Tracks........? [Archive] - Snowmobile World : Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

: Tracks........?


snowmutt
05-21-2005, 06:09 AM
Well the leaf has been turned, as of mon i start my new job. With this change i get a sign on bonus and my rev will be here in 3wks w00t :inlove: . When my baby gets home here ill be morfing it to a gade . My ? is , would a 136x15x1.5 fully cliped track be a good choice for a 05 500 ss ?. I had a 136x1.25 every 3rd window 6 pitch on my 00 500 and loved it . The reason im asking is i found the 1.5 track cheaper than the 1.25, but woundering if it would be to much for it. Which is better full clipped or every 3rd ? Ill will be going with a 6 pitch design no matter what , i loved the way it bites and pulls through the deep stuff.
yes, ill be dropping a tooth also when i make the swap .
Our riding style is 60/40 (ditch banging / groomed trails). Im not worried about top end , i want more low end grunt 0-60 is my sweet spot . I would just go with the 1.25 cuz i know it worked awsome on my zx ,but im watching the $$ since im going to be morfing 2 revs into gades this yr .Im really leaning towrards the 1.5 for the good price and a bit more in lug size , but ! would i be killing myself for the bigger lug ?
Im also thinking the fully clipped track would help in hyfax wear and cooling benifits .Ive herd that they have less rolling resitance than the every 3rd window tracks also. What are your thoughts ?

Thanks ,

Octane
05-21-2005, 10:34 AM
A 1.5" track is too tall for groomed trails. Unless you ride in the mountains, you dont need a 1.5".
A 1.25 will work just fine for ditchbanging/groomed trails. The longer skid should greatly improve your traction and should give you the added 0-60 performance you are after.
Octane

yammyman
05-21-2005, 04:35 PM
i use a 1.5 on groomed and i love it, i think i only tore a couple lugs off

CORY9
05-21-2005, 04:56 PM
Is it cheaper to modify a Rev into a 'gade' or just buy one?? I think that's what your doing? Just curious.

snowmutt
05-21-2005, 07:21 PM
Originally posted by CORY9@May 21 2005, 06:56 PM
Is it cheaper to modify a Rev into a 'gade' or just buy one?? I think that's what your doing? Just curious.
421056


The whole reason im morfing to a gade is i want a gade but not the H.O mill. If doo made a 500ss gade i would buy it, I want the 500ss mill (rock soild mill).

I was really thinking of the 1.5, but after mulling it around ill probly end up w/ 1.25 . i did really like my zx w/ 1.25 . It was the price on the 1.5 that had me going . We doo run into alot of low snow areas here in mi and i really wont like seeing lugs missing after all the work and money spent .Just SNOW4MYDOO will have to work some ot for her track :lmao:

OK ANOTHER ?/ fully clipped?? or every 3rd window ?
Isnt the fully clipped better for rolling resestance . or is it a hand off w/ wt differance . the fully clipped is apox 3lbs heavier than the 3rd window track . isnt that why doo went to the 3rd window track ?

JasonF
05-21-2005, 07:51 PM
My Gade track (1.75 lug) is fully clipped as is my bros Gade with the 1.25 lug track. I've had both styles of tracks, my Ripsaw had every third closed, and really have never notice a difference. I makes sense that there would be more lube with the fully clipped design but I never notice more or less where with either.

As far as a 1.5 on trail, I think you would love it. I ride my 1.75 off trail all day and then as soon as night falls we hit the trails. The track hooks up awsome on the trail but does have some vibration due to the lug size. This may not even be an issue for the 1.5. With the right gearing the 500ss will have plenty of power for the Gade 1.5 gade conversion.
Good luck J

snowmutt
05-22-2005, 06:59 AM
well since this track thing has been on my mind alot . I also was wondering about the rear axle wheels. Should i go to a bigger wheel than stock ? Iwant to go all blk idlers for the look ,but would the bigger wheels be better for the hyfax issues the revs already have? not to mention strtching it 7 1/2" . I dont want to put a 3rd set of idlers towrards the back . I like to open look , makes it look longer than it is .
Basiclly the gade conversion is the only major mod im going to do to it other then the grafics to make it one of a kind . Theres so many ideas to choose from im just trying to get the list together and get ordering so when i get the sled i can get to work . Basiclly when it comes home its getting stripped down to the chassi and mill, then start building it back together w/ the mods .
JASONF: you live in my neck of the woods . Do you know of anyone that anodize,s alum in the area thats reasonable ? im thinking of doing my rails while its out.

JasonF
05-22-2005, 04:52 PM
Originally posted by snowmutt@May 22 2005, 08:59 AM
JASONF: you live in my neck of the woods . Do you know of anyone that anodize,s alum in the area thats reasonable ? im thinking of doing my rails while its out.
421096


Sorry, I don't but that would be a great idea. Let me know if you find someone, I might do mine. :wink:

michahicks
05-23-2005, 05:49 PM
The fully clipped tracks are required for runing the extrovert drive wheels - not something you'll likely be needing with the sled you are talking about. Same with the large rear idlers. If you like the looks of them, and can afford the switch, go for it. But to justify their expense will take a little bit, at least in my opinion.

Glad to see you are back on the 1.25 lugs as preferred. Are you going to have trouble getting used to a sled that will NOT slide the back end around in the corners?

snowmutt
05-24-2005, 07:17 PM
Originally posted by michahicks@May 23 2005, 07:49 PM
The fully clipped tracks are required for runing the extrovert drive wheels - not something you'll likely be needing with the sled you are talking about.* Same with the large rear idlers. If you like the looks of them, and can afford the switch, go for it. But to justify their expense will take a little bit, at least in my opinion.

Glad to see you are back on the 1.25 lugs as preferred. Are you going to have trouble getting used to a sled that will NOT slide the back end around in the corners?
421234


Thanks for the info on the fully clipped skin. I was just thinking while i had it apart to put the bigger wheels on. Thought it would help out a issue rev,s are having w/ rear hyfax wear thats been mention this past yr on the sc-3,s. Plus if im making it even longer ?and i dont want to put extra idlers in it .

ill be going w/ a 1.25 6 pitch design i loved it on my zx 500.
Not sliding around ?? my zx would hang out in the cornners i loved it , but when you wanted it to rail them it would . I notice it would want to walk the back out from time to time (not the side to side wash ). More of a digging push feel ,but still have control in the front .

snow4brains
05-24-2005, 09:09 PM
mutt: I think it was the SC4's that some had wear issues with.

I've got 1700 miles on the original sc3 hyfax and they still look good, even with all the low snow riding this season.

When I researched the "all open" versus "3rd closed" last season, most thought the 3rd closed held the snow/ice in better, making it better in low snow conditions. I tried to keep an eye on skids this season, and it seemed like the sleds running 3rd closed had more snow/ice buildup on the skid frames then the all open sleds had, when riding in low snow. That may not mean a whole lot since there were all different kinds of sleds, and rider weights, etc etc.. But thats what it seemed like.

michahicks
05-25-2005, 08:09 AM
I asked about sliding through the corners because I enjoy it, and find I am much more comfortable when that's an option when entering a corner way faster than I should have - for whatever reason. Seems like I can use that slide to scrub off a ton of speed if necessary - RIGHT NOW. I FEEL like I can go faster that way. Not sure I really am. My experience with the 1.25x136's is that they WILL NOT slide - at all. I miss that, and consider it a drawback with that setup - but that's the only one. I love it otherwise. Thought I would throw that out for your consideration.

snowmutt
05-26-2005, 03:50 PM
hummm , michahicks all i know is when i had my zx w/ the 1.25 x136 i could grab some brake and pitch in a 180 and let it rip on a groomed trail .I couldnt do that on the 121. Must be my wt ?im just a bean at 130# that might have some effect. After the feel of the 1.25 /136 off trail i want another one .Hope it has the same effect on the rev chassi . 80%of my riding is ditchbanging/off trail. I just use the trails to get food and gas .

Thanks snow4brains for the insight . Im going to go with what doo runs (every 3rd ) . i guess if theres a wear problem after i get some mi,s on it ill change the wheels. With me being so light i might not have any issues anyhow time will tell.

rob7374
05-27-2005, 06:56 AM
I'd go with the 1.5 if it were me. A lot of guys around here run big lug snow cross tracks all winter long. Top end suffers but the hook up is unreal. I'd also be doing more than just dropping one tooth. At least 2 if i were you. As for fully clipped or every 3rd window. Well the fully clipped will be heavier. I got a fully clipped track on mine and I really never noticed any difference in performance vs a every 3rd window clipped track. My REV eats sliders irregardless.

rob7374
05-27-2005, 07:00 AM
Originally posted by snowmutt@May 22 2005, 08:59 AM
.
JASONF: you live in my neck of the woods . Do you know of anyone that anodize,s alum in the area thats reasonable ? im thinking of doing my rails while its out.
421096

Check with any shop that repairs aluminum car and truck wheels. Many of them also do anodizing for the wheels. At least a few around here do. They should be able to hook you up.

snowmutt
05-27-2005, 07:42 AM
Hay thanks rob , I really was thinking of the 1.5 but i dont want to tear lugs off . I can get a 1.5 for 75 bucks cheaper than the 1.25 thats why im hashing it around . Plus if im going to do both ride s thats a big chunk of change to spend on the other goodies i need . As for the hyfax wear , where are you wearing them out at ? Ive hurd its at the back on the sc-3,s . From what the romors are saying is that doo missed on the milling for the back axle in the rails and the hyfax will wear almost to the wear line before the wheels take the wt off the rails ? It just depends on how the rail ext fit it might help it out or make it worse . In the end were talking no more than a 1/8 "-3/16ths to make right and not have to change hyfax every 3rd trip out. We do run in low snow conds around here sometimes in and out of high traffic areas.
I plan on going down 1 tooth so i dont have to buy a new chain right off the bat and go from there . My 500 was dropped 1 down and it was great . i only lost 5mph on top and pulled good out of the hole . The ss has the same stock gearing as my 500 did . The ss is 100cc,s more so i think 1 tooth would be ok to start with. Im going to call around and see what i can find on the anodizing and see what i find .Maybe i can get a good deal on a bulk order and get a few of us in the area to put a batch together for a better deal .

rob7374
05-27-2005, 08:25 AM
Originally posted by snowmutt@May 27 2005, 09:42 AM
As for the hyfax wear , where are you wearing them out at ? Ive hurd its at the back on the sc-3,s .
Mine have no noticeable wear pattern. They just wear out right from the front to the back. When I changed the sliders last summer I inspected the rails, idlers, and track clips and all was perfect. I put on almost 1900 miles this winter and we had the most snow we've had in a long long time. I'm almost through to the rails almost all the way. I really don't worry too much about it. Sliders are cheap and I beat thew hell out of my sled.