I have been playing around with the clutching and gearing on my 1997 Mach 1. Here's my setup now:

285 Ramps
19.2 grams on adjustable pins
Clicker #4 for 8500 RPM on Tach @ Top Speed
New Pink/White Primary Spring (230-380)
HRP Black Ice 44 Degree Helix
New Beige Secondary Spring on B-6 (about 18 lbs)
24/44 Gearing

Stock engine, 1.25" track, no studs, 280 lb rider weight.

Running around on trails, drag racing, top speed runs down a plowed road, etc. clutches are nice and cool. Seems to be running very efficiently, but it doesn't seem to be loading the engine very hard. It fully shifts out, at least by measuring with a marker line, no line left at all on the primary.

I haven't lined up against anyone yet (unless a 97 FZ 583 counts. That wasn't even close to a race), but will be racing a few friends next week (05 Mach Z, 05 Firecat F-7, 03 Firecat F-8, etc..), I know I probably won't beat them, but I want to give them a good run.

I have some other parts that might help -- HRP 46 degree Black Ice Helix, HRP 48/44 Black Ice Helix, 145 ramps, 260/420, and 280/460 springs.

As for now, I was thinking of trying out the 46 degree helix and see if that speeds up the shift and keeps my secondary clutch temperature as cool as it is now.

Or should I just try to lower the secondary pre-load to get it to shift out faster? Would that hurt my backshift?

Thanks,

Jim
1997 Mach 1

Jim,
Throw the 46 in and see what happens.it should load it a little more and shoot you out of the hole better.

Dan

i was thinkin the 145 would work with the 260/420 spring...i bet its close, if i`m not mistaken i think i ran that in a 670 mach 1.. a earlier one.

With your rider weight, you really shouldn't want to totally shift out to the top of the primary. You will lose clutch efficiency, the more your clutches go into OD.

The TRA runs best about 1:1 to .95 ratio's. With your rider weight, and your gearing, I would say, try one tooth larger on top. You won't lose any holeshot, and your belt will be alot happier, as your clutches also. Your top end will increase also.

But, I don't care about top speed. I have had 26/44, 27/44, 27/43, 25/44 gearing in this sled in the past. I have done my share of lake runs, radar runs, and I really don't care to go any faster than 100 mph anymore.

I am actually debating putting in a 23 top gear, but want to get 24/44 dialed in better to see where that gets me.

The way I see it, I was counterproductive by changing my gearing down to 24/44 *and* changing the helix to a 44 degree Black Ice. I geared down, and slowed my shift rate down. As far as I can tell, the primary seems to be doing it's job OK, there's no belt goo anywhere and my RPMs look good, it pulls up to 8500 and stays there. It just feels like my engine isn't working very hard.

I think the BI helix that I have in there now would have been a great choice with the stock gearing and my body weight.

I am going to throw in the 46 degree helix this weekend and see what that does for me. If that makes it better, then I will see if I can find a 48 degree helix somewhere, or I will give the 48/44 a try.

Is there another way to get the clutches to shift faster than to change my helix angle? I know I can add more pin weight, but wouldn't that just drag down my top speed rpms? I can also loosen the preload on the secondary, but that would cause more belt slip, and worse backshifting?