The local carnival is in a week and a half. What are some adjustments I can make for best traction. So far I have the limiter straps as loose as possible. the front spring of rear suspension really tight, and the rear springs as loose as possible. Am I on the right track? I was reading my owners manual and thats the direction it steered me.

Here's a couple of changes without major work.

You can flip the rear rubber coupling block protectors backwards. It will let the rear squat a little bit more for better weight transfer.

You might want loosen the track up a little, as long as the drive sprockets do not skip on track lugs.

Also, you can adjust the clicker on the secondary clutch so the belt sits about 1/8 inch above the top of the clutch.

Go on a diet... :tongue:

LOL. Diet, I like food to much!! Well I'm not all that heavy to begin with, about 145 pounds. What advantage would adjusting my secondary like you said give? Coupling block protectors. Without trying to sound tooo dumb. What are they? Is the coupling block the 2 plastic{or rubber i'm not sure}{one on each side} that slide back and forth in that slot on the suspension rails?

Originally posted by BrokeButLovinIt@Jan 27 2005, 09:07 PM
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LOL. Diet, I like food to much!! Well I'm not all that heavy to begin with, about 145 pounds. What advantage would adjusting my secondary like you said give? Coupling block protectors. Without trying to sound tooo dumb. What are they? Is the coupling block the 2 plastic{or rubber i'm not sure}{one on each side} that slide back and forth in that slot on the suspension rails?*
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Moving the clickers on the secondary just allows the belt to travel more.
Here's an excerpt from the Ski-Doo clutching bible. (http://www.mxzx-revzone.com/iq.htm). I don't have any of their products but they sure know what they are talking about.

1] Secondary Belt Height:
I like to have the chord of the belt showing on the outer dia of the secondary. If you look at the actual belt travel...The distance the belt travels towards the center from the clutch being closed to fully open, the belt travels only 1.25 inches approximately. So to think of it, if you have the capacity to go from 0mph to 100mph...The belt only travels that range of 1.25" in 100mph at 1:1 ratio. Would you not think that you would rather have approx 2mm of belt showing on secondary? 2mm=.080" Now you have ~1.30" to 1.33" of travel instead of ~1.25"
Benefits are:
i] 10% more belt movement from the engagement to top end.
ii] Extra time the belt can spend in the lowest ratio possible in the first 100 feet when you gas on it.


Yup, those are the protective coupling blocks on the rails that can be flipped. The two on the rear are the ones you want to flip. Some guys have have a problem with the sled doing worthless wheelies when they flip the coupling block protectors with the rear suspension set low. Fine tuning the suspension is something you'll have to play with when the blocks are flipped.

Thanks for the reply, I will try it out.