Hey AC groupies! Looking for the AC instructions for installing the reverse kit on my ZR. I know it fits becasue I took all the parts off a 96 580 EXT (same chassis) just a different shifter then the 97. Now, when I took the parts off I took digital pictures showing each gear location and whatnot... problem, can't find the darn pics anywhere on my PC's! :bash:
If you happen to have it kicking around, maybe scan it or take a digital pic (close up) of the instructions for me please!!

Thanks... trees are turning color and getting cold at night, mmmmm fall! :thumbsup:

SWRules

I used the exploded drawings from Browns web site when I put mine on, I diid find some basic instructions/hints somewhere, I,ll see If i can find anything, but its been a couple years.

Todd

http://www.brownsleisureworld.com/Parts/Images/0731/0731-895_s.gif

Thanks Todd. I have that diagram here, I guess it's the hints that I'm looking for! lol
Anything to make putting all those pieces in that case and make it work easier!

I'm in the process of getting a push/pull control cable from a shop I use to work at (Ontario Control Cables), should elimimate the shifter and drilling a hole for the shifter arm in the plastic. This way I could mount it down low or even mount it on the front side of the steering column and pull up with a T handle. Just have to install the kit and see how long of cable I need with the amount of travel the shifter has to move.
Keep all posted!! :thumbsup:

If you take that drawing and actually take the time to single out each shaft you should be able to put it together by the drawing. #5-14 are all the bottom shaft and sprockets and go together in that order. Start with chaincase (far right) slid the seal on top of the bearing then the bearing into the chaincase then the rataining bracket over and tighten the 3 nuts using the regular locnuts. Do this to the top bearing as well. same Idea. The smaller diam bearign goes on top. Make sure you put the seals on the inside of the bearings and outside as well. There is 2 different size locknuts that you should have with the kit.. the "shorter" ones go on the top bearing retainer the regular size ones go on the bottom retainer. Then slide the shim washer on next #5 then the bearing #32 then the inside sprocket assembly. This should be all together (#'s 35-38) as a unit. As your sliding the inside lower sprocket assembly on you will want to also slide on the top sprocket and the middle sprocket assemblys at the same time all as a unit. both of which is pretty easily done if you look at the pic. Everything should be tightened snuggly and you should use locktight on all the sprocket bolts. Then slid #6 on as in the pic then the outer sprocket (#'s 7-10) assembly. Then you have a spring and the end gear/whatever it is (# 12) then the bolts. Some models do not have a seperat bolt here the outer gear race is the bolt too. If this is the case you will need a 1/2 inch hex wrench to tighten it. Thats the lower shaft assembly.

Hope this helps a little. If you print the pic as big as you can and just kinda pay attention to it you should be fine. Good luck.

Thanks JT.
I went through the parts list last night, everything is in order now, Should go smooth.
Just have to get the drive adapter now. My AC has nut on the end of the lower drive shaft, the kit came with a bolt. So my dealer has ordered one for me.
Looking forward to not pulling this pig off the trailer this winter. And the clean no shifter in sight will be nice too!

i can't see how using a cable will work? yea it will go into reverse by pulling it, but how will it shift the gears back into forward? i have reverse on my sled and it sometimes takes a bit of force/coaxing to shift back into forward. your not going to release the cable and have the gears just drop back into place. sometimes it can be kind of fussy going back into forward. if the gears don't mess back together smoothly they chew up the reverse gear teeth. i just can't see a spring assisted cable system being to gear friendly.

It's a push/pull cable! Think of it like a steering cable for a jet ski... same thing. Very strong cable, but I have to fab some solid mounts for the cable. I don't want to cut the plastic to run the shifter out, besides, I think I would be bashing my knee on it! So going to mount it somewhere else.
150 pounds of push and 400 pounds of pull... should work fine!

ok i see now what your after with in terms of the cable set up.

really the handles only a small 1/2 hole and the lever isn't going to be in the way of your knee or steering. hell i'm 6'0 and long legged i never hit my knee on it once. but the frickin pull rope handle :cussing: son of a beach designer that put the pull handle there should have a few studded hole shots across his ###.

one other though i'd be concerned with is moisture freezing in the cable?

My Polaris has a cable activated reverse lever. It is mounted on the bars and works perfect. Just grab it with your hand, flip it up and your in reverse, tap it and your back in forward. Very clean and simple. You may want at look at the Polaris setup (98 XLT tripple - evolved chassis) for ideas.

Much easier to use than the models with the mechanical lever sticking out of the cowl.

I sure wish AC would put and electronic reverse on!!