Ordered a set of 4in woodys from royal, and they are junk as far as I am concerned, they are going back :cussing: . All there is , is one small pad of flat carbide, then a huge gap, then the cutting carbide, no hardweld, just a big gap. The cutting carbide, has a flat end, and will surly catch of the trailer, etc. The stock one have 3 pieces of flat in the front, and two in the backwith no gaps at all, so i went with another set of them. Anyone try anything else, that looks REAL durable? Royal has a set of Roetins, but they are 4/6in and thats more than I want, I run a fair bit of ski pressure, and don't want heavy steering.

I can't recommend a carbide for you,just wanted to say you are absoulutely right about needing the hardweld in between the carbide.Any that I have used without it either the carbide chips and breaks away or the bar wears away between the peices of carbide. :cussing:

Yeah so far stock ones seem best

You might check into the Saber shaper ones. They "look" really well made -- lots of flat carbide in place of hard-weld.

Royal doesn't sell them, but I got a price from them of $55 for 4", and $68 for 8" Canadian per pair.

Sabre Dist Canada (Barrie ON) 705-737-9666

Let me know how you make out! I'll need some for myself if we ever get any frigg'n snow.

Check ebay for Saber carbides, all sizes and good prices.
I bought a set of 6's and 8's.

Bottom Line or Bergstrom........bergstroms kinda look homemade, but they have a nice heavy bead of hardface on them usually.

I am running Stud Boy 6" carbides on my precision ski's and its way to much carbide. Quality wise the Stud boys are holdong up well. When I need to replace I will stay with them but go for the 4" version or maybe the 6" outside and 4" inside which is supposed to be the "hot" set up. Todd

Where have you found the best price and what was it?

Which brand is lasting the longest in the worst conditions? (Ski Doo, Woodys, Roetin, Stud Boy, etc.)

Last year I was riding in the UP. The first day was Ok riding but we did ride a lot of logging trails and a few hard pack situations. I was riding a yam 600 sxr. We put on 80 miles that day.

I had to get new carbides for the next day. I ended up buying 6 inch Woody's. We rode the next day in the same conditions (180 miles) and the new carbides were already gone.

Another guy I rode with had Stud Boy 9 inch carbides on his 600 XC and his still looked brand new. He said he had almost 1500 miles on his and never replaced them because he didn't have to.
I will never buy Woody's again, but thats my opinion

I've used woody's with those results. I think the stockers on my flex skis lasted longer than 6" woody's. I was wondering if anyone's tried staggering the precision skis with different carbides on each side of the ski with good results, like longer carbide on the outside or hardbars on one side and carbide on the other etc. Has anyone tried this????

I would look at the berkstrum skegs line they are very good for the money. SWRules

Yeah stay away fromt the woodys, they are junk compared to stock, they only have one little pad of carbide infront of the cutting carbide, stock 4in has 4!I had ordered a set and sent them back, and bought stock ones. Haven't seen what any others look like.

Just wondered who has run the Stud Boy shaper bars in their precision ski's. I have been using the Stud boy switchback (6") all the way across. I am thinking of going to the shaper bars and going with the 4.5" carbide all the way across. Has anyone tried this? I am running 168 studs if that matters.

Also, if someone were to run the 4" and 6" carbides in the precision's, which carbide should go where? the longer to the inside or outside? Or, doesn't it matter? Thanks, Butch.

I ride a 1997 Mach 1 with a 9818 1.25" track, and Precision Skis. I ran a studded track with the stock 4" doo carbide on the inside of the skis, and the Stud-Boy 6" round bars on the outside. I found that combination to be good, but the steering seemed pretty un-responsive until you turned more, then it would turn too much, and one ski would lift off the ground.

This season, I put on the 1.25" track and I switched the carbides around, and put the 6" on the inside, and the 4" outside. So far, that combo has been great for me. I have only done a little trail riding this year (most of it's been back woods riding and playing in fields), and it seemed to work well.

I also have a set of 6" shaper bars waiting to go on when one of the sets of carbide wears down enough. I am on my second season on the stud-boy 6" bars. I will probably do the 4.5" shapers and 6" shapers next season, or else just get another pair of 6" to have 6" all the way around.

The possibilities are endless.

Jim

4.5 sharp and 6 sharp b/m 800 192 studs! 4.5 inside and 6 on the out works great for me!

Thanks!

6" on the outside and the 4" on the inside.
I was going to do the shaper bars this year but cheaped out (after i bent my trailing arm) and put roetins all the way around got the fullset both skis 6's and 4's for $99.00US. Let us know how the shaper bars work out on the precision skis.

Will do. I'm heading up to the UP this weekend and am going to try the 4.5 shaper bars all the way across.

I read in Snowtech I think? that they tried putting new carbides only on the outsides of the precision skis and running dull ones on the inside and they felt they got good results in do so. Anyone here try anything like this? How did it work for you? Also are new ones better on the outside or inside?

thanks

I can't comment on the new vs old carbides, but this year I tried 2 different length carbides on each side and it works sweet the handling is a hundred times better especially when cornering over the stock length carbides. I believe the package i got from Roetin for $91.00 had two six inch and two 4 or 4.5 inch carbides. I put the long ones on the outside of each ski and they are sweet!

Yep, that's the way to go.

when i ordered carbides for my sled the other night the attendant at Royal Distributing was onto me about two different lengths of carbide for the sled. i was pleasantly surprised at how knowledgeable he was. bought me one of those ski-doo REV diecast models too. :wink:

I'm riding an 04 GSX 600 SDI with 96 Roetin Hornets in a Vee pattern down the middle. Am looking to replace the stock carbides in the precision skis. What should I be looking for? I ride mostly trails. Have heard of 6-8 inches outer, 4 inches inner. Where would I buy these, and are there different shapes/materials I should look for? thanks.

Roetin will have a guide for carbide up front to pick ratio. It should have come with your picks. Call them they will tell you they've been doing this since early 70's, experts.

Use the intense carbides and you can get them from any doo dealer. The stock carbides are junk and should be replaced ASAP with the intense carbides IMHO

LadyK,
When you say "Intense", are you referring to Roetin carbides? I'm going to ask my Doo dealer, and want to at least sound like I know what I'm looking for. Thanks!

No she is talking about Doo carbides. I would go with Doo carbides or at least woodys on the roetin carbides the host bar looks to me like its to flimsy and wont last.

Ian

Just got back from the UP and tried the Stud Boy shaper bars. I used 4.5" all the way across. I was happy with that set-up. I am running 168 studs and found the 4.5 to be plenty. In fact, I wouldn't want any more carbide than that. Just my opinion.

part number for intense carbides are 860505100

I use the Stud Boy shaper bars as well. However, from trying different combinations I found the best was 6" on the inside and 4" on the outside. Try it once and i bet you will like it better....

I ended up ordering Roetin's matched set of 6"/4" carbides, which should arrive tomorrow. The Roetin rep told me to put the longer skegs on the outside, shorter on the inside. Why am I seeing advice here saying just the opposite?

I found the best was 6" on the inside and 4" on the outside.

That is exactly , how I install them also as this is were the most weight is when seated on the machine.

Originally posted by japgen@Jan 28 2004, 01:15 PM
I ended up ordering Roetin's matched set of 6"/4" carbides, which should arrive tomorrow. The Roetin rep told me to put the longer skegs on the outside, shorter on the inside. Why am I seeing advice here saying just the opposite?
Same here and thats how I installed mine. The sled handles sweet and to me its a large improvement over the stock carbides. However, now that I see these other posts I wonder which side of the ski would be better to install the longer carbide on? :crazy:

How much carbide are you guys running on the stock duel runner Skidoo skis.
The sled is an 03 renegade 600, 1 1/4" lug track with out studs, going to the novi show tomorrow looking for good deals. :D

Last year I had the stock 4", this year I put on Woodys' 6" 60 degree carbides. My buddy ran them last year and he said they worked really well. My track is studded with 216 doulbe backer picks and I wanted better bite in the corners, the guys at Woodys' said they will work excellent.

I run twin 6" on each ski, for a total of 24" of 60 degree,1/2 host bar carbide.

mtrsprt
are you using studs??????????????

I run two 6" 60 degree on each ski 1/2 host. 24 inches of carbide total but, i'm also running 144 woodys 1.325 studs on a 1.250 track.

Originally posted by zeng62@Nov 4 2004, 11:32 PM
mtrsprt
are you using studs??????????????
360291
Yes, 168 1.15" SS trail studs.

I'm going to go a little off topic on this one. I have the Woody Shaper bars for my Dual Runner ski's. I can't remember if it's recommended to install these on the inside positions or on the outside??? Any thoughts.

Originally posted by FlyingDutchman@Nov 5 2004, 01:33 PM
I'm going to go a little off topic on this one. I have the Woody Shaper bars for my Dual Runner ski's. I can't remember if it's recommended to install these on the inside positions or on the outside???* Any thoughts.
360420


Both but if you only do one set, I would put them on the inside.

I like positive steering and always used 8-10" or 60 degree carbide runners on my previous Polaris and Cats. What do you recommend I run on my Mach1000 with precision skis? I was thinking about 6" shaper bars on each side. Is it true that these skis dont turn well in powder? Maybe the shapers would help. I hate to by new skis again (I had SLP powder pros on my F7 and liked them).

I run dual 6" runners on each ski, for a total of 24". Works wonders. 168 studs out back.

most aggressive riders will put 4" (or a duller set) on the inside and 6" (or sharper set) on the outside.

Originally posted by Rocketman@Nov 15 2004, 05:29 PM
most aggressive riders will put 4" (or a duller set) on the inside and 6" (or sharper set) on the outside.
363765

why more carbide on the outside? I had heard just the opposite before.

Originally posted by permafrost@Nov 14 2004, 10:48 AM
This topic again :)

The simmons are really close to the same design as the precision but they are much bigger providing even more flotation.* The stock carbides that come on the Precision are a joke and should only be used on small sleds.* I run the intense carbides.* Put the 6" on the inside and run the 4" on the outside.* I have a 1.75" track on my gade and have ZERO push in the corners, it absolutely rails through the corners, hard or fluff.* It is almost impossible to get my sled to powerslide through a corner.* Quick adjust limiter straps can help in the tweaking of your sled too.* Try taking your one hand off the handlebars at 100mph with flex skiis even with easy steer.* With the precisions it runs true no darting , another bonus.* Just M3cents, as everyone has an opinon on this due to riding styles and conditions.

Perm
363337

Now I'm really confused :crazy:

DON'T BE (but there is a reason why there are two answers).

To set the record STRAIGHT you put the longer CARBIDE on the INSIDE of the ski on REV platform machines (just as Permafrost and myself have already said). The reason is just like in skiing - your skis cant (angle) to the inside when you turn so the outside edges are off the snow. Thus you want the longer carbides on the inside edge where they're actually getting used. This is for trail riding and for lakes/ice.

Now, things CHANGE when you talk about powder/mountain riding. Here carbide makes diddly squat and the depth of the wear rods makes all the difference. Shaper bars and Woody's 1/2" bars are DEEPER than stock so if you put these on the outside, you would have equivalent forces then inside and out when the ski cants (angles) over. I've also heard Doo recommend the outside for carbide too on pre-Rev MXZ's because the skis don't really cant when you turn them.

I hope this clears up the confusion :crazy:

Cheers,

G MAN :christmas:

Ahhh Sooo :cool:

Yeah BOKMAN, it's true the precision ski's don't turn worth a darn in powder. I've got 6" on the inside and outside of my 2002 mxz and have tried more setups than I care to remember to get them to turn in powder. You need to have a deep V cut for powder. Maybe they're different on the Rev models, I'm not sure. I do know the precisions are awsome on packed snow.

Whoops...sorry about the confusion...didn't eat my wheaties that day...my bad..

Originally posted by BOKMAN@Nov 13 2004, 01:12 PM
I like positive steering and always used 8-10" or 60 degree carbide runners on my previous Polaris and Cats. What do you recommend I run on my Mach1000 with precision skis? I was thinking about 6" shaper bars on each side. Is it true that these skis dont turn well in powder? Maybe the shapers would help. I hate to by new skis again (I had SLP powder pros on my F7 and liked them).
363089

I just asked a very similar question to my Doo dealer yesterday. You should run 1 shaper bar and one 6" per precision ski, not 2 shapers on each. Also if you are studded use this configuration otherwise i'm told it is too much bite. I have an 03 rev with precision skis, and that's what they told me. Since i'm not studded, they didn't recommend shapers. Good luck :undercover:

Doo dealers aren't always right. While what they said my be fine for the Midwest or East Coast, it won't work for Western powder riding. Like I've said before, carbide makes zero difference in powder (in fact, there is a shaper bar made of aluminum with NO carbide for mountain sleds) but the added depth of the shapers will prevent pushing in corners. You need two shapers per ski for powder, just as they recommend at Simmons (same design as the precisions only wider). Peeps that say the precisions don't do well in powder just don't get it - carbide has nothing to do with turning/tracking in powder.

G MAN