looking for a new track,i have the .900 a few lugs torn off.i ride mostly on hard pack sled has clutch kit,and a mbrp can.was thinkin about a 1.250 track. i need to get more traction,plety of power but need more bite.

I have a 2001 xc-800 that has light mods and a EPI pro clutch kit and 24/41 gears. I had the stock.9 track with 168 studs for 2 season, I wasnt happy with off trail performance( 2~3' of lightly packed snow) . Last season I put a polaris 1.25 track part #5411487 ,its a lot differnt then the OEM in handeling and traction! I did stud this one but only 96 up the middle with woodys dubble backers. I would highly suggest any one looking to do a track upgrade to go to a 1.25"! Useing less studs the track is about the same weight so I didnt loose much top end, maybe 2 mph. With only 96 studs in a 140 hp sled as you can imagine its not a ice racer but it does ok! I saw a buddy go down a hill backwards without studs on ice, that not going to happen to me! This season I am doing a 136" x1.25" ripsaw with studs to my prox 700 , ride quality and traction its a winning combo! Get the 1.25 track of your choice and change your gearing to 24/41 , it will be the beast you have wanted! If you never do any high speed runs drop the gearing slighly more..... 24/42? the 24/41 will still do 110 mph no problem

By the way there isnt any problems on hard pack trails the slides will stant up just fine.... Ice on a lake you will want scratcher is you run on ice for more then a mile snow less! but thats true of any track combo......

I agree with xc-mark. Now is a good time to consider a 136 conversion. The track is the majority of the expense. There is no doubt about an increase in traction with one of those. My experience has been that your riding style may tell you if you want to do that conversion. I've found that if you enjoy a big contolled slide through a corner on any kind of regular basis, you will probably not enjoy the 136. There is actually too much traction for that kind of play even with no studs. It can be done, but takes big power to get the back end loose. That takes some room that isn't always there. Anywhere else though, it is clearly much better, no matter how aggressive you want to get with it.

If you are staying with a 121, let the heigth of the track be determined by how many studs you want to run. If the answer is just a few for trail traction, 1.25 is the only answer.

We run 1.25 Polaris tracks on our 600's 700 and 800's. Mostly trail riding, some powder dictch riding and open fields. Great all around tracktion.. I run 120 Ice screws in the lugs for Ice control. It will still slide corners in hard pac k but will get up up those icy hills.

im not a fan of the 136". just another reason for people to say"thats why you beat me". im testing a new track this year its a full lug 1 3/16" 121". i was running the finger track and it was ok. it left with everyone at lost pines even some longtrackers. im convinced its all about the setup of you suspension. not all long trackers are good leavers, but a well setup one will get a sled and a half on a good 121" setup. the longtracker costs some topend. im not sure how many mph. in snow the long track doesnt really help after 60'. IMO mike

Mike, that's what I was trying to say. The 136 isn't for everyone. I installed one on my XCR8 because I use it for all day performance type trail cruising, and it had a serious dose of track spin no matter how it was studded with the 121. I'm never sure what trail conditions are going to be like as we traverse across several trail grooming districts. The 136 is awesome in the smaller rough, and with a fully coupled Edge/clicker suspension setup, it's plenty capable anywhere. BUT, it's not anywhere near as playfull in the corners. Although I miss that, it's so capable everywhere else, I try to overlook it. Serious arm straightening traction, major grins. I don't know about top end, agree it's most likely affected it, but I no longer have the need for the 192 studs I was running with the 121. I'm not using any with the 136. That weight difference may cancel some or all of the drag....

What I did notice, was the gas milage. It went right down the tube. Was 10-12mpg,
now the only way to get 100 miles on a tank is breathing fumes for the last few miles. Regearing now. We'll see if I can't get some of that milage back.

Before this 136, which is a finger type, but with more emphasis on paddles for play in the fluff, I had a 121x 1 3/16 finger type track on it. I hated it. I felt it had nothing over the stock track on the trails, and even less than the stocker out in the looser stuff. It's sitting in a corner of the garage now with maybe 500 miles on it, 192 studs.

Al

i agree the longtrack will be a much smoother ride.

I would suggest looking at the Rip-saw 1.25. I have heard nothing but good reviews.

im staying with the 121 length,i was hoping for more replys with the rip-saw thats the track im leaning to.

I had a 1 5/8"- 121" snowX track on my 600 which is now waiting to go on my 800. I had no problem beating bigger mountain sleds with 2"-144" out of the hole. Thats why my 800 will stay a 121 for now lighter more nimble and faster all around.

The rip saw is a good track, no denying that. But I believe there are others that work very well also. One design is what they call a 'connected cone' design. It's a newer style finger type track, but with much more emphasis on the paddles. I've found it to work really well on hard packed trails because of the finger type design,
but when I get out on a lake or field, or even groomed trails that haven't been all packed down, I definetly have more traction than the track with just fingers because of the extra webbing. Take a very good look at some pictures to see what I'm talking about. You'll see a lot of open space on the ripsaw and others that are filled with webing on the one I'm speaking of. Camoplast 9854

bought the rip saw,we will see how it works.gonna use 144 1.375 studboys now i get the thrill of pullin the jack shaft.

you mean drive axel? how may drivers do you have on your drive axel?

sorry, you are right,it has 4.

shoot! if you have 3 or 2 you dont have to pull the chaincase, but your going to need to. its not that bad. once you do it a few times its a 2 hour job. mike