If someone bought a stock sled (new or used), what would be the first mod to do and how much would it cost?

the best mod you could do to a new or used sled, is make sure its clutched good. Even if you are not a performance junky and you dont care about beatting all of your buddies. having the apropriate clutch setup makes your machine work better and you can improve its gas mileage. Most difenetly make sure the clutch is in good conditions, bushings ar enot wore out, springs are still good. Little things like that. Clutch work can cost anywhere from a 100$ to 400$ if you go with a different setup because if you are looking for the right setup, it may take you a few different tries and some time to get it where you want it.

Racing Stripes! and lots of stickers :lol: naw prolly what he said, clutching.....tried to tell mom it would save me money in the long run so i dont burn belts as fast because it wont slip... :lol: :hallo1:

I agree with clutching

Depends on the sled. If it is used make sure it is gone threw to make all the minor repairs if any. I prefer to get the handling dialed in first. If I need different springs or shocks I take them out. Skis, carbides, studs, handlebars etc. Then I concentrate on clutching and motor work. Speed is no good if the sled is not set up right.

I would go with studs first then clutching

I've already installed studs on my sled. Now I am waiting for Dalton to come out with some new helix angles to replace the stock cast aluminum. Also considering changing the stock roller plate with one from Lencco. Total cost is in the hood of $300 when I am done / bankrupted w00t

one other thing to note, even though a sled is brand new doesnt mean it is clutched right. it may work ok, but there are ussually big gains if you work with the clutch.

Originally posted by dawg@Jun 2 2004, 04:48 PM
one other thing to note, even though a sled is brand new doesnt mean it is clutched right. it may work ok, but there are ussually big gains if you work with the clutch.
I can vouch for that. My T660 secondary clutch roller plate and helix do not sit evenly. That is, one or two of the rollers can be spun around==>not setup and centered properly. Since I am going to tear the thing apart, I might as well replace those parts with machined billet helix and roller plates.

One of the more fun things to do this summer = rebuild your clutches.

I guess there goes my two year warranty. Well only if someone tells them :tongue:

100% studs are the first mod that should be done.

:withstupid: Studs should on the first on the list if you encounter any ice on your rides and with added studs you may want to upgrade the stock runners. Though clutching would be the best bang-for-the-buck if looking for more performance. I know stock clutching on my ZRT is far from perfect, hopefully I'll change that this winter.

every sled of mine as it enters the garage is studded, geared down two on the top, and clutched..

Originally posted by ballsout1@Jun 2 2004, 08:26 PM
every sled of mine as it enters the garage is studded, geared down two on the top, and clutched..
pardon my ignorance again, What do you mean by geared down two on the top?

Thanks

He goes 2 teeth down on the top sprocket in the chain case. I think if I figure this out correctly that it should give him better acceleration. ?

Thanks. I also found a forum on mountain sleds (http://www.snowmobileworld.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=38164&st=0) which makes some sense to reduce the number of teeth on a sprocket.

I agree with a couple others. If it won't handle, all the power/clutching/whatever is totally useless. Carbides, studs, shocks come first for a good trail machine or ditch banger.

personal preference but id say skis first. most of the stock skis dont track anywhere near aftermarket ones. c&a, usi project x, simmons, power pros, etc. there are so many to choose from that it's a very easy and inexpensive way to gain performance and safety. :thumbsup: