I have a 1998 ZR 600 with the batteryless EFI. This past winter i burnt a piston and the oil seal. So i rebuilt the whole thing pistons, whole crank rebuild bearings and everything, honed out ect. Earlyer I had problems with it not running so great on both cylinders up untill about 4000 rpms. After i rebuilt it I took it out and it run like crap. It was only on one cylinder. After about five miles it just bogged right down to the point where it wouldnt go above idle. So i shut it off thinking it was the plugs and i never got it started again. The sled now has no spark and i just replaced the coil. Everything internal is just fine. I am thinking that it is a kill switch or the stator but i am not sure. It has no spark at all and once in a while it will get a waek spark just to fire it but it will never start. Does anybody know what this could be. Any help would be great!
Thanks! Nate

I vote for stator.

How would i go about checking the kill switch or stator to see if they are bad? I really need o get this thing fixed
:cussing:

Since you rebuilt it I'm guessing you pulled the engine and after my own recent experience with dropping cylinders and weak spark I'd recomend starting with the cheap easy stuff and make absolutely sure that your ground wires are tight... Ask me how I know.
HTH
Erik

well erik I have been trying to get this sled to run right for quite a while. And i think I finally got it narrowed down to the stator or the kill switch(something in that area.) But I just need input on what people think is going on here. I will ask you though ,how do you know?
Thanks!

if you have any spark at all,,, even weak,,, then your cdi is good,,, I would also assume that your coil is good since it is brand new,,,,
you can use a multi meter and check the resistance of your stator without having to pull it out,,,, you can also bypass all your switches with the 4 prong connector. if you bypass your keyswitch, killswitch, throttle switches, then you are down to your stator,,,, unplug your 4 way connector that is down near your stator,,,, try to turn it over,,, do you get any spark at all??? do you get weak spark??? if you get good spark, then you have a bad switch somewhere,,, if there is no difference, then you may have stator problems and its time to use a meter and test it,,, I started a topic in here about 3 weeks ago called zrt testing help,,, take a look at that post, it tells you what wires I had to test to see that my stator was good,,,, I cant tell you if yours would be the same measurements that I had or not, but I doubt it,,,, maybe someone in here has the specs that you need to test yours out,,,,

good luck
Brian

if you don't have a service manual. i'd get one before you go any further. money well spent.

The kill switch can be unplugged at the base of the handlebars thus eliminating it from the system.

here is a pic of the 4 way plug that will bypass all your kill switches,,, give it a try and see if you have any spark,,,,

the service manual idea is also a good one,,,, they arent too expensive at all and can be a life saver at times

Yeah, that was the first thing I did, was buy a manual. But the manuals dont give you too much information about testing things like this. but thanks for the picture and the kill switch advice I will try that stuff tonite and let you guys know if I have spark
Thanks! Nate

Since you asked.... I know because I'd been having all kinds of trouble with my sled randomly dropping cylinders and very weak spark. Took it to my buddies to put it on his osciliscope(sp) and see if the coil was bad or what. He starts messing with the CDI wire to figure out which one to put the leads on "Says I've fixed your problem" Walks away grabs a 10mm wrench tightens the bolt holding the hood cable down and VOILA runs great coils fine and will push more than 40kv scope shows no electrical probs whatsoever.

Long story shorter.. to save a nickel a sled Cat engineers ran the ground and hood cable to a single boss and bolt and when it loosened the ground became intermitent and things didn't run so good. I'm a dumbass for not checking it myself but I've learned to start with the small things first rather than just throwing money at electrical problems. I'm also changing to a stud a double nut setup for the ground to the hood cable coming loose won't shut me down again.
Erik

I think he ground is actually on the cover of the cdi,,, and that would definetly give you weak and intermintent ground,,,,, I believe it is your black wire coming out of your cdi and it does not go to a plug,,, it should be grounded at the same place your stator is grounded,,,,

let us know if its loose,,,,

A buddy of mine had the same problem. It did turn out to be stator. It cost him around $500.00 for a new one from cat. He had just put a bunch of other money into it as well. His sled also had around 6500 miles. Kevin

Here are some specs for 98 600 efi

Stator:
Ignition charge coil (3 pin plug,brown,green,black) brown/green 360-540ohms
Trigger coil black/green 36.8-55.2ohms

Timing sensor green/white to brown 152-228ohms

Injector coil blue to blue 16.8-25.2ohms


Like said before, the first thing to check is grounds. I'd have to look at mine again, I think there is one one behind the ecu, by the steering post, and the other is somewhere around the recoil. I would bet on the stator, that year was an icon for stator trouble. Pretty sure all your kill switches you can unplug, it should run. Electrical sucks, good luck!

Well guys I did some tests and this is what they looked like : the igintion charge coil was 117.3 ohms, the timing sensor was 98 ohms, and the injector coil was 19 ohms. I am not sure if I did these test correct but this is what it turned out to be.
Thanks For all the specs by the way, it was a big help. So what do you guys suspect now that these tests show that something is messed up?
Thanks! Nate

make sure your ground is good,,,, then I would test one more time using the specs that in doubt gas it gave you,,,,,from your first readings, you have something wrong with your stator readings and your timing,,,,, dont forget to test your trigger coil also,,,,

well i am gonna run the tests again, but before I do. What is the correct way to check the resistance. I just put both of the leads of the ohmmeter on the connector. Is this correct?
Thanks for the help!
Nate

Originally posted by In doubt gas it@May 26 2004, 02:27 AM
Stator:
Ignition charge coil (3 pin plug,brown,green,black) brown/green 360-540ohms
Trigger coil black/green 36.8-55.2ohms

Timing sensor green/white to brown 152-228ohms

Injector coil blue to blue 16.8-25.2ohms


Stator:
Ignition charge coil (3 pin plug,brown,green,black) brown/green 360-540ohms
Trigger coil black/green 36.8-55.2ohms

Ok, to test the stator, set your meter for resistance and you want one probe on the brown wire and the other on the green wire (both of these wires are from the 3 pin plug coming out of the stator,,,, you want a reading that is between 360 and 540 ohms,,,, my meter has various resistance settings,,,, so I would put this one on the 2000 ohm setting,,,,
then the to test the trigger coil, you put one probe on the black wire and the other on the green wire (same 3 prong plug coming out of the stator),,, this reading should be between 36.8 and 55.2 ohms, so set up for 200 ohms on your meter,,,

repeat these steps for the following 2 tests,,,, and all should be fine. if you have any problems, let me know. I will give you a cell number and walk you through it as you test if you want me too,,,,

Timing sensor green/white to brown 152-228ohms

Injector coil blue to blue 16.8-25.2ohms



good luck
Brian

Hey thanks brian I will let you know how it goes. I am a little rusty at this electrial stuff, thanks again for the procedure!
Nate

well I ran the test exactly how you told me to. What I got for a reading on the Ignition charge coil was an O.L reading witch might mean over load or something like that im am not sure. For the trigger coil I got 118 OHMS, the timing sensor 98.2 OHMS, and the injector coil is 19.8 OHMS. Does this sound better?
Thanks!
Nate

I have never got an ol reading on my meter,,, so you have me lost there,,, you have a couple good numbers, but a couple that arent good,,, as long as the specs that you were given are accurate, you have some problems,,, I would think the trigger coil would be lower and your timing sensor would be higher,,, your ol reading definetly isnt right though,,,, one last chance,,, you have a ground coming out of the stator and one coming from the cdi that go down and ground around the recoil assembly,,,, make sure that BOTH of these are properly grounded here and let me know what you see,,,,

Wh en I get my stator rebuilt will that take care of the ignition charge coil, trigger coil, and timing sensor?
Nate

and where is the CDI located on this sled?

isnt your cdi mounted up near your airbox????
getting the stator rebuilt will fix your winding problems,,, but not sure about the timing sensor,,,, on the old deere I just worked on, that is a seperate piece,,,,

Originally posted by Spaceman@May 21 2004, 06:18 AM
The kill switch can be unplugged at the base of the handlebars thus eliminating it from the system.
this statement isnt nessasarily true,if it runs a "normally open to run" it will work,if it runs a "normally closed to run" and you unplug it wont because you opened the loop,unless you short across from one wire to the other.do your trouble shooting in a logical order and youll find it,start with all the little things first,ground connections,are any wiring plugs partially out?,usually when a cdi quits its all done but not always,take nothing for granted.id bet on faulty stator,not sure if AC has a crank trigger or not but its a possibility.

it is a closed circuit, thats why spaceman offered that advice to bypass the switch and rule it out as a problem,,,, I am seeing some bad readings on his stator and think that is the problem, but I wanna make for certain that the cdi and stator are both grounded good before saying for sure,,,, I would be pi$$ed if I dug the stator out only to find out it was nothing more than a ground that came off,,,,,

Originally posted by machz1@Jun 4 2004, 07:06 PM
this statement isnt nessasarily true,if it runs a "normally open to run" it will work,if it runs a "normally closed to run" and you unplug it wont because you opened the loop,unless you short across from one wire to the other.do your trouble shooting in a logical order and youll find it,start with all the little things first,ground connections,are any wiring plugs partially out?,usually when a cdi quits its all done but not always,take nothing for granted.id bet on faulty stator,not sure if AC has a crank trigger or not but its a possibility.
This is true, and an important tip for the troubleshooter. the sled in question I was pretty sure was normally open. if it were normally closed there will be a jumper in the tool kit. This holds for Cats anyway.