OK, do mainly to budget contraint I have decdied I cannot get the Hooper 1100 for my ZRT800, but I can get the D&D 1000 Kit. Has anyone had experience with this, or can anyone recommend a better kit for the money?

Thanks

take 3 artic 1000cc cylinder and put that in your machine, you save a lot of money !!!is my opinion... whit d&d you paid for the name that,s it!!!and no more performance??? d&d or black magic sold piston for 81mm whit 20mm wrist pin but i,m not sure

D&D claims 190+ horse wouldn;t thta mean they are porting the jugs? I thought about what you said, but can I do that? D&D sadi with my pipes/reeds/breather adn their 1000 kit I could seee 204 HP. This is alot more that a 1000 TCat.

whit 1000cc artic cylinder you can have 190hp, put v-force,3 uni or k&n filter and shave the head .015 and run 92 octane gas, you have a reliable machine and 185 sure hp , don,t forget d&d said 190 hp but the real horsepower is 17??hp
my buddy buy 1010 kit D&D claim 186hp ,but on dyno (dlperformance)the motor give 162 hp!!!!!!!! built your own motor and save a lot money...

I forget that, 204 hp whit all stock (reed pipe)the cylinder is not stock....if you built your 1000kit ,at 185 hp your cylinder is stock,put pipe and 2 degree key,your near 200 hp whit always stock juggs!!!

I currently have teh D&D Trail Pipes, V-Force 3 reeds, Breather Box, I am confused with your last post:

forget that, 204 hp whit all stock (reed pipe)the cylinder is not stock....if you built your 1000kit ,at 185 hp your cylinder is stock,put pipe and 2 degree key,your near 200 hp whit always stock juggs!!!

Are you sayign all I need to do is put 1000 jugs on it and the key? If I recall correctly a T-0cat 1000 is abotu 172 isn't it, maybee I am wrong.

fast ,if you have pipe ,power breather,v-force ,and 2 degree key... put 1000 juggs stock and you have near 200hp motor, and don,t forget to shave your head .015 for run 92 octane gas!!! if you send your 800 cylinder to d&d =bore and re nickasil=1500 u.s dollars what I mean is buy just 3 -1000 artic cylinder and modify your 800 head , the cost is very lower than 1500 u.s and go on trail whit 200 hp is very reliable machine!!! on my t-cat 2000 green whit 01 c.d.i I run 4 degree key whit all this modification and my juggs is ported and my crankcase too...and near 220 hp but not reliable machine for long distance and need a digatron pyro!!!

What I don;t understand is this: Supposedly a stock T-Cat 1000 is supposed to be about 172HP. I I just put them jugs on mine how much power would my pipe and reeds make it??? I don;t think they will give me 28HP and I am not sure about that 172# either. I think the porting is what matter most, and that is the decesion really. I could spend anywhere from $400-$600 for T-cat jugs, maybee even a little more because I want to start with new or redone ones. Then I need pistons, $300, then the heads either need to be bought for another $100-$150, and milled $100$-150, plus more not included (new top bears, gaskets, etc that is ) it comes out to between $900 and $1300, Honestly projects alwasy end up on the high side for me, so I would figure $1500 or so by the time that was done, then I am at best a piped 1000. Or for $1699 D&D will include everything I just listed ready to go, plus I will have what should be realtively good port job (seems to be pretty field proven from what I have heard). It just seems like a better deal. Even if I found jug I would have to have them bored, then ported, then coated, it is alot of trouble and hassle, shipping here, shipping there, #### I want some time to relax, I want to purchase a ready to go kit and D&D seems to have a good deal. Now what ignition do I use, I do not have the key, that I will need. Thanks

for the horsepower my 2000 artic all stock1000cc tcat mine 166hp... just put uni filter 172hp!!!on dyno ,sure whit d&d you put the kit in the machine and no problem and no waste of time , but 204 hp not sure... for the timing put 2 degree key ,not more for trail

Hey King, do you see where I am coming from, it seems like the same amount of money to put the kit together myself or buy one. But what do you mean about the key? Does that make it untrailable? Also I see liek yoruself alot fo people using diffetn CDI's, I have a 2000 ZRT800, do I use mine or a different one?
Also they only claim 190+ with stock pipes, the 204 is with their pipes (which I do have) perfectly tuned, I would venture to say if I get the kit, I should be looking at between 190 and 195 real HP. Very respectable for a trail machine.
Thanks

on the 2000 c.d.i zrt or thundercat a difference of 3 degree in the timing curve compare at 99 or 01 c.d.i ,in fact you lose a little bit acceleration, for trail you can put a 2 degree timing key, by exemple on my t-cat I put a 01 c.d.i (better than 2000c.d.i)and I put 4 degree timing key for race!!! not for trail ,in fact if you put a big timing key you can have a problem whit detonation and damage your motor

fast 426, most tcat riders prefer the 01 cdi due to its timing curve, a stock tcat is around 166 hp if you add pipes reeds and air box mods you will be around 185hp, if D@D claims 204 hp ask them if they will gurantee it ,i will bet that they wont ,also if you run a timing key keep an eye on the exhaust temps because tcat run real hot in the midrange area

Gamer, have you seen those #'s on a dyno before (the 185)? I definatley think that 166 sounds right for stock. I am sure you are right about the guarentee, maybee if you had them build it then, but I don;t know even then.

Now abotu that CDI, do I just change the box itself, are the connectors and all the same? Would I want the 99 or 01 or does it not matter? Thanks Dale

fast, if you want change the c.d.i you have no choice ,take the 01 c.d.i is the best box whit the t.p.s sensor unit, and just change the c.d.i box is the same connector
but personnally just put 2 degree timing key =20 u.s$$ and almost same result than the 2001 c.d.i if you change the box ,the cost is 385 u.s$$

Is there a difference in ZRT800 CDI's and T-Cat CDI's? Which one would I get (just in case I find a good deal) if I decide to make mine a 1000 (or worst case if it stays an 800). Thanks

If they are the D&D F-5 cylinders then they will out perform the stock tcat cylinders, a friend of mine has them and his sled is very, very fast.

fast i,m not sure ,but I think is the same... anyway put thunder c.d.i !!!

fast, yes those are honest numbers from the dyno,the b@m pipes and thee d@d pipes were about the same dont know about cpr pipes but i can tell you with a 185 hp and a good clutch kit you will be very fast and out pull most sleds within 200 feet

The magnetos for 00 ZRT and 01 T-Cat are different, is there a physical difference? I know the CDI is Different, but what about the magneto?

a stock 1000 tcat has to have more then 166 hp, ski doos 1000 twin they claim can get 165hp, plus the tcat is a triple and the new mach is a twin, i know the sled makers are not right on their weights and hp but come on 166hp out of a 1000 triple it has to be more then that

Originally posted by tony_opie@Aug 26 2004, 06:15 PM
a stock 1000 tcat has to have more then 166 hp, ski doos 1000 twin they claim can get 165hp, plus the tcat is a triple and the new mach is a twin, i know the sled makers are not right on their weights and hp but come on 166hp out of a 1000 triple it has to be more then that
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It was only rated at 172, so figure that is optimum condiitons. The new Mach is a few years newer, so better technolgy (ie fuel injection, computer controlled). I bet 166 is about right on average, possibly a little low, but not much.

I have heard that the 172hp of the T-cat, was done on a cold dyno pull. On a fully warmed up(trail temperature)motor, It makes closer to 165-168hp.

Anyway, IMO, go with John Hoopers kit. I live about 20 miles from him, and I've seen his 1050's,1404's,700's,and 640 kits run. They run HARD.

Also John's HP ratings are done with trail jetting, fully warmed up, and on his own dyno, that he's been using for years.

I have seen alot of unhappy customers with D+D products, but then again, I have seen happy ones too.

Never heard fo an unhappy customer of Johns.

Well its too late for the Hooper, the cylinders are probably getting close to done now. John at Race Logic is doing it. I want the forged pistyons, so I can juice it later if need be. With all the other kits they come with cast and that is just not suitbale for nitrous. Hoepfully it all works out good, you all will find out! I am currently looking at igniton upgrades, so if you have any input that would be great (IO think I am just going to buy a 2001 CDI box and call it good), also jetting, I would love a referecne.