I recently had a really hard time removing my primary clutch. I ended up cutting it off after trying all other options. I was replacing the whole clutch anyways.

What I am wondering is, do you think it's safe to no seize the crank shaft before putting the clutch back on.

My service manual doesnt say to do this or not to do this. But other people have told me not to put anything on the shaft. I just don't want to have the same problem again.

Also, is it safe to clean the crank shaft with brake cleaner before putting the clutch on?

Thanks!

That's a really good question. I've never heard of anyone using it though, so I can't say for sure if it's a good idea or not.
I think the best option is to remove your clutch for servicing at least once a year, and this should prevent it from ever getting stuck on. Same thing goes for the driven.

i would, that crap will be all over under the hood for awhile.

I was in the same boat your in about a year ago this time.. What I did was justs smeared alittle no Seize on the shaft. Not much, just slighty. Smeared it around out side, the put my clutch on.. Do you self a favor like paul said, and pull it every year any way for maint. I puller is only like 40 bucks i think.. long run, it will be worth it..

I've put a thin layer of grease on mine. Most people I've talked to say not to. If you do, keep it very clean, and very thin.
I'm with Newfie, it's best to disassemble from time to time anyway.

Absoultly NO I repeate NO grease or oil of any kind!!!
Clean both the crank and clutch ends with a solvent like brake cleaner then a scotch pad.
This is a taper fit anything oily will let the clutch spin on the crank, then you'll have some real problems.

Use a puller, it's the only way possible to get a clutch off.

I Never used to put anything on. Then on the wifes 00 pwdrsple the clutch would not friken come off. A had my brother inlaw come over . He races sled and he could not get it off. Used all the tricks and got it off. Now on my sleds i clean it very well then put a very small(!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) amount of never seize. It is so much better now. I should also say that the cl.utch comes off because we go out to the mt.s at least once a year.

Originally posted by Mikadoo@Dec 12 2004, 08:43 PM
Absoultly NO I repeate NO grease or oil of any kind!!!
Clean both the crank and clutch ends with a solvent like brake cleaner then a scotch pad.
This is a taper fit anything oily will let the clutch spin on the crank, then you'll have some real problems.

Use a puller, it's the only way possible to get a clutch off.
374469

:withstupid:

Totally agree.

I would like to fins this out. I asked two toolmakers at work and one said yes, one said no. I alwasy thought no, but the more I think about it, I don;t know that it would, matter (from performance that is, it definatley could make disasembly easier). I wonder what the written rule is?

any lubricant caught between the inner and outer taper ( clutch and crank) can cause the clutch to "float" on the taper. NOT GOOD!

Some of the replies are pretty funny. With that being said you DO NOT want to put anything on a tapered crank or inside the hub of the primary clutch. This has nothing to do with the possibility of the clutch spinning on the crank or it floating. When you lube the crank or the primary and put the two together the lube actually causes the clutch to be pressed further onto the taper of the crank. A deeper set taper means the clutch will be that much harder to remove the next time.

Wow, it sounds like there is no definite yes or no here!

Well i'm still not sure what to do. I think I will clean the clutch and shaft with brake cleaner and a scotch pad and take my chances without using no seize. Maybe I will remove the clutch in the spring for storage. :bash:

Originally posted by brenty@Dec 13 2004, 03:14 PM
Wow, it sounds like there is no definite yes or no here!

Well i'm still not sure what to do. I think I will clean the clutch and shaft with brake cleaner and a scotch pad and take my chances without using no seize. Maybe I will remove the clutch in the spring for storage.* :bash:
374767


Yes, Do that, except, if you remove for storage, THEN put small amount of grease or something on crank taper, but remove in fall when you re-install clutch.

Now thats a great idea................ :withstupid: For sure you'll stay out of trouble doing it that way.


Happy sledding all
:cool:

Originally posted by brenty@Dec 13 2004, 03:14 PM
Wow, it sounds like there is no definite yes or no here!

Well i'm still not sure what to do. I think I will clean the clutch and shaft with brake cleaner and a scotch pad and take my chances without using no seize. Maybe I will remove the clutch in the spring for storage.* :bash:
374767


Yes there is a definite answer. This happens to be Ski Doo, but all the brands would be the same.

From the shop manual. "Do not apply anti-seize or any lubricant on crankshaft and drive pully tapers."

The attached is from page 05-03-8 of the '99 Ski Doo shop manual.

My vote is no. ANYTHING on the crank can/will prevent it from seating properly. Kind of like putting anti sieze on your brakes. The taper is meant to hold the clutch just as your pads hold the disk on your brakes......

If the clutch spins, both the crank, and the clutch will most likely be galled, and useless from that point on.

I always thought that the reason a clutch was really hard to get off is because it wasn't properly torqued during install. If the clutch isn't seated properly, I spins a miniscule amount actually welding to the taper, causing big problems the next time it is removed.
At least that is what has been my experience. Ever since I started ensuring they are torqued properly, no more problems.
btw never put anything between the clutch and the taper, you want friction there.....

NEVER LUBE A TAPERED MATING SURFACE!!!!
rob7374 said it best, lubing the taper will allow the clutch to slide too far onto the crank snub and will make it REALLY hard to remove the next time.

Be real careful with grease or other lubricant that can loose viscosity as it heats up. I have seen tapered fit pieces like this get greased, the grease gets hot and thins out, this releases the tapered fit a little, the clutch gets loose on the crank, spins tighter, breaks the clutch bolt, the clutch comes flying off and the crank snub gets destroyed in the process.
I have seen this hapen on a paper mill when I was working through college. (a belt feeder / roller assembly instead of a clutch, but secured exactly the same)
The maintenance guy was put in charge of changing light bulbs after that.

Clean the taper with brake clean or alcohol and torque the bolt to specs. Remove the clutch for the winter in you are worried about geting it off.
Vman

Originally posted by versatileman@Dec 14 2004, 11:51 AM
Remove the clutch for the winter in you are worried about geting it off.
Vman
375147


Summer?
Sorry. Had to do it.
Know what you mean.

My brother & I have been following 'doo's advice on this (no anti-seize) since themid 80s. Never had problems getting a clutch off. Just torque the bolt to the proper amount.

I have seen a clutch come off a sled & it's not pretty. Luckily nobody was hurt.

Thanks for the help guys! :p

I hope I don't have this problem again.

I know this is off topic, but I just checked out your site Brent. Looks as though the Arctic Cats have rubarb fetish! I always felt Cat's handled like crap, but I didn't think the steering was that bad!