I'm thinking about longtracking my 03 ProX 800. For the complete kit it will cost me 450. For a 1-1/4 ripsaw it will be 460. I'm I getting a good deal? What other tracks would you recommend?

I don't know about the prices and such, but I do know that the set-up you'll have will be pretty close to what my dream sled would be. I love my SKS, but there are certainly times when I need a bit more of a ditch-banger. A Pro-X with a 136 will be a really sweet, really fun sled to play around on.

I've done more than my share of conversions, and love the results for the most part. As far as pricing, guessing you are talking about a Polaris conversion kit for that kind of money? If so, wondering if you've checked out TracksUsa.com for pricing on both the track, and conversion parts? Bruce, the owner there, is very easy to speak with, will answer any questions you may have, and will not try to pressure you into one of his kits just because he sell them. Good people.

Originally posted by michahicks@Mar 28 2005, 01:44 PM
I've done more than my share of conversions, and love the results for the most part. As far as pricing, guessing you are talking about a Polaris conversion kit for that kind of money? If so, wondering if you've checked out TracksUsa.com for pricing on both the track, and conversion parts? Bruce, the owner there, is very easy to speak with,* will answer any questions you may have, and will not try to pressure you into one of his kits just because he sell them. Good people.
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The kits from tracksusa have exstensions and polaris kits are solid rail.
Is it really matter Michihicks? Which is better?
Also I'm doing this for drag racing traction, would a 1-1/4 ripsaw be the best for me?
thanks

I generally work on a bucks spent for bang received guideline. Been beating the daylights out of my extended sleds for 2 seasons now, and have nothing negative to report regarding them. The TracksUsa use hyfax the entire length of the rail, something SLP's don't allow. There are no durability issues with them. I've never even heard of any.

With the above in mind, I fail to understand why anyone would spend twice the amount required to do the same job.

I'm not into the racing thing. Guessing most of your decision would be based on the surface you were running on the most while racing, and the extra drag imposed by the deeper tread at top end. For hard pack and ice I would be inclined to go with the 1".

Michihicks, I will need to buy the rail exstension, tunnel exstension and longer heat exchangers correct?
Anything else I'm forgetting?

Also, what do you run for a track in your LT sleds?

thanks

Unless you are running in marginal conditions - A LOT, I would give the standard cooling a try. You can add more cooling later if you like.

I hate recommending any track in particular. The ones I've been using are a really aggressive 1 1/4" paddle/cone combo for trail and lake racing on unpacked surfaces. Not going to suit everyone. I don't even run studs. Next track will most likely be something like the Iceclaw. I have no need for studs really, but the safety factor would probably be worth what little extra it may cost over the Ripsaw.

You really should talk to Bruce at TracksUsa if you haven't yet. You can generally trust what he tells you. He works with this stuff every day.

Hey Michihicks, ordered a exstension kit today throught tracks usa. Exstension will cost me 187.00 compared to 450.00 and the track I found a Polaris 1.4 for 160 versus spending 460.00 on the ripsaw.
Tracks usa is the way to go!

Pricing like that kinda puts a whole new spin on things, don't it! :D

Hey michihicks, does the tunnel exstension mount on the inside or outside of the tunnel?
I have never long tracked before and tracks usa never sent any instructions!

Sorry sir, I'd be guessing. Don't remember. I do remember it fitting really nice. Have you tried lining it up to see if it's not obvious?

Yeah I lined it up, it mounts on the outside. I just was surprised to see that, polaris tunnel exstension mounted on the inside. It just does not look good at all on the outside. Then I found out a polaris tunnel exstension was $50 dollars cheaper! Oh well, its on now.
thanks michihicks

<<<Then I found out a polaris tunnel exstension was $50 dollars cheaper!>>>


I&#39;m used to GenII conversions. I was thinking the TracksUsa extension was something like 70.00 (not including plastic trim/side pieces from Polaris). No? What did you pay/what was included?

I paid 89.99 for just an exstension. Friend told me he buys his from polaris at around 38.

Don&#39;t have access to an Accesory catalog, so this is for a GenII SKS shown on Partsland.com&#39;s website this morning....

1012580-0671 PANEL,TUNNEL BACK 69.99.

Maybe wrong to post this here, but anyways.
I&#39;ve heard that (written in a snowmobile magazine, a dyno guy said it) the short-tracked (121") polaris 800 machines delivers in average about 5 horsepower more than the 800 with longer tracks. He didn&#39;t know why it was like that, and had looked into several engines to find out.

<<<the short-tracked (121") polaris 800 machines delivers in average about 5 horsepower more than the 800 with longer tracks>>>

Just about has to be a chassis dyno. There&#39;s no difference in the motors.... But I guess the factory calibration could be off that much - in stock form - between an SB/RMK and XP/Pro? I&#39;d hate to get into that one, so will assume your guy was talking of the results on a Chassis dyno.

I don&#39;t have a problem believing that. Lot&#39;s of theories. Taller lugs on the longer tracks are pumping more air in the top of the tunnel creating more drag. The extra weight of the long track comes in to play too.

I think anyone longtracking a sled that&#39;s not expecting SOME reduction in top end speed is not being realistic.

The real thing MOST guys are looking at when longtracking is better traction (in spades!) and better flotation/performance in the loose stuff... There is enough difference to easily justify the lost top end to many of us.

I know that you will loose power "to the ground" when longtracking a snowmobile since you get extra weight in the driveline, plus other factors.
This is the guys business homepage: http://www.m-performance.com/Sidor/Bromsbank.htm
And by the way he is a polaris fan :!: (read it in the magazine).
He also said that it&#39;s big differences between polaris 800 engines, and if he dynoed 10 engines he&#39;s sure it would be up to 10 hp difference in performance.
The dyno he use (right in pic):
[attachmentid=20810]
So then he is talkin about horsepowers out of engine, not on the track.

Taking a dyno reading from the pto side would be the same if I had a 121 track or a 136. I dont care what this guys says, longtracking a sled would not change dyno reading from the cranks pto.
If your going to post a website here please make sure it&#39;s in english. :cussing: Most of us are from the US and read in english, but thanks anyway. :D

Originally posted by ProXJC+May 3 2005, 01:53 AM-->Taking a dyno reading from the pto side would be the same if I had a 121 track or a 136.* I dont care what this guys says, longtracking a sled would not change dyno reading from the cranks pto.
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[/b]
What do you mean, I haven&#39;t said that you loose horsepower from crank when longtracking a sled, I said you loose power from the track, if you understand.


Originally posted by ProXJC@May 3 2005, 01:53 AM

If your going to post a website here please make sure it&#39;s in english. :cussing:
419617

Sorry, i just thought you maybe wanted to see some dynotests, or is it impossible since it&#39;s swedish text and maybe some letters that you don&#39;t have?

<!--QuoteBegin-ProXJC@May 3 2005, 01:53 AM
Most of us are from the US and read in english, but thanks anyway. :D
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:cussing: :cussing: :cussing: :D hehe
I found that one test of a viper with some mods is translated into english :!:
http://www.m-performance.com/Sidor/dyno_yamaha_viper_eng.htm

I&#39;m not following the point of your question. In one note you say:

<<<So then he is talkin about horsepowers out of engine, not on the track>>>

Then, in your most recent note you say:

<<<What do you mean, I haven&#39;t said that you loose horsepower from crank when longtracking a sled, I said you loose power from the track, if you understand.>>>

????????

Are we agreed that with a crank dyno in place, the drive system, including the track, is not turning?

From what I understand, there ARE 2 different development teams calibrating sleds for production. The SKS/Switchback and RMK calibrations are done by a seperate team, not the same team the XC calibration is done by. We know they are using different VES valve springs, and I don&#39;t know this for a fact, but would say it&#39;s a pretty good bet that the carb calibrations are slightly different also. This could account for a slight variation, but 10 hp? I don&#39;t think so.

You made me read wrong michahicks :bash:
This dyno guy measures on crank, not track. As you can see.

I just have to say I don&#39;t have english as my first language, as you may have noticed :undercover: not kidding.
So I don&#39;t know what a chassis dyno is, but from what michahicks said about losing power when longtracking, I expected that it mounts to the track (the thing that tuches(?) snow).
So I just tried to answer to ProXJC respond(?).
I thought he meant me.
As the dyno guy said it&#39;s big differences between a long track (example: rmk) and a short track (example: pro). And he don&#39;t know why.


And yes we are agreed, with a crank dyno, the drive system, including track, is not turning.

I said up to 10 hp difference between 10 different machines.

What&#39;s this dude on Michihicks? :dazed:

Thanks for the english version Kennyman :thumbsup:

<<<What&#39;s this dude on Michihicks? >>>

I was thinking there&#39;s a misunderstanding here somewhere. Can&#39;t blame him for the differences in language though.

<<<As the dyno guy said it&#39;s big differences between a long track (example: rmk) and a short track (example: pro). And he don&#39;t know why.>>>

The engines themselves are identical across all the models. The Pro is down a couple of horsepower due to a pipe design problem (that&#39;s why so many people replace them with SLP singles). Some say the design problem may be costing 2-3 hp - but only on the Pro7/8. Any differences in the rest of the models would be due to calibration differences as explained in the earlier note - carbs/ignition/VES valve springs (or production tolerances?). All this actually has nothing to do with the actual length of the track.

Originally posted by ProXJC@May 4 2005, 01:31 AM
What&#39;s this dude on Michihicks?* :dazed:
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Who do you mean, me or him, me or him :hallo1:

michahicks should we agree that it&#39;s just calibration difference, since you say so and I don&#39;t have a better suggestion.
Needles in carbs, ves spring, but ignition I don&#39;t know.

If I remember right the dyno guy said some parts is different, but I don&#39;t remember which parts. I&#39;l check it and let you know.

It was the ignition and airfilter (partnumber), I don&#39;t know if he only means the filter, or the box.

That would make sense Kennyman, but now I&#39;m curious. Which one made more power, and which machines were being compared?

It was the shorttracked (121") polaris that made most power, and it was only the shorttracked in general "against" the polaris with longer tracks.

If you want I could translate and post the whole test (they put on some slp pipes and more on a 2004 polaris pro) and here the dyno guy said this stuff we have discussed. If I do this you also will get to see the rest of the test. But it&#39;s more than two sentences so it would take some time before I&#39;m finished. Let me know if I should post this. Hope it&#39;s legal :lookaround: Great magazine by the way, now it should be legal :D

I have ProX with the $500+ solid 136" rail kit from Polaris. I bought it that way and works great.

I&#39;m going to take it out to 151" this summer with the bolt on 121"-136" rail extensions from Tracksusa. For the little extra money i&#39;m going with the offsets so I can run 8" wheels on the rear axle. Think its POL-108.