I would just like to know what type of modding you guys have done and what to look out for suspension/motor wise.
it is a 00' model.

If it has not already been equipped with a torque arm, do not hesitate, put one on it now. You will save yourself time/aggravation, and most likely, a couple of blown belts, by doing this now. Arm is installed on the left front corner of the engine block, leads to shock tower. The left front motor mounts will break repeatedly until you do this mod.

This one works really well because it has a rubber bushing in one end that still isolates the chassis from vibration, and it's priced competitively with the rest:

http://www.slp.cc/Polaris_Catalog/wmsarm.html

While you are at it, a very carefull engine alignment is required to get this thing able to run at the speeds you have probably heard it's capable of. Might as well do it while you are messing with that arm. Close isn't good enough, it must be exact.

The '00 model has one breather hole in the top of the intake silencer. Until you mod the sled with pipes/porting, it works as well as the 2 holes in other year XCR's. There is NO DIFFERENCE in performance between them. Don't let anyone tell you different.

Stock clutching works very well as long as it's clean and the springs are reasonbly fresh. Clutch should engage 38-4000rpm. Motor should turn 82-8300. Check your jetting. You can safely drop 2 sizes safely. Running 420s in mine, and have run it that way in some very crispy -25f weather. Just don't try and run it WFO when it gets that cold. It's still pretty blubbery on those 30f days. Will do the Tempaflo thing one of these days.

I've done heavy mods to my suspension for performance trail use. Don't know how you plan on using yours, email me for details on mine if you would like.

Best advice I can give you, if you are new to this kind of sled, is to make SURE there is a LOT OF ROOM in front of you until you get used to it. It WILL accelerate so quickly and so smoothly that you have no concept of how fast you are really going until you realize how far it took you to get it stopped... be afraid, and you'll ride again tomorrow. It is something that will take 100 percent of your attention to ride safely.

Congratulations, you've bought one of the strongest running sleds ever built.

It's gota go 8500 rpm. If it only turns 8200-8300 its not near as fast. You have to jet as per Polaris manual for temp & altitude. If its not jetted correct it will only pull 115 mph. With correct jets it will run 121 mph on speedo on hard lake. It will run with Mr Tcat & sometimes beat it if you watch jetting better than him. Throttle much more responsive than TCat. XCR will out handle other heavy's in twistys. Lots of fun.

Originally posted by Turtle@Oct 16 2004, 10:21 AM
It's gota go 8500 rpm. If it only turns 8200-8300 its not near as fast. You have to jet as per Polaris manual for temp & altitude. If its not jetted correct it will only pull 115 mph.* With correct jets it will run 121 mph on speedo on hard lake. It will run with Mr Tcat & sometimes beat it if you watch jetting better than him. Throttle much more responsive than TCat.* XCR will out handle other heavy's in twistys.* Lots of fun.
353553

It was my fathers sled. So I have run it before. I had it on the lake in perfect conditions and had it up to 121 on the speedo. There were 2 other people with 800 xcr's i was riding with that pulled away from me at that speed. (they had some work done though. pipes and such.)
I have v-force reeds on the sled too.

Polaris jetting specs are way rich - but safe. Run what you like I guess.

About one size I'd say.

420's should be good for jetting. I also ran mine @ 8300-8400. It will pull a heavier weight (10-62's) with almond round. Hopefully you are studded with a good track, or you won't plant that HP.

Michahicks is right about the aribox top, it does help a little more with a modded motor. And a torque arm is a must. If you don't have one now, check the front PTO motor mount and make sure it isn't broken

Porting the motor is the best mod. If you don't want to get into the motor, pipes are a bolt on that will give some more HP and are a safe mod. I'd suggest HTG/Dynoports since they fit nicely into the stock canister and aren't too loud.