My track won't turn when I first start my sled. The other day it wouldn't even move when I revved up to 8k RPMs. It finally went and after that was fine. Once warmed the clutch typically engages around 4-5k RPM and I have no more problems.

My buddy told me that ice build-up can cause the track to "stick" when first firing up the sled. However, this again happen yesterday when it reached 40-some degrees in the Twin Cities. There was no ice or snow build-up visible in the track.

Any suggestions on what could be wrong? Bad clutch? Clutch needing adjustment?? Old belt???

The sled is a '97 600XC with a SLP extension and a paddle track.

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It most likely is now :D

The tracks can/will/do freeze to the suspension pretty easily. Everything is warm when you park it after a good work out. Snow caught inside the suspension around wheels and slides will melt a little before freezing again. The next time you ride, if you just get on and try to go.... well, it ain&#39;t gonna happen. Usually you&#39;ll smell rubber burning as your belt is permanently notched because it can&#39;t turn due to the frozen suspension.

When our sleds are left out, we will usually start the motor, keeping the revs down to a minimum, and rock the machine around standing on the running boards, maybe working the suspension up and down some while we are at it, as the motor warms a little. Then try to move the sled easily. If it won&#39;t, repeat the last step until it will...

The way to avoid, or minimize the risk, is to jack the back of the sled up off the ground when it&#39;s going to be there long enough to freeze.

Put a new belt on and break it in gently.

Normally when I am done sledding for the day and stop, I&#39;ll pick up and drop the rear of the sled a couple of times to shake free ice and snow in the suspension. Then I&#39;ll pick up the rear, or suspend it on a stand, and give some throttle and spin the track. You&#39;ll see a lot of snow and ice fire out the back and underneath. Then leave it on a track stand.

When I wanna go riding again, I&#39;ll do the same thing. Start the sled up, slam the rear of the sled up and down a couple of times, raise the track off the ground and slowly engage the track, which will limber up both the track and drivebelt. Be gentle on the machine when it&#39;s cold. Don&#39;t gun it right away, else you&#39;ll ruin the drivebelt sooner than later and maybe pop the pistons too.

Remember to make sure no-one is behind the machine when you raise the track off the ground and giving it throttle. You never know when a chunk of ice could go flying out and hit someone or something. This goes for yourself too, stand to the side.

I do use my weight to supress the rear suspension. Maybe I need to do a little more of the rocking and such.

However, to toss wrinkle into things. After riding 100 miles last week and having the track working well, I stopped for gas. When leaving the parking lot I drove up to the snow (about a six inch difference from pavement to snow). The skis were on the snow and the track up to the edge. When I hit the throttle the track didn&#39;t turn and I smelled something burning. I got off and lifted the sled over manually. This couldn&#39;t be an ice/freeze-up problem though, right?

are u sure that that paddle track isnt rubbing hardcore on the tunnel when riding????

Originally posted by IronRanger@Feb 3 2005, 09:34 AM
My track won&#39;t turn when I first start my sled. The other day it wouldn&#39;t even move when I revved up to 8k RPMs. It finally went and after that was fine. Once warmed the clutch typically engages around 4-5k RPM and I have no more problems.

My buddy told me that ice build-up can cause the track to "stick" when first firing up the sled. However, this again happen yesterday when it reached 40-some degrees in the Twin Cities. There was no ice or snow build-up visible in the track.

Any suggestions on what could be wrong? Bad clutch? Clutch needing adjustment?? Old belt???

The sled is a &#39;97 600XC with a SLP extension and a paddle track.
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You might be having a problem with your secondary clutch. Remove it and see if it moves freely by hand. Could be worn out buttons ,broken spring or binding. Try looking at your clutch as you move the sled ,see if the secondary is opening too soon, if it is it will be like driving a car from a dead stop in 4th gear. Something else to consider is track alignment make sure its running straight.Also make sure all the idler wheels are free and not seized.

Definitely a few areas to check. Thanks guys, I&#39;ll take a look at the sled this weekend and check those things.

Originally posted by IronRanger@Feb 3 2005, 01:38 PM
I do use my weight to supress the rear suspension. Maybe I need to do a little more of the rocking and such.

However, to toss wrinkle into things. After riding 100 miles last week and having the track working well, I stopped for gas. When leaving the parking lot I drove up to the snow (about a six inch difference from pavement to snow). The skis were on the snow and the track up to the edge. When I hit the throttle the track didn&#39;t turn and I smelled something burning. I got off and lifted the sled over manually. This couldn&#39;t be an ice/freeze-up problem though, right?
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SEE MY POST TITLED POLARIS 600XLT A FEW PAGES BACK. I HAD AN ISSUE W/ MY TRACK NOT MOVING WHEN LOADING ONTO A TILT TRAILER LAST WEEKEND, AS WELL. MAYBE THE REPLYS WILL HELP.

Any water in your gearcase? Possibly freezing on the cold nights. Wouldn&#39;t explain the problem you had going over the snow bank, but just an idea.

If clutch appears to be o.k. you might want to examine some other areas..........gear case /chain sprockets (gear wear, missing teeth, chain tension, etc). Also check your plastic drive sprocket damage. Is it possible that the drive sprockets could be spinning on the jack shaft? Not sure if yours has 2 or 4 sprockets but you should examine all of them.

...id put alot of money on this fix....

b4 your rides..pick up back end and drop it a couple times....its prob just ice buildup in skid

It might be ice you should try putting a junk of woodunder the back grab bar when you park it for the night. and it if thats not it might be but unlikely that the hyfax is worn out and the slide rails are sticking

track is maybe way too tight also

That&#39;s interesting. How to loosen or tighten the tension?

The rear-most axle has a bolt in each side holding it tight to the rails. Loosen those. THen, you will find on each side of the rails a long bolt parallel to the rails that points toward and pushes against the rear axle. These bolts are used to tension the track (by moving the rear axle rearward). To loosen the track, back off those bolts a bit, then take a rubber mallet or 2 x 4 and whack the rear of your track to bump the axle forward a bit. After your done, don&#39;t forget to retighten the bolts on each side of the axle or you&#39;ll lose your wheels!!

Originally posted by performancex@Feb 9 2005, 09:15 PM
track is maybe way too tight also
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Or way TOO loose with some worn out parts in that area.

I just briefly read this post but if your clutch seemed fine I would be looking at the track and the drive spockets.

just 2 cents from someone who is not an expert

You mention that it is a paddle track, you were riding in 40 degree weather in the Twin Cities. I think your major problem was/is minimum of track lubrication and slides melting to track. The belt you had or have is shot. Paddle tracks need more snow to lubricate then the 3/4 to 1 inch tracks. I would also make sure the track is not to tight as suggested.