would be the triple over the twin. any suggestions would be great. thx

5200 seems high for engagement,,,, maybe you should pull a couple shims out of the secondary,,,check your deflection and if its still good, try it then,,,,,, your engagement speed is based on your weights and spring (and god knows I am not a clutching expert), but if you put more weight on ,you will engage sooner,,,, now you get into how the weight is cut (weight on the tip or end) which also makes a difference,,,,
your ext should be the same motor as the zrt 600 and it should do more than 90.
by the way, is the belt new??? is it the right belt??? just a couple more thoughts

Check the center-to-center distance, allignment and deflection, if your belt is squeling and creaping then it is to tight. I believe the right belt for your sled would be the 010 :unsure: ?? That engament is high and stock should be around 4500rpm with a max of 8500rpm. The 600 triple is a very strong runner and easily passes 100mph and pulls hard most of the way. Get the proper deflection (1.5") and alignment and see how it works.

The belt is brand new from articat as is all the other stock parts for this sled, per dealer. I will try removing 1 shim to start with and see if this lowers the rpms. and I checked my deflection and it was 1 1/2" so this is good. just doesnt seem to have that mean rip from take off all the way to 90mph and that takes a while. I know this thing should come alive.

With your belt squeeling it sounds like your alignment is off and creeping ahead your belt is tight. When measureing your deflection when the bottom of the belt starts to flex up this is your measurement. Also what hole are you in with the secondary and the clutching parts are they for your year of sled or newer. Something else to look at would be a roller cover for your secondary.

Just removed 2 shims out of the secondary and maybe dropped down to 5000rpms on engagemant, all parts are for a 97 ext 600, didnt get to try it out very far, just in yard. spring is in the middle 3rd hole I beleive, something is keeping the engagement high, it doesnot bang in at all, but I think if I get this corrected, maybe thats whats keeping her from its real potential. going out this weekend, and really want to figure this out and see what it should do, I hope.

The belt is a cat belt #0627-010, cam arms #0746-560 55-grams, clutch spring yellow #0646-147, driven yellow 0148-227, helix is a 55 degree all new and from cat dealer and is stock parts for my sled. so it should run like a factory sled with the top end done to. right? I didnt notice the squeal noise in the yard so maybe its gone to, but need to get it out in the open this weekend. deflection seems good around 1 1/2". any other thoughts on why its still so high? thx

do you have your spring in the secondary turned the right direction,,,, it is possible that you have it loosening instead of holding pressure to your helix,,,,, double check it to be sure,,,,

ok I checked out the deflection again and if I push down good with my fingers its hard to get 1.00 - 1.25, if I go by when the bottom of the belt starts to come up its more like a 1/2", tryed old belt dayco max 1130 and its way to big, goes on and off easy and pushed down to 2"+, tryed the engagemant and was at 5300. by taken out 2 slim shims out of the driven this brings down the belt more inside right? so how do I loosen up new belt?it does seem to be tight.

your going to loosen the belt by putting in shims,,,, you should have 1 1/2" deflection when you push down at the middle of the top,,,,

OK so I need to put back the 2 I removed, and add some to loose the belt up, and the driven spring is not the same on either end? I thought they were the same at both ends, then you put the cover back on and turn clockwise right?

well if you have less than an inch of deflection right now, then you need to add shims,,,, so put the 2 you took out and put them back in and try them again,,,, check your deflection,,, with this, you are hopefully at 1 1/2" again,,,, as for the spring,,,, I always put it in the hole in the helix first, then I start in the middle hole of the cover, then turn with the spring (I think its clockwise),,,,

I just checked out brownsleisureworld.com ,,,, wanted to see what they said should be in your clutches,,,,, it says you should have a yellow spring in your driven and a 55 degree helix, which you have both,,,,, then your drive clutch should be a yellow green spring and the part number for your weights should be 0746-568,,,, I am almost sure that this is a 68 gram weight,,,,not a 55 like you have in it.

It this is the case,,,,,put the shims back in, get 3 68 gram weights and your problems will be solved,,,,, heavier weights will force the clutch to engage sooner which will give you a lower engagement ,,,,,,

browns leisure world (http://www.brownsleisureworld.com/Parts/SNOWMOBILE/1997/1997EXT600(97ETA-1997)/)


this link will show you what I am talking about at browns

yet wrong again,,,,, it is a 55 gram weight,,,, I misread it,,,sorry if I got your hopes up

ok,,,, all new parts in your clutch,,,, is the belt glazed??? how do the clutch sheaves look??? a small crack in the sheave and your heading to problems,,,,

was there any gearing changes,,,, if you take the belt off,,,, lift the rear of the sled and try to pull the track over by hand,,,,how hard is it to pull???? you have to be binding somewhere,,,,

did you check your motor mounts,,,, with a broken motor mount your motor will flex causing you problems also,,,,

check your track and motor mounts and your clutch sheaves,,,,, see if any of those help you out,,,, I will check back tonight, so post your finding,,,

OK will double check on the spring, maybe I put it in backwards, and put back the 2 shims, and try it again, if not will get the larger arms. thx

not sure about the gearing changes, but that wouldnt have to do with the engagement would it? heading of to work so cant do any tinking know, but will let you know how I make out this weekend. thx

Have you made sure your center to center distance is correct? Off-set and center to center distances are or should be your main concerns before adding or subtracting shims and setting up your belt.

gearing will not affect your engagement speed, but it can affect your top end,,,, I was wondering if maybe you have 2 problems instead of 1

if you can, check your off set and center to center distance as heavy hitter said, then if your still set, its time to pull the clutchs back off and start over,,,, reclean, reinspect, and reinstall,,,,,

did you ever see if the driven spring wasnt on properly

No I didnt get to see if the spring is on right, and I will be going by a cat dealer on my way to ride this weekend, hope they can tell me if my center to center and off set is good. thx guys will let you know how I make out when I get back. thx again for the advise

are you riding this sled???? I would be afraid when its engaging so high and will only hit 90,,,,, something isnt right and I would run a backup sled if at all possible,,,,,just so you wouldnt take a chance on tearing up something worse than it already is.

Is there a chance when you installed your clutch weights that you over torqued the bolts that hold the weights. If they are too tight they can slightly warp the clutch sheave causing it to bind slightly on the stationary sheave.

ASSEMBLING
Fig. 8-27
0734-988
! WARNING
Never reuse the lock nuts on the cam arm pins.
1. Place a cam arm with bushing and washers into
position on the movable sheave; then secure with
the cam arm pin and lock nut. Carefully tighten the
lock nut until it contacts the cam arm pin shoulder;
then tighten an additional 1/8 turn. Repeat
procedure on the other two cam arms making sure
the head of each pin is positioned toward the
direction of drive clutch rotation.
NOTE: The drive clutch rotates counterclockwise.

Hey guys, just got back from a great weekend of riding out side by tug hill ny, but before I did, I stopped by the cat dealer and talked with them, they were great, took her right in and pulled the drive clutch off and apart which I would not be able to do, without the right tools, had a torch and large breaker bar to get it apart, I forget if they added or removed a shim, cleaned and put back together. they said I would need a new clutch real soon, but didnt have one in stock. new plugs and adjusted my choke cable. $75 bucks and 1hr I was back on the rode and a very happy sledder.my engagement is in the mid 4s now, real happy and top end I didnt want to push the clutch real hard, but 90 wasnt a problem with alot of room left. I will recheck my lock nuts to make sure they are not to tight. thx for all the advise guys.

glad to hear it all worked out and you had a great weekend sledding


sled safe!!!