[attachmentid=16756][attachmentid=16755]Ok lets try this again

So how exactly did you do this? and how much traction do you have now at the rear??? doesn't look like much

[attachmentid=16759][attachmentid=16758]some more

[attachmentid=16761][attachmentid=16760]and more

[attachmentid=16762]This machine is a old battle horse and will not die. I love it. And I dont have to worry abour messing it up because it already a little messed up. But it still goes like hell. This is a very easy mod that will cost nothing and will take about 5 hours to do. All the required parts are already on the sled.

That certainly is wild looking...How is the actualy suspension travel though, I know my MX only has about an inch or so in the front.


That thing is just begging for a SC-10

a good 6" of travel. and its very stable. I dont know why skidoo didn't make them like this. Its a must do for all prs suspensions.

The stock shocks have about 2.5" of total travel but since they are mounted about a foot from the ski this allows the ski to travel further (approx 6" to 7") up and down. The stock shocks are VERY stiff. A softer gas shock would be an awesome addition BUT you might have to fool around and reinstall the sway bar. But you dont need the sway bar with the stock shocks.

This is a very easy mod to do. Just remove the shocks, pivots and pivot arms and install the shocks in a vertical position. Thats it. The best part is there is enough room under the hood to fit 16" long shocks and all the parts are stock. So if something breaks you just purchase it as you would normally.

Next I will drop the front portion of the track and mess with the rear suspension a bit.

[attachmentid=16764]Last years pic.

man you're gonna get a lot of snow in the cowling with absolutely no prs boots on there, mine are torn and i could feel the belt slipping when i went into the deeper stuff on my last ride

looks great though

hey, where in manitoba are you?

Yeah my boots were shot. That was one of the reasons for the change. Originally these machines are so low to the ground that snow deeper than a foot would almost be impossible to sled in unless you keep it pinned. I just finished it on the week end and test drove it. We have about 6" of snow on the ground. I used about half a tank and then took the pictures. With the extra lift barely any snow came in. Before with torn boots being so low to the ground it would of been flooded with snow.(download the previous pic and you can see what i mean)

I plan to seal up the openings with thick wall tractor tire tube and rivets. I will cover only the top and leave the suspension exposed. This will seal out any snow from entering. As you can see there is so much more lift that I had to cut the belly pan to allow the lower suspension arm full movement.

I live near Lockport.

my sledless friend model is a 88mx prs, and i always daydreamed about getting more frontend ground clearance. those frankenstein sled projects are always cool. i thought about somehow just getting longer ski legs but never did find any. i think you may have lost some of the skis ability to change camber with respect to the ground, but WTF, at least in deep snow you won't look like an overgrown mole burrowing along beneath the snows surface. ha ha ha . go for a sc10 upgrade...someone on this site was selling a clean used one for $200.

well it looks kewl...but what about when you get flyin down the lake with that thing wont she lift bad?....

Went for a few more test drives and will defiantly need to drop the front portion of the track. There is a bit too much ski pressure. But there is defiantly an improvement on the way it handles the rough stuff compared to stock.

wow, i'm impressed! the front susp (and the rear susp too...) is really lacking on thoes years. anyways, a few comments i would like to make,

est142, its my understanding from the pictures that he did not change the geometry of the suspension at all, just the position of the shocks. this would keep any camber/caseter changes that the suspension originaly possesed the same.

also, have you considered the concequences of the changed positon of the shock on the front frame of the sled? originaly the thick triangle shaped bars that are on either side of the shock were designed to be in tension. now, you've induced a bending moment on them, and i would be seriously concerned that they are going to fail on you at some point. my guess is that the welds will begin to crack on the larger side (not the side pointed twards the front of the sled).

Lastly, for the rear susp... on my 93, we had to put a lift on the rear suspension because the picks in the track were eating up the heat exchanger. we moved the mounting points for the rear shocks down 2" or so... the suspension works nicer now too.

- Jason

also, have you considered the concequences of the changed positon of the shock on the front frame of the sled? originaly the thick triangle shaped bars that are on either side of the shock were designed to be in tension. now, you've induced a bending moment on them, and i would be seriously concerned that they are going to fail on you at some point. my guess is that the welds will begin to crack on the larger side (not the side pointed twards the front of the sled).

- Jason
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Thanks for motioning the possible failure with the welds. Now that I have examined the frame further its very obvious the the original design is intended for continuous pressure in the horizontal position opposed to the now vertical position. I am usually under the hood once every ride to check things out and now I will keep a close eye on these spots. Worst case scenario is the weld would break and the suspension would revert back to normal. w00t .

CAUTION! BLEW OUT FRONT SHOCK! The pivot angle at which the suspension travels is now an issue with the design of the front shocks. The bottom eye of the stock shock shaft connection is not designed for much horizontal pressure at all. The solution will be to replace the stock shocks with softer gas shocks and loosen the spring pressure.
Ill order the shocks from royal in the next couple of days.
Not to worry about blowing out the suspension at full speed cause the only thing that happens is the suspension reverts back to stock. Its just a pain to ride back home slower than normal.

Well at least your ridin!