Well, as a couple of you know, I'm replacing my track and all the bearings.
Last night I went to take out the last bearing on the jackshaft with the locking collar. I got the collar unlocked, but can't seem to get the bearing to even move.
I don't want to do any damage. So I didn't beat on it too much.
I did put a little heat to the bearing. No help. Kroil. No Help Yet. Beat on it, No help.
Tried twisting it.
It sure would be a lot easier if you could get the shaft out of the sled to work on.
Plus I don't want to hurt the aluminum that this bearing and shaft sit in when reassembled.

So any tricks greatly appreciated. Thanks in Advance.

I had the same problem trying to get the bearing off the jackshaft. From the advise I was given on this site, I cut a hole in the belly pan the same size as the hole for the clutch bolt. Then I bought a used plug from Brown's to go in it. I slid the jackshaft out through the hole and used a cut saw to cut the bearing off of the jackshaft. I cleaned up the jackshaft with emery cloth and installed the ne bearing. Good luck.

Rob, those bearings get so rusted on man!! I think you might have to pull it out to change them!
Other then maybe cutting it with small grinder or Dremel tool and a bunch of those fibre reinforced cut off wheels.

Good luck!

So far I've always been lucky when replacing them & they just slide off. My dealer can't believe that they slide off for me. They say they almost always have to heat the bearings to get them off.

Mine was stuck as well.
Here is what I did.

I removed the brake rotor. That in itself was slightly difficult as it was stuck as well.
I removed some of the screws for the clutch side body panel near the footwell and on the under side of the sled. I flexed the body panel down and was able to slide the jackshaft out. I used a 3 arm puller to get the bearing off.

Thanks to all. Those are some good ideas. Yeah, everything else including the brake rotor have all been easy. Guess I'll beat on it a little more, then maybe try the removal of body panel screws and 3 arm puller. Really don't want to cut. Especially in the sled. If I decide to cut it while still in the sled, I guess I'll have to cover everything. Don't want metal shavings all over. Thanks Again.

Hey is the one on the driveshaft with the collar going to be just as bad. Besides it being out of the sled.
I'll keep you posted.
Not a bad idea about cutting a hole in the side, but really don't want to resort to that yet, plus it seems like its in a real big curve portion of the side.

Thanks Again. Man I love this site.

Originally posted by rfmckee@Oct 13 2004, 11:37 AM
Thanks to all. Those are some good ideas. Yeah, everything else including the brake rotor have all been easy. Guess I'll beat on it a little more, then maybe try the removal of body panel screws and 3 arm puller. Really don't want to cut. Especially in the sled. If I decide to cut it while still in the sled, I guess I'll have to cover everything. Don't want metal shavings all over. Thanks Again.

Hey is the one on the driveshaft with the collar going to be just as bad. Besides it being out of the sled.
I'll keep you posted.
Not a bad idea about cutting a hole in the side, but really don't want to resort to that yet, plus it seems like its in a real big curve portion of the side.

Thanks Again. Man I love this site.
352531


If you have the brake rotor off just remove about 6 body panel screws and pull the jackshaft out from the clutch side.

The one on the driveshaft may be tough as well, but at least you can pull the driveshaft out easily with the bearing still on. I had to use the puller to get that bearing off as well.

JGF ZR
Messed with it a little last night. Probably going to have to use your idea.
Gave up on the jackshaft and went to the driveshaft one. I used a socket to move it one way and then pryed it back the other and it popped right off. Easy.
So I think I will try your way to get the thing out and then probably use a puller.
Thanks Again.
I'll let you know how it all works out.
Going on vacation.

Well, I ended up taking off the mounting plate that the one engine mount is on that the jackshaft goes through. Then took it over to a buddies and used his press to get it off. We ended up breaking his press. But we got it off. The press is really old. But it was really stuck.
Shafts, and chaincase are now back together. Thanks again everyone.

I am changing mine right now as well. I just took the shaft out last night (I just took the belly pan screw out and pulled down the side cover then slide the shaft out). When you reasssembled yours, did you just set the new collar where the old one was at to keep gear and clutch alignment? Did you use locktite ont eh new shaft and on the top gear nut? Which locktitie did you use? Also what did you torque the top gear nut to? Thanks


Originally posted by rfmckee@Oct 25 2004, 10:34 AM
Well, I ended up taking off the mounting plate that the one engine mount is on that the jackshaft goes through. Then took it over to a buddies and used his press to get it off. We ended up breaking his press. But we got it off. The press is really old. But it was really stuck.
Shafts, and chaincase are now back together. Thanks again everyone.
356503

No loctite. Those are all locking style nuts. Tappered, or nyloc.
I basically just did a German Torque on everything. Goodintite.
A lot of you are probably cringing right now. The only bolt I religeously torque is the drive clutch bolt.
Leave that collar loose until you get the whole chaincase side backtogether. Then set that bearing in the bearing flange and then tighten the collar and set screw. you don't want anything to be in tension. Same on the driveshaft. I thought the collar was loose on the drive shaft when I installed, then I went to tighten the collar and it was already tight. I loosened it and it moved. Then just retightened.
This is just the way I did mine. I may be all wrong. But seems the best.
I don't have a manual.